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over heating is it goosed

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Well gave the octavia a wash and polish today, first time in ages, drove about 20 miles at 40,50,60 mph roads all OK. Then popped out later on to pick my daughter up from work and after 5 miles of 30 mph driving the overheating warning light comes on and the temp gauge is full hot :wall:

So turned it off check oil and water all OK, coolant hoses hot but no hotter than normal, let it cool down, collected daughter and drove the 5 miles back home the car drove fine, had no loss of power or rough running, the temp gauge did go full hot near home with accompanying warning light.  

Checked with a sniffer kit all OK, pressure tested cooling system holding 7 psi with the engine off, with the engine running there was no movement on the pressure gauge when reving the engine so I'm thinking water pump impeller has failed???? would this indicate WP as some cars don't show movement on the gauge but most do. 

After this I left it running but with my prodding and poking around I pushed the CTS near the head and coolant sprayed out(ouch burnt my wrist a bit) then pressure jumped up to 10 psi and the cooling fans came on temp gauge at 3/4 and just kept on rising. So now I'm thinking Head gasket :sweat:

Any ideas or tests to confirm guys? If HG has gone what kind of a job is it? any idea of parts cost? (yes I would do WP and timing belt), any special tools required?

Problem is I just don't have a massive amount of time spare at the moment just 1 day off this week and 1 next week, also SWMBO will be on my ass about how long it takes. If all else fails might book it in at a garage any ideas of rough cost I could expect to pay? 

Morale of the story never wash your car  :giggle:

Sounds like water pump or possibly Thermostat stuck closed...

Was the rad hot?

When mine went recently..rad was stone cold..

But temp rocketed when giving it beans...,

Dead easy to check,,,remove thermostat and poke you finger left to see if you can spin the water pump impeller.. Obviously when cold!

  • Author

Hope its water pump as I've been meaning to get round to doing the cambelt. Doubt its thermostat as both rad hoses where hot and the pipes to the matrix where hot to.

No I doubt it's the thermostat...

Head gasket failure isn't common either..but waster pumps.....well...

To check the waterpump...

Remove coolant reservoir cap

Have someone start the engine and hold the revs at 2500rpm

Look inside the coolant reservoir. You should see a steady stream from the coolant return pipe.

Dont drive it and get the water pump seen to.  Probably in pieces

  • Author

Gonna try tomorrow after work see if I can get the thermostat off and check the water pump, I do hope it's this I can get a WP and TB kit and do it all on Thursday when I'm off. 

Gonna try tomorrow after work see if I can get the thermostat off and check the water pump, I do hope it's this I can get a WP and TB kit and do it all on Thursday when I'm off.

You don't need to remove the thermostat - see post #6
  • Author

AH will try this rwbaldwin if my exhaust wasn't so loud I'd try it now  :giggle:

Sounds like water pump failure. Do as rwbaldwin suggests. Removing the return pipe & holding it over the open headtank while revving the engine makes it easier to see the flow.

  • Author

pulled the top pipe this morning and warmed up to half way reved to 2500rpm nothing coming out of pipe. So think WP is the fault.2rhw8k5.jpg

This is the right pipe?

It's the waterpump. Your poking around was pretty conclusive anyway. When you caused a leak, the radiator fan came on, so the thermostat, radiator (and associated hoses), thermo-switch and fan are all OK.

  • Author

So that was the right pipe ? Think I'm gonna get a local indie to do it as I'm pushed for time at the moment.

Yes, that's the right pipe although you didn't need to take it off. If your cambelt change is due soon, you might consider doing it at the same time.

Water pump is goosed then. I suggested taking the return pipe as it's easier to see the flow, or lack of it. I agree with rwbaldwin be daft not to do a cambelt kit at the same time.,

  • Author

Going to book it in for cambelt kit, WP, thermostat (as it's done 90k) and aux belt while it's off.

Been quoted £380 all in at Autotechnica in Hull. Sounds reasonable to me as cambelt kit is £140, WP £40, thermostat £10 so labour is less than £200 and saves me a load of stress.

Result it's not the head gasket!

You have probably made the right choice it getting someone else to do it...it's a PITA.

:)

Going to book it in for cambelt kit, WP, thermostat (as it's done 90k) and aux belt while it's off.

Been quoted £380 all in at Autotechnica in Hull. Sounds reasonable to me as cambelt kit is £140, WP £40, thermostat £10 so labour is less than £200 and saves me a load of stress.

 

I've never had to pay more than £260 all in.

  • Author

£260 is cheap wish I could get it done for that Pauldazzle. That's what I thought Swedey and with the forecast for next few nights been -2 didn't fancy been in the garage freezing my ass off.

Shop around a bit, but make sure they have the correct tools & don't use the Tipex & hope method..  Sometimes VAG dealers even do a price match for cambelt changes & servicing.

Dont forget to ask for a metal impella water pump..

:)

Remember the tensioner to. :)

  • Author

Dropped car off tonight it's having full cambelt kit including tensioner and idler. WP is genuine skoda part. Spoke to the garage and he said WP should be changed every time belt is changed to avoid it breaking. I have to agree as its cambelt driven, not worth risking it. They're a VAG specialist so use the proper locking tools.

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