Hello all,

Decided to take the car off the road for a week to get the master cylinder sorted along with all the other niggles.

Today, I drained the cooling system using the bleed valve on the radiator.Then replace with new g12. Then bleed the system with the pressure cap off and the heaters on full blast.

Thing is the radiator isn't getting hot, not even warm. The pump seams to be working as collent is coming back into the resivor. The top pipe is getting hot but the one coming out of the bottom is staying cold. Left the engine ruinning for 20 minutes or so but couldn't get the temperature needle so go above the standard 90 degrees.

Is there anything I can try, is it a case of the thermostat not opening?

Is it worth giving the system a full flush?

Thanks in advance

Russ

remove thermostat? if its not there it cant be causing a prob?

Didn't think the engine would reach 90 when it's not moving anyways? Mine never has

Didn't think the engine would reach 90 when it's not moving anyways? Mine never has

Not in this weather mine was half way to warm today,i stopped at idle for a few minutes & the needle dropped back to quarter.

remove thermostat? if its not there it cant be causing a prob?

 

After looking at the haynes i was kind of thinking the same as the thermostat on the vRS seams to be made up of numrous parts that can be removed, rather than a sealed unit. My only other experiance of a car based thromostat going wrong was on my brother in laws Corsa Turbo, where it was a case of taking the whole unit off and throwing it in a tub of boiling water to see if it opened.

 

My current map has launch mode on, so it was just a case of using a house brick on the throttle to keep the engine at a steady 2400rpm. With the b;ower not on hot it's easy to get to 90 on the drive but even if it wasn't surely the rad should at least get warm?!?

 

Please excuse my noobness but this is the first car i have owned. I passed my bike test at 17 and had bikes ever since. I like my cage but i do miss my R6.

 

Cheers

 

Russ

After looking at the haynes i was kind of thinking the same as the thermostat on the vRS seams to be made up of numrous parts that can be removed, rather than a sealed unit. My only other experiance of a car based thromostat going wrong was on my brother in laws Corsa Turbo, where it was a case of taking the whole unit off and throwing it in a tub of boiling water to see if it opened.

 

My current map has launch mode on, so it was just a case of using a house brick on the throttle to keep the engine at a steady 2400rpm. With the b;ower not on hot it's easy to get to 90 on the drive but even if it wasn't surely the rad should at least get warm?!?

 

Please excuse my noobness but this is the first car i have owned. I passed my bike test at 17 and had bikes ever since. I like my cage but i do miss my R6.

 

Cheers

 

Russ

A Diesel will not get hot on tick over, you need to run it, and taking a thermostat out will make it worse.

 

Radiotwo

A Diesel will not get hot on tick over, you need to run it, and taking a thermostat out will make it worse.

 

Radiotwo

So even though the coolent is getting hot, the rad will still stay cold, this is normal?

 

Cheers

 

Russ

Yes

Thats the job of the thermostat. Water only circulates through the radiator when the thermostat opens.

Nothing to worry about. Aslong as temp sits at 90 degrees then its nothing to worry about

Yes

Thats the job of the thermostat. Water only circulates through the radiator when the thermostat opens.

Nothing to worry about. Aslong as temp sits at 90 degrees then its nothing to worry about

 

Ah right thanks for clearing that up. Just seemed weird that the coolant was getting hot but not the radiator. Out of interest, at what temperature should the thermostat open and let water into the radiator?

 

Cheers

 

Russ

Im not sure

It depends on the car but i think 88-92 is normal

VAG cars are strange as the temp needle is programme to sit at 90 and the actual temp could be anything from about 85 to nearly 100