So this is a new one. Only started at the weekend.

 

TSI Manual - 2,500 Miles

 

Occasionally, around 2000rpm (in gear) there is a vibration noise coming from somewhere by the drivers right foot. The exact location is hard to pinpoint while driving, but this is where is sounds like it is coming from. 

 

It happens more often 'off throttle' whilst the revs are dropping from 3000 to 1000 RPM (whilst in gear). The vibration only happens between 2000 and 1000. 

 

My feeling is that the noise may be caused by the sound actuator (the vibration noise occurs in both normal and sport mode). I would describe the noise like having a screw rattle around on a plastic plate at a high frequency.

 

Has anyone else encountered this?

Hi!

Did you ever find the cause of the problem?

I'm having the exact same issue with mine.

 

I have a 2.0 TDI Manual.

I got a vibrating noise on my Octy 3 around 1200rpm, which wasn't there above or below those revs. Took the garage a while to find it & it turned out to be 2 air con pipes vibrating together. They moved them slightly apart and put some sponge rubber between them for good measure. Never heard since. The pipes in question were clearly visible on the right side of the engine bay. Might not be same problem but if you open the bonnet & get someone to keep the revs about that level you will clearly hear it if it's the same problem.

I had something very similar when I first got mine and it was the drivers knee airbag. The garage just tightened the nuts up and it has been no problem ever since (about 20 months).

This is the problem that I have: https://youtu.be/Rq6MAlggOw4

 

I took the car to the garage and left it there for 5 days, they disassembled the whole dashboard and supposedly found and fixed the problem. 3 months later it's back, worse than ever!

 

I'm taking it back... again.

It sounds like the infamous fuel line rattle. The lines (two lines, black and white) is located underneath front passenger side ( for LHD car) or driver side (for RHD car).

 

Mine came back with vengeance last weekend, I decided to tackle it myself, one just need to remove the plastic pan underneath the car with 10mm socket and T25 bits. There is no deadening or insulation material between the lines and the metal panel. I stuffed (hopefully) enough insulation material to fix the lines in place and dampen the vibration. So far so good 

It sounds like the infamous fuel line rattle. The lines (two lines, black and white) is located underneath front passenger side ( for LHD car) or driver side (for RHD car).

 

Mine came back with vengeance last weekend, I decided to tackle it myself, one just need to remove the plastic pan underneath the car with 10mm socket and T25 bits. There is no deadening or insulation material between the lines and the metal panel. I stuffed (hopefully) enough insulation material to fix the lines in place and dampen the vibration. So far so good 

 

 

I think mine may be this...

 

How high do you need to jack the thing up to remove the panel and gain access?

I fully extended the standard trolley jack, I like to have plenty of space as I'm a little bit awkward while working upside down. I didn't completely remove the pan to save times, plenty of space to access the fuel lines. 

This is the problem that I have:

I took the car to the garage and left it there for 5 days, they disassembled the whole dashboard and supposedly found and fixed the problem. 3 months later it's back, worse than ever!

I'm taking it back... again.

You had the whole dashboard disassembled for what?? A rattle. That kind of surgery on a car leads to more problems I'm afraid

I fully extended the standard trolley jack, I like to have plenty of space as I'm a little bit awkward while working upside down. I didn't completely remove the pan to save times, plenty of space to access the fuel lines. 

 

Thanks mate - so you can just remove a few of the bolts to gain access rather than pulling the whole thing off?

You still need to remove most of the bolts. I removed six out of seven hex bolts plus the torx bolt. You should be able to push the pan down and access the fuel lines. 

You still need to remove most of the bolts. I removed six out of seven hex bolts plus the torx bolt. You should be able to push the pan down and access the fuel lines. 

 

I rang the dealer and they are looking at it tomorrow!

 

So:

 

It was the fuel line and the dealer sorted it in about 45 minutes whilst I waited.

 

For future reference, the symptoms were a metallic rattle/clicking which varied in volume depending on situation and emanated from around the driver side area.

 

It was most noticeable and most easily reproduced at around 2100RPM in either 2nd or 3rd and became louder when the engine was under load at this RPM - either going up hill or engine braking downhill.