Seriously! I'm going to start a new topic tilted 'I find it hard to open my glove box'.

There is nothing wrong with your car! Please don't waste your dealers time in this.

 

Others are finding the boot lid easy to close. Why should I be satisfied then with slamming it hard two or three times before it locks properly? To save my dealer some time? You got to be joking. I guess your preference would be slamming it like an old van instead. Even a grown up finds it very unpleasant if someone slams the trunk so imagine how it must be to a newborns ear!

 

To me it would be irresponsible not to get it fixed!

Edited 11 December, 201312 yr by PekoSI

Some had it on the mk2 and dealers adjusted the rubber stops.

Seriously! I'm going to start a new topic tilted 'I find it hard to open my glove box'.

There is nothing wrong with your car! Please don't waste your dealers time in this.

If it's not a problem than why would someone of seriously opened the topic... I have this issue, and it's not down to particularity. It is a nuisance...

No - in fact I'd say it was the opposite.  It's too easy to slam, feels like someone is trying to destroy the car when swmbo "closes" the boot.

 

Though to be fair I don't think gentle is in her vocabulary.

Its the catalyst for many a heated debate when SWMBO (mine) can't attenuate the force necessary to do this in an unpressurised vessel e.g. when sunroof or another door is open.

 

I sometimes think that volume and pitch correlate inversely with IQ in these circumstances. 

My estate locks just perfect. No need of slamming.

Just hope they don't include this motorised shutting in the new Scout.  My dog could have got in and out so many times by the time the bloody thing closes...except when he gets out he hides under the car and goes "limp" like one of Dali's clocks (yes, Clocks).  Needs to be dragged from underneath risking further scratches to valance  and bumper.  Call me a Luddite, but some things should remain as options rather than being foisted on you in the neverending "spec arms race".

Either Clarkson's reading my "column" or I'm turning into a grumpy old man...

Others are finding the boot lid easy to close. Why should I be satisfied then with slamming it hard two or three times before it locks properly? To save my dealer some time? You got to be joking. I guess your preference would be slamming it like an old van instead. Even a grown up finds it very unpleasant if someone slams the trunk so imagine how it must be to a newborns ear!

 

To me it would be irresponsible not to get it fixed!

I have to slam the boot of my new-to-me vRS estate too. Don't like treating cars this way so might investigate scope for adjustment this weekend. It's usually only shifting a latch plate within its slots or something of the sort. If others' boots close easily then mine can be persuaded, I hope!

Please post your findings. My dealer had a look at it last week and confirmed it really is 'slightly harder' to close than normal but at the same time tried to persuade me it's ok to slam it just to get rid off me I guess. We agreed that they will 'ask around' what can be done and get back to me 

Mine is easy too, no slamming needed at all.

Though at 4000 miles it has developed bad vibration through the car from the engine/transmission (2.0 TDi 150). My Ocatvia 2 and Fabia 1 vRS felt a lot better built than this Ocatvia 3.

Had a go at the "difficult to close without slamming" boot lid today and adjusted the latch plate slightly. Now closes with what I regard as sensible pressure. At the risk of boring all in sight, the procedure is as follows.

 

Remove plastic trim plate from sill at rear of boot. There are two circular fasteners on the front face of the trim plate and these are visible above the boot floor. They are of the expanding type, so prise centre "button" out a few mm then almost completely unscrew that centre button by hand. That will release the outer clip which can then be pulled out. Further two fasteners visible once you lift the boot floor and these are straighforward Torx (T25) to be unscrewed. Trim plate now has to be released upward against four invisible metal spring clips. I succeeded by levering gently upward at the end of the trim plate using the car body/rubber seal as the fulcrum. One of those jobs where you think you are about to break everything in sight, but it does come with a bit of determination and care. The latch is now exposed, but I then manoeuvred off (did I really have to?) a black plastic cover plate around the latch striker. The latch plate itself is secured by two T45 Torx screws and helpfully has gradations marked on two axes at each end around the screws so it's easy to see when you've moved the plate a little. I released these screws slightly until I could shift the plate towards the rear of the car. After a few practice shuttings I had moved the latch plate by about one gradation. Reassembly is the reverse process except you need to fold the boot lid rubber seal over the edge of the trim plate before clipping the plate back in place.

 

I work pretty slowly on these things for fear of breaking or losing something, but it was no more than 20 minutes to get the boot to shut cleanly without slamming. If I find it rattles I'll have to eat my words, but fingers crossed!

Sounds pretty straight forward this. I just might give it a try tomorrow as well without breaking anything hopefully    My dealer was of no use anyway so far. Too bad you didn't take any pictures though but I think it shouldn't be too much of a hassle judging from what you wrote.

 

Just a few questions:

1. ''...prise center button out a few mm...'' - Do you have to unscrew it from start or it can be pulled out a few mm with a knife or similar?

2. Did you 'unclip' (raised) the trim using just your hands or some flat tool maybe?

3. The clips that hold the trim in place - to which part are they fixed to? Plastic trim or the body? 

4. That other plastic cover around the latch - are you saying it doesn't really need to come off as well?

 

The more information the better    

Sounds pretty straight forward this. I just might give it a try tomorrow as well without breaking anything hopefully    My dealer was of no use anyway so far. Too bad you didn't take any pictures though but I think it shouldn't be too much of a hassle judging from what you wrote.

 

Just a few questions:

1. ''...prise center button out a few mm...'' - Do you have to unscrew it from start or it can be pulled out a few mm with a knife or similar?

2. Did you 'unclip' (raised) the trim using just your hands or some flat tool maybe?

3. The clips that hold the trim in place - to which part are they fixed to? Plastic trim or the body? 

4. That other plastic cover around the latch - are you saying it doesn't really need to come off as well?

 

The more information the better    

Answers:

1.  Get a flat blade under the centre button and pull that out slightly. You can't get any grip on the surface of the button to unscrew it right from the start.

2.  Flat tool required as it's quite stiff.

3.  Clips go into slots in the body.

4.  Can't remember, as I just took it off anyway. However, if it has to come off it's a doddle.

 

Good luck.

Very helpful thanks! Not sure if I have T45 Torx but will check first thing in the morning. I know I have a couple of T25...

Well I tried it but did not get far. Almost broke that 'middle button/screw' of the circular fastener trying to unscrew it so I just pushed it back in as it was and gave up. Was a close call 

Looks like I'll just have to get my dealer to adjust it after the holidays...

Worth a try.  You can't afford to break bits on your lovely new car and then suffer embarrassment or, worse, a refusal to repair things under warranty, when you show the dealer . At least now you know what has to be done and can browbeat your local Skoda man until he sorts it out for you.

Exactly. Thanks for the info though! Much appreciated! 

Hi, did you manage to resolve this problem as mine is apparently affected, too. Sometimes I manage to close the lid properly without problems and usage of excessive force, but sometimes it just closes halfway (it is closed but when you "test" it the lid moves a bit).

then I have to try several times using different force before I finally get it closed...

That's exactly my problem - have to close it several times with more force. Very unpleasant for any passengers sitting in the car while slamming it. I just emailed my dealer yesterday again since it's been almost a month now when it was said they'll get back to me. Still waiting for the response. It's just the matter of adjusting that bottom latch plate as Oldfellah wrote and now that I know that I'll try to persuade them in fixing it.

Mine closes easily and with only the light pressure to latch, had a Chrysler that was hard to shut until a door or window was open so the overpressure idea seems good. 

The "backpressure" will really only come into the equation when the boot lid is being shut hard/quickly. That isn't likely to be the root cause of the problem, as evidenced by my being able to sort mine. If in doubt, easy for PekoSI to experiment with a window cracked open and see whether it makes a difference. (He's quite probably tried it already.) IMO perseverance at the dealers is required I'm sorry to say.

The boot closes fairly easily when a door is open but that can't be the solution. I'm sure that adjusting the latch plate would make it easier to close even with some of the 'backpressure'.

Mine is quite easy to close, I just press a button. Sorry, couldn't resist... 

Mine is quite easy to close, I just press a button. Sorry, couldn't resist... 

 

Or like mine that's been coded with VCDS just press the button on the remote, it's great when you've got bags of shopping and stuff.

Now you guys are gloating   (and why not indeed). Strangely, what I did find closing my boot lid is that it's tempting to hold the (electric) latch while doing it and that of course STOPS the door from latching. Have taken to pushing it the last part down with my fingers on the rear wiper hub instead. New car, new foibles.

Now you guys are gloating   (and why not indeed). Strangely, what I did find closing my boot lid is that it's tempting to hold the (electric) latch while doing it and that of course STOPS the door from latching. Have taken to pushing it the last part down with my fingers on the rear wiper hub instead. New car, new foibles.

 

Just use the handle inside, that's always worked bet for me on manual tail gates, stop your hands getting dirty too.