Yeah must be the torque of your diesel. I notice it costs me about 3-5mpg

Certainly cant get those figures over snake pass either. I always get carried away across there, whether it be on the bike or in the car. Brilliant road haha. I ride woodhead pass quite abit in the summer too, then up past the big tele mast and into 'last of the summer wine' territory haha

Haha. It is always tempting. I always stick to the 50mph speed limit (as I should!), but I do like to give it some welly out of the bends in good conditions.

 

Problem is, there are so many idiots on the snake (either wannabe Carlos Sainz/Valentino Rossi's, or petrified of corners), it pays to give the road a bit more respect than I may do otherwise and keep things smooth, which may explain the good figures I get over there. I also find I don't use 5th gear over there much, as the car is much happier revving away in 3rd/4th with the help of the turbo. 

 

I received those heat packs today. They get nice and hot for 5-10mins, but I haven't tried them in the car yet. I've an early start tomorrow, so I'll probably give them a go then.

Ok guys...I think I can offer some other info on this subject. In 2008 I bought a new diesel Fabia Mk2 Estate which I owned for almost 5 years. I never ever had a condensation problem. I was mystified as to why others were posting that they had a problem in that area. However, last year due to my  circumstances changing I needed to do a quick swap of my car to a petrol automatic and promptly bought a pristine Skoda approved car, a 1.6 16v 105ps Tiptronic Mk2 estate with 10k on the clock. It's wonderful and great to drive. BUT...inspite of have not one leak anywhere in the vehicle, it suffers from condensation quite badly in the mornings. AC clears it on recirc but it still takes time.

 

So, I'm sitting in the car pondering this situation and drinking a bottle of water, all on my own drive when I dropped the bottle of water onto the passenger seat. Instantly the seat sucked up the water before I was able to grab the bottle and stand it upright. I sponged the water out of the material as best I could. Then it occurred to me. My first car was treated professionally by the Supagard people as part of my purchase deal. With that car I'd even spilt a cup of coffee into the passenger seat in a similar way to the way I'd dropped a bottle of water in my current ride. Yeah...I know. I need to be more careful. But of course, the Supagard treated car did not at anytime absorb any of the coffee. I remember mopping up the puddle of coffee that just sat on the surface of the seat material. The full set of mats and carpets were treated with Supagard too in the car. So in other words, the interior of the car stayed much drier on those wet days with no water from our coats being absorbed by the material making it easier to dry out during a journey. I'm sure that is a big factor in why my first Fabia did not mist up. Another thing, the seats stayed extremely clean in that car. Food for thought!

 

 

Soooo. In theory, if I wait for a dry spell and treat all the seats with water repellent spray, like Scotchguard, or Novadry that should reduce condensation?

 

It's worth a try, especially as Novadry's on offer at the moment at Decathlon. http://www.decathlon.co.uk/re-waterproofing-spray-sailing-jacket-id_8133093.html

 

I've a tin at home, but it's probably only enough for one seat.

I'm pretty sure when I got my car they treated the seats with such products and it made no difference. I've got a small dehumidifier and I think it makes a slight difference but not enough. I'll try ordering some of the products listed in other posts. I'm really fed up with this. Takes me ages to clear the windscreen then even when it clears if I turn the fan off to listen to the radio or whatever, it comes back instantly and I gotta turn the fans back on

I discussed this thread with my dealer. He tells me they have noticed a difference between cars that have been professionally treated and those that either haven't had any treatment or those that have had partial treatment to just seats. Mine had the full monty with seats, carpets and the floor mats treated. Even the backs of the seats were treated and the fabric panels on the doors. That apparently is the secret (or part of it). None of those items absorbed moisture. Now my current car has not had the treatment and it has terrible condensation. Being ex-techy the first thing I did was spend ages looking for water leaks. I have all the kit to do that including a fluorescent marker fluid, and a meter to detect the damp. I don't have any leaks anywhere. So it seems to be down to how much moisture the interior absorbs from our clothes and footwear, and from the moist winter air. After a wet day and a couple of trips out in the car, check just how wet your footwell mats are. Quite amazing how damp they are. If you have rubber mats, they too will deposit their collected moisture into the car fabrics. That Supagard was well worth it in my first car. My next car will have the same, but make sure it's done by the Supagard pro's who know what they are doing. Mine was and I watched for much of the time while it was done. Took over 4 man hours by two guys (2 1/4 hours total for inside and out).

You can do all the obvious stuff, good fresh Pollen Filter; 

Clean and polish all Glass, have a container of Rock Salt. or proper Moisture Absorbent packs in the vehicle,

get the car properly dried out when you get the chance.

Use a good Rubber restorer around the Door and boot seals.

Check the Drain holes in the door bottoms etc.

 

But if you have water (H20) from your feet during the day on the mats,

or wet Cloths or pads from wiping windows, you need to take these out at night and dry them,

or you are bothering about moisture in the Heater/AC system yet the obvious moisture is sitting in the car overnight.

 

george

 

For Winter time maybe get a Greenhouse heater in the car overnight or when parked up, set just above freezing,

leave the window a mm or so open.

Costs only pennies to run.

Then when your cheap Taiwanese heater shorts and sets fire to your car, you don't need to worry about steamed up windscreens as you won't have one, simples !

For Winter time maybe get a Greenhouse heater in the car overnight or when parked up, set just above freezing,

leave the window a mm or so open.

 

 

That'd be one hell of an extension lead from my third floor flat to the road.  :think:  I can't imagine those with garages have so many issues with condensation anyway?

 

Anyway, I tried the heat packs this morning. there wasn't much misting on the inside though and it certainly wasn't cold enough for what was there to freeze.

 

Even so, they do warm the air slightly on recirc with them placed over the windscreen vents, which may be enough to clear frozen mist from the inside the windscreen quicker. I wouldn't bother for anything else though.

When the Greenhouse Heater sets an Expensive Motor Home on fire i might worry. Or even my Hydroponics.

Skodas are 10 a penny.

 

Years ago we used Parrafin ones in your vans overnight,

(not when we were sleeping in them.)

 

& god help all those that lit fires under their diesel tanks and those that survived the burns and still do.

Amazing how us old people live to the age we do.

 

One thing is, we live to an old age with Vehicles without condensation & damp in them.

Amazing how us old people live to the age we do.

 

I'm amazed how you do it :p

My car has rubber mats. Perhaps carpet would be better, maybe they would absorb the moisture? Or is my logic flawed? I worked 11-9 today and the mats were still wet when I got in to go home

It is a bit better to keep the carpet or even the mats dry, with rubber mats where wet gets carried into the car,

they are easy to take out and wipe off and dry.

 

More moisture sitting on the floor i would expect than has been absorbed into the upholstery.

I noticed quite a lot of condensation in mornings etc when I got mine, I think it is where the seats were shampoo'd and not fully dried but after a few weeks it went away.