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Battery Drain! Octavia Vrs & door problem

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Can some one shed any light please...

51 plate VRS

Got a problem with it draining the power from the battery!

I do have a problem with the passenger front door ... nothink works in the door I.E Central locking/window/wing mirror etc

Could it be related??

Iv tested practically everything...

Everything seems to be pulling the correct voltage.. All fuses are fine in the fuse box and all working as should be,

The car was fully charged the other night, .. I did not lock the car all night left it open with the passenger door wiring loom disconnected from the footwell plug!

Next morning it fired up first time..

Last night I reconnected the plug & locked the car ( central locking )

The battery was dead this morning...

Now this is where it baffled me, could the problem with the door be why the battery is being drained"?

I did check if the interior light goes out or not with the doors being shut and it doesn't guessing that's because of the passenger door being broke

( & before anyone says about the interior light ... I do turn it off so it's not on the door setting )

Can some one shed any light on my problems

Many thanks

  • Author

Can Anyone Help?

Have you had the door panel off? Check the module and the loom in the door for water ingress/damage.

  • Author

iv got the panels off both front doors although the problem is on the passenger side...

I have checked everything for water ingress / corrosion.

one thing I am going to test tomorrow is every connection in the main plug to make sure all is connected and not broken.. But at first inspection everything seemed perfectly fine!

But is that going to cause battery drain aswell"?

Why not try locking the car, but with the passenger door disconnected?  That might help to show if the problem is with the central locking or the passenger door.

  • Author

that is currently being done as we speak so will know more in the morning where that's concerned

A faulty module could cause the battery drain if its got a small short inside it

Sent with Tapatalk

  • Author

You refering to the CCU there?

I did check if the interior light goes out or not with the doors being shut and it doesn't 

 I think this is the clue. From memory having read other posts, the central convenience unit shuts everything off once it has seen that all doors are locked, including shutting off the interior lights.

So look at the wiring from the microswitches in the door. Also check for a broken wire where the cables go through the hole in the door edge in case you have pulled the wires at all. Breaks are not unknown.

 

Edit. Duplicate words deleted.

Edited by pikpilot

Hi buddy.

The fact that you disconnected the loom and could start car next day and then when you connected the loom back up and got a current drain indicates the door components/loom are the culprit. Therefore you could narrow it down by connecting loom and leaving one door component unplugged at a time.

 

Generally if interior light does not come on with car door open this is a door lock mechanism issue with the micro switches, but could also be a combination of problems 

 

The door is made up of a Door lock mechanism, A door/window control unit and main loom that feeds these and other auxiliary stuff like electric window switch, speaker/tweeter, door puddle light. Check all of these for any signs of corrosion or electrical shorting which can happen from water ingress. . 

 

If nothing is obvious, you could first start by unplugging the door lock and leave that overnight.and see if you have a drain. then next would be the door/window control unit plug.

 

i have had to replace door lock and loom in both rear doors as the minute you start moving those frail cable looms they start playing up due to the years of water running over them and door opening causing some degree of fatigue. 

 

The main CCU (central convenience unit) is locate on passenger footwell that can also get water ingress in it, but i would first rule out the other items. It helps to have spare loom and door mechanism around too. I have a few spare now...  

Sent from my Samsung S3

  • Author

Right, this morning the car fired up perfectly no problems what so ever! Battery had held full charge according to the Volt Metre! ...

The car was locked on the central locking

But the passenger side front door was unplugged at the footwell!

So that obviously means what ever is draining the battery is from that door?

Checked the main plug on the motor & that is clean as can be.. No corrosion or water if honest although the actual motor it self was very damp with condensation! .. But the plug and contacts were fine..

Have put contact cleaner on them anyway! So going to do some more digging ... Any more help would be great,

I'm a ford boy normally and RS Turbo's are more what im used to with fixing! & they didn't know what electrics were back then was so simple...

These Octys have more sensors and wires than needed lol!

  • Author

Right I get 12.5v upto the main Plug on the window module!

If I check the plug to the lock it reads low at 11.24v

Anyone want to shed any light"?

  • Author

Checked the window switch and that gets a low reading off 11.23v ...

But off the drivers side control panel everything works, minus the passenger door still!

so I know everythink on drivers side is fine

I'm guessing that the main plug for window/door may be at fault??

But by the looks it is all connected to the window regulator.. Does all that have to be changed or is it a fact of taking the lower part of the module off abs replacing that?

Since you have a multimeter, here is something else to try.

Take a look at this post by Bowders1 in the puddle light thread:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/296851-how-to-install-rear-door-puddle-leds/

 

The first picture is taken from the Haynes manual and shows the connections between a rear door control module and the microswitches. 

Using one lead on pin 2 (brown wire), check the operation of the microswitches as you open/close/lock/unlock the doors by placing the other lead in turn on pins 4, 3 and 6 (green, grey+blue and blue wires).

  • Author

Now I have a confusion! .. Iv cured the drain and have located it to the main module on the passenger front door...

Now this may be somethink I have done but my drivers door won't lock or unlock now! =/ .. I did put contact cleaner on the main plug on the drivers side and it worked fine before ... By any chance could that module on the drivers side just go like that"? ..

Like I said it worked perfectly fine this morning went to lock the car just and the back of the car locks, the front doesn't!

Give me strength

Now I have a confusion! .. Iv cured the drain and have located it to the main module on the passenger front door...

Now this may be somethink I have done but my drivers door won't lock or unlock now! =/ .. I did put contact cleaner on the main plug on the drivers side and it worked fine before ... By any chance could that module on the drivers side just go like that"? ..

Like I said it worked perfectly fine this morning went to lock the car just and the back of the car locks, the front doesn't!

Give me strength

 

Unfortunately as i mentioned  above buddy.....

 

"the minute you start moving those frail cable looms they start playing up due to the years of water running over them and door opening causing some degree of fatigue." :think:

 

Their a way over complicated door set up really and just lend themselves to problems.  

 

You really need to have a known good loom and potentially other components buddy else you are just going to go round in circles.

 

The door not locking could be the loom now not driving  the can bus current to the mechanism when remote is operating. Seen this many times before and also on mine. as the wires from the door control module also go to the door lock mechanism as you have moved them you could well of disturbed contact now to the door lock. I could not find the dam short in my loom but could push against loom in a particular spot and it would stop door lock working.

 

It is a case or elimination buddy. 

 

I was lucky I had a complete spare door that i just hung into door way and connect the loom up and the spare door operated as it should. I then knew the problem was in the door somewhere. You have already sussed this one out, so you have made progress.

 

Then I removed the loom from spare door and  connected it to the components in my door and hooked it to the pillar plug and it worked as it should 

 

good luck

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