This is how mine was sitting 3 weeks after fitting 4 new shock absorbers with

the old vrs springs. I didn't actually measure anything but the height went up a

fair bit. Your shocks must be correct, as far I know the bracket on the shock where

the anti roll bar bolts to is specific to the vrs. So if that's where its attached

to they must be the right ones.

Well the cars back on the road, we had to cut a hole inside the boot to get to the captive, then snap the captive off, drop in a nut and bolt to attach the shock mount. Not easy but all fitted, and just need to repair the hole in the boot, poss trim the hole neatly and fit a grommet.

Will post pics when it's settled but the back needs to come up abit I think, I like a bit of rake.

Edited 20 January, 201412 yr by chrisw4266

IMG_20131026_105330.jpg

This is how mine was sitting 3 weeks after fitting 4 new shock absorbers with

the old vrs springs. I didn't actually measure anything but the height went up a

fair bit. Your shocks must be correct, as far I know the bracket on the shock where

the anti roll bar bolts to is specific to the vrs. So if that's where its attached

to they must be the right ones.

 

its almost like mine , maybe 1 cm lower anyway , as far as i will change back to 17" than i can compare better.

Sorry i dont know the english name of that rubber thing which is also must change  with shock absorbers , i think its comming on the top of the damper...

There is difference in that rubber for Vrs and for Normal Octavia ???

Its a rubber suspension top mount buddy. And no the part is the same for all octavias.

Yess i realized , after  found some interesting sheme of the suspension .

Now i have to change the rear shocks.

I found Monroe E1222 or Monroe 23890 ... someone have some suggestion ???

 

Or if you know pro and contra's about  some brands to use in vrs on rear ??

Edited 22 January, 201412 yr by gjenck

Finally got the suspension finished today raised the rear, as no one likes a saggy back end   Took it in to a mates garage and set the tracking up so she drives straight, all was well until the abs and asr lights came on at 70 mph gutted :wonder: Found the O/S/F wiring to the abs had rubbed through on the wheel, it was clipped to the shock in the correct place but as the wire is the same size but the new coli over is shorter. This created a loop in the wire that stuck out and fouled the wheel, so after a solder and heat shrink repair the lights are gone   

I'm pretty happy with the height and doesn't rub even with the kids and my sub box result.

Looks good buddy. Glad you got it sorted. So how is it driving are you happy with it?

It's firm but not solid still has some give and handles really well. Goes round corners pretty flat.

It's firm but not solid still has some give and handles really well. Goes round corners pretty flat.

It should still be reasonably comfortable at that height you havnt went really low. It's looking sweet anyway.

Cheers meaty I'm still tinkering there's a knock from the NSF when 2 or more in the car. Only happens on right hand turns over bumps, so not sure if ARB is fouling driveshaft or something else. Made worse bu the fact I turn right at a badly repaired r'about everyday and it clunks there every time ffs. Might have to raise it slightly.

It could be a few things but it won't be the driveshaft on the arb. The vrs doesn't have that issue due to mounting points on the strut. It could be arb bushes ( common problem ), ball joint, wishbone bushes. Did you change the top mounts?

Cheers meaty I'm still tinkering there's a knock from the NSF when 2 or more in the car. Only happens on right hand turns over bumps, so not sure if ARB is fouling driveshaft or something else. Made worse bu the fact I turn right at a badly repaired r'about everyday and it clunks there every time ffs. Might have to raise it slightly.

anti roll bar bushes is my guess mine did this and they were shagged!

Will get some ARB bushes then, the bottom arm bushes are new, and the ball joints felt ok when I checked them. Top mounts looked ok and would have thought they would knock all the time not just round right hand bends. When sat in the passenger side you can feel it through the floor near the centre console. Any one know the size for standard front ARB on a vrs ? So I can get em poly bushed.

The standard arb is 19mm thick. But, they came fitted with plastic collars which split and break and usually its the collars making the noise. What's recommended now ( and what I did ) break the plastic collars off the, then you'll need 17mm bushes for the 19mm bar. I used superpro ones and had no problem.

Cheers will get some ordered today. Think I'm gonna do the rear beam bushes as well. I noticed when fitting my coil overs that with the shock and spring removed the ns would move up/down with very little effort but the os had to be jacked up to get it to move.

Edited 28 January, 201412 yr by chrisw4266

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/215352-how-to-changing-mk1-octy-rear-beam-bushes/?view=getnewpost

You'll be needing this then. Thanks again to Bowders.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/215352-how-to-changing-mk1-octy-rear-beam-bushes/?view=getnewpost

You'll be needing this then. Thanks again to Bowders.

Lol yeah I read that last night mate.

17 mm super pro FRAB on route now, just wished the weather would improve hate doing suspension work as I have to work out side. My garage ain't wide enough to work next to the car  Any tips for changing the D bushes guys??

Just make sure you have the later updated brackets with the ridge through the middle. I think the original ones were just flat. And buy a couple of bolts slightly longer than the original ones. Get the bush & bracket in place, tighten up with the longer bolts first. This will squash the bush enough so you can remove the longer bolts, then refit the original ones. You don't have to do that but it can be a pain trying to get your bolts in with a new bush.

cheers meaty101 I'll have a look and check the brackets, i did some on my dad Ibiza a while back they where tight to get back in so I'll try the longer bolt trick.   

Longer bolt trick definitely works, also when you check your balljoints, check them on lock too, as my ones had no movement in the straight ahead position, but had a small amount on lock.

 

Just a heads up, as I spent ages trying to find a knock that turned out to be balljoints, changed roll bar bushes and all sorts before I found it.

Cheers KentPhil I'm off on Friday so will have a good look round the suspension.