A bit of advice on changing exhaust manifold.

[Big Lee]

Right I'm thinking of changing my exhaust manifold myself, I'm not a novice but I'm no expert. I have done everything from intercoolers to rear wheel bearings and exhaust. I've got the tools for the job well I think I have everything unless there's something special that I need? I just want to know if I have everything I need really and how long it will roughly take? Any tips would be awesome too.

This is all the gaskets I've got as I got someone to order what he thinks I need to do the job. I know I'm missing the washers for the copper nuts, but I was told I could reuse the original ones. Plus TPS didn't have any!

What are the black gaskets for? Are they the turbo oil and water feed gaskets?

I'm planning on doing the job on Friday if I can get the day off work so I'm all ears to tips and advice please.

Thanks in advice.

[RobClubley]

They look like the oil feed gaskets.

[Big Lee]

To the turbo,I was going to leave it in place and just disconnect it from the manifold(if possible?)

[Big Lee]

Any tips or suggestion would be great? From anyone?

[devonutopia]

It was tough enough for me getting a turbo off the manifold with the engine out the car sat on my drive.    

 

Dread to think what it would be like doing it trying to leave turbo in situ.  Good luck.

[Mankee]

This is a job that I'll have to contend with at some point as well. I had to change the manifold to turbo gasket but that was easy as the turbo dropped a few millimeters once the three bolts were removed, enough to slide a new gasket in place. However, getting to the 13 manifold nuts looks tricker. If you remove the bolt holding the turbo to the block, you can lower it to get easier access to the manifold nuts. Might need to disconnect/remove the downpipe too.

 

Good luck and let us know how you get on!

[Big Lee]

Cheers, sounds like it's going to take me a few hours(I have hands like a bears paws) if I get it done I will get lots of picture for future reference. I've have a list of part numbers so I will also get the up too as it comes in handy for other people.

[Big Lee]

Well I must say wasn't half as bad as I'd thought it would be, you don't need to disconnect the downpipe but there is a sneaky brackets that attached to the turbo that you have to undo from underneath. After that it drops enough to get in to the 12mm copper manifold nuts. I'll do a brief write up with tips and all the part number I've got at some point.

[Mankee]

Ah brilliant great to hear. Is there enough length on the studs to fit Aerotight nights? I think I priced up VAG nuts at £2.42, which adds up to a fair bit for a new set of 13 of them.

[Big Lee]

You've got to be careful with the studs when ordering them as there is two sizes. I ordered 5 new studs just incase I broke any so it didn't hold me up, I had a issue with one stud and turned out when I took it out I had the wrong ones. I had to order one which will be with me tomorrow, the car if fully built back up and the stud I need to put in was a top middle one so it's ok until I get it tomorrow. I will have the part number tomorrow for the right ones for the VRS. Bloody hell didn't realise they was that expensive, good job I have connection at Skoda.

[stig1]

I think you will have to remove the turbo to gain access to the nuts on the manifold I found its better to remove it all to gain access down pipe the lot saves doing the job twice

[Big Lee]

Yeah the 3 bolts that hold the turbo in placed need to be removed otherwise you would not get to the nut. You don't need to remove the dowepipe, just spoke to someone at skoda and they only book 2.5hours to do that job! I would have thought it would have been longer,well worth the savings doing it yourself.

[theo_k]

Did you manage to do everything at the end? Any comments guides and part numbers that you promised?

[OutlawKen]

Done this twice on mine when I replaced my turbo then had leaks! Once the turbo inlet pipe is off, the 3 bolts to the turbo removed and the turbo lowered by undoing the bracket its easy to get these off as long as you move the turbo side to side to gain access.

I will warn you all the 3 turbo bolts are stretch bolts so not reusable and even the new ones from tps I had undid so I ended up putting ridged washers under them that crushed and provided grip to the heads of the bolts, no part number as they are a DAF trucks washer

[theo_k]

I am sure the answer is no but do we need to apply any bonding agent between the gasket and engine block?

Also, I had issues with the turbo screws and then someone suggested to use M10 high tensile 12.9 hex/allen, I did and never had an issue since then. To be honest maybe a couple of times I tightened it and then it stopped coming out.

 

One more question, should I just change the 4 screws from the downpipe as a good measure? Or just leave it as it is?

[theo_k]

part numbers used:

 

N0444115 M8x30 threaded pin - the one that is on the block
N90357201 8,4X17X4 Washers
N90200201 M8 copper nuts
058253039L Gasket

 

found everything on ebay apart from the washers.

[j600arv]

Hi pal was yours the pre fl vrs? Why did you change your manifold, was it cracked? Mines the mk2 fl and I’m getting a strange blowing noise come from the manifold area when I take my foot of the accelerator. 

[theo_k]

did not see this earlier, not sure who you are aiming your question to but this is for mkI Octavia.  We usually change our exhaust manidfolds either because the stock ones have small runners or because the after market ones with the long runners crack.  Mine was cracked open like a rose. Hope it helps