Good morning everyone,

Bit of a weird one. When starting my car this morning it took a couple more cranks on the starter motor to fire up. Once started the car was shaking from an obvious misfire. No lights or warning were on the dash and once I applied a tiny amount of throttle the misfire cleared and the car was it's normally silky smooth self. Completed a 40 mile round trip without any problem.

Car is just coming up to 3 years old with 24800 on the clock. Completely standard CAVE engine.

Anyone ever experienced this before on a cold start? It was 2.5deg and the air was damp. The car had been sat for 36 hours apart from a brief switch on to let the misses car out yesterday.

I'm just about to bolt on a ITG so just thought I was get some advice.

Maybe just change the spark plugs, they are due to be done in 15,000 miles anyway.

 

Or just put it down to the cold, it has not moved for 36 hours and it has been damp.

 

But it should still start and run smooth.

 

No need to change the Air Filter if you are away to fit the ITG

But maybe best to fit good Spark Plugs, & better ones than Skoda Fit from the Factory.

 

*This is a 25,000 mile spark plug out of a standard CAVE standard tune.

a few more miles and the car would have had Codes or in Limp Mode,

You would need to Call Skoda Assist etc etc.

if out of Warranty, you probably do not want that.. So preventative is good*

Cheers for the reply George. I'm thinking that the plugs do need changing. Had a more detailed browse though the service history and there is no mention of the plugs being changed.

Not sure about the difficulties starting, mine always fires up instantly, but on certain days it does decide to idle a bit lumpy for a few seconds but no running issues at all.

As George says some new BKR7EIX plugs or better won't hurt a thing and might even perk the engine up.

Skoda Service schedule is 40,000 miles for plugs,  (SKODA SHOULD REVEW AND CHANGE THAT PROBABLY)

Sparkly's, Sharkriders and others have been fine to well over 30,000 miles.

 

Some fail before 20,000 miles, you notice the economy get worse.

Worst failed plug i have see is on a 17,000 Polo GTI run on 95 Ron Shell Fuel Saver..

 

If your car has the Original 2011 plugs, they might have been the wrong ones fitted anyway.

So interested to see what you have when they come out.

 

Has your car had a ECU update, at any Services, or before the Warranty Expires?

 

** 3 years old time for the Brake Fluid change with the vRS.**

Then each 2 years unless you do more often.

Yeah I've never had any problems at all starting her in the 16000 miles of ownership.

This has been the first incident of a lumpy start, but once cleared the car was running fine. Will look to replace the plugs. Just need to get a coil pack tool!

Car has been run on either V-Power nitro or Momentum 99 and has always started quickly and been super smooth on idle. Weird; I want to whip the plugs out now and have a look

I can't say that it has or not to be honest George. It's been serviced by Skoda since new and has had 3 Services with no history of a plug change. Just the usual oil, lube and inspection.

Coil remover Tool as i keep showing,  price free if you have the material to make it.

 

Services were or should be.

 

10,000/12 months mile Minor Service

 

20,000/2 year  Major service /Inspection  with Pollen Filter, on the Diagnostic VAS and ECU update if required.

 

30,000/3 year, Minor Service but also Brake Fluid Change.

 

40,000 Mile/4 year,  Major/Inspection Service, Pollen Filter & Spark Plugs, Air Filter

Coil Tool remover as i keep showing, price free if you have the material to make it.

Any link on how to make it yourself? I've got some material and machinery handy.

Edited 22 March, 201412 yr by newbie69

There is a thread in this section.  someone made and sold them and i seem to remember Stu_Mc had the bought ones from VW.

 

If you do not know how they need to be to remove the ignition coils , best just buy them, from Ebay or VAG Tool

Then copy  that and sell them.

 

Be very carefull removing coils, they are expensive.

** Be very very carefull changing plugs,

Cross thread them and you will cry, and that is a very expensive mistake.**

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/256122-an-ideal-tool-for-all-14tsi-diy-enthusiasts

 

I use a Length of rubber pipe that fits over the Spark Plug tip to put then down the tube and get the correct thread and screw in without cross threading, 

(as seen sitting on the Heat Shield)

Check and double check plugs not cross threaded before using the long extended Plug Socket.

Thanks George. For 12 pounds + shipping I think I will just buy it off Awesome GTI. It will come handy in the future anyway If I remap and start changing them regularly.

Update: Car has been fine since. No problems and starting first time as normal. I am still going to whip the plugs out and change them for piece of mind.

I think it could be to do with you starting the car up for a short timd to lett ur wifes car out. My last car wss a petrol it lay for 24hrs

Then i started the car moved about 6 feet switched it off then the next day the car struggled to start mybe u flooded the car ?

That makes sense to be honest, it was the fist time I have ever switched the car on to move it and then turn off within a minute. (Recently got a third car so space is limited) I'm going to avoid doing that again.

Yeah if I have to do that I always go for a five min run up to the shop and back just to be on the safe side

Do you know when you open your drivers door the fuel pump runs and primes the petrol.

(listen for it.)

 

Starting the engine and moving a little or stopping it really is not causing the rough running on a Twincharger.

Yeah it might prime the petrol but is it not the case that when you start the car up when cold then switch it of a short time later 

That there could be some petrol flooding in to the injectors.This makeing it harder to start next timd round i might be wrong but this hapend on my last car twice saying that it was not a turbo

Twinchargers with good batteries and 98 ron petrol are not hard to start even in cold ambient temperatures,

& should not run rough unless there is some fault.

The ECU needing the update can be an issue as can be the spark plugs.

the Turbo Charger has nothing to do with anything on start up of a 1.4tsi, with Turbo or the Twincharger with Supercharger and Turbo.

My car only has 1800 miles on it and its now developed a rough idle on a cold start, runs at 1100rpm's and noticeable rough like an auto choke is in operation when it need not be then slowly comes down to 800+rpm after half minute or so then runs smooth as silk, always run on shell v-power or Tesco momentum 99 with one exception it had tank on bp ultimate (which is expensive pond water by the way)

Also the dsg in D will slur its first set of changes up to 7th from cold like its an auto box from a 90's Volvo, after that it sharpens up and I go find some corners to make myself really cross about the handling issues, when I give up on that I drive home slowly struggling to get the average mpg to come up to 15 whilst listening to the dash squeak like rats on heat and the a cat runs out into the road a hundred yards in front of me whilst I'm doing 27mph in a village and then boooom, the brakes, aka the left pedal that goes to the bulkhead because they got a bit warm 10 minutes previously and then I'm wondering the streets with a dead cat looking for the owners house to tell them my sarcasm issues really need to be addressed once and for all, this can't got on, it was true until the cat ran out....

Is it not in 7th before you are at 50mph in about 200 years from starting off?

 

You bought a really bad one it seems.

you really must use those brakes lots, or the ESP is on overtime using them for you.

 

It should start at 1,100 rpm and be down to 800 rpm within 1 minute.

Not sure about the difficulties starting, mine always fires up instantly, but on certain days it does decide to idle a bit lumpy for a few seconds but no running issues at all.

As George says some new BKR7EIX plugs or better won't hurt a thing and might even perk the engine up.

I got a second set of these for mine, although each time I couldn't see any information on the packaging on the torque setting for them?

Check spark leads and plugs and where the spark initially comes from, not up on modern electrical systems, in my day it would have been something could a coil, which produced the spark..

Is it not in 7th before you are at 50mph in about 200 years from starting off?

 

You bought a really bad one it seems.

you really must use those brakes lots, or the ESP is on overtime using them for you.

 

It should start at 1,100 rpm and be down to 800 rpm within 1 minute.

It dose start at 1,100 rpm, sometimes its noticeable lumpy, then down to 800 rpm within a minute as you say, if i allow the revs to drop to 800 before setting off the dsg is better on its first set of changes, if i start and set off straight away that's when the dsg will slur its first set of changes up to seventh, by the way i don't hammer it down the road from cold. And yes the box dose get to seventh in no time in D mode on a light trottle.

No idea if its a bad one or not, the dealer won't let me take out a demo to compare it against, on a positive note it doesn't seem to use much oil as yet so hey that's good! Think really that I have to do some mods to suspension and brakes because it wasn't designed by vag to be driven by ex racers like me. I need to meet some like minded folk on here a let them drive it see what they think! Anyone?