Hey guys,

Just wondering has anyone ever taken the wastegate actuator off the turbo in their vrs before? And if it's an easy job or a niggly job?

Going to have a wee look at it and see if it needs replacing or if it just needs a bit of Willy Dan!

Thanks

Let me know how you get on bud! This is the next job on my list! Replace actuator :(

It seems like a nasty job to get to! What problems you getting? My problem is where i put my foot down and when the boost is meant to kick in, the actuator pops and chokes the turbo and it's so annoying! And it also makes my boost fluctuate!

If you unplug the N75, the turbo should just run on actuator pressure. Use VCDS to log the numbers and see if it is a weak actuator opening the wastegate early or possibly a dodgy N75 letting the actuator er... actuate prematurely.

 

Here's a couple of links from my bookmarks with titbits of info on how to change the actuator:

 

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/26561-agu-18t-125000miles-actuator-snuffed-new-turbo-or-just-replace-actuator/

 

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=210760.0 (penultimate post from Nick on the first page)

Thanks i don't have vcds, but i do have torque pro, will i get anything from that?

Thanks again

I get the fluctuating boost! When it was mapped i was told the actuator was weak. I just havent got the time to do it atm :(

it's a right pain! i can hear the whistle tone dropping then rising like it's pulsating. i noticed it as well on my Torque pro app, where it's showing the boost gauge rising and dropping. I probably won't be able to get round to it til next month, tight budget this month! :( I'll let you know how i get on though

It's really tricky to replace, I've just got a k03 hybrid turbo to replace mine on my felicia due to a dodgy wastegate, on mine the actuator arm bushes are shot so it flaps around like a donkey's nob in the wind plus there are large cracks around the poppet valve seat too so I get little or no boost at all when the n75 is unplugged, the actuator will come out from above easiest if you remove the top charge pipe elbow, the bolts that hold the actuator bracket to the compressor housing are fiddly to get to and quite often the nuts on the pushrod sieze on there and are notoriously difficult to loosen because the pushrod often spins with the nut.

I seem to remember seeing forge Motorsport make up rated actuators for those too

thanks for the tip!

 

yeah seen that they have Forge actuators, might just get one of them. think they are about £120. My car has a stage 1 map so i'm sure it'll be helpful to it  

 

now i'm not too sure about this, but i might just go double that money and just buy a brand spanking new turbo! 

Stay clear of the ebay specials from Hong Kong, you'd be better off getting your original unit rebuilt, approx £350 for a standard recon on average.

It's not that bad just a pain to get to. I had to remove the actuator to get my turbo out. It's three 10mm bolts if I recall.

I seem to recall kneeling on the front of the engine and resting one arm on the strut brace to be able to reach,

Save a few quid over the Forge and gear a Beach Buggy Turbo actuator. Dan's website seems to be non-functional at the moment but the ISP still has the page available:

 

http://www.ekmpowershop13.com/ekmps/shops/beachbuggyturbo/k03-uprated-actuator-218-p.asp

 

I don't use Facebook myself, but you can find him there as well.

 

Badger Bill did some actuator comparisons on an Ibiza:

 

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=383028

Dan at beach buggy turbos is where I got my actuator from, great bloke! got a oem from him for the time being but when I go hybrid turbo I will be going for one of his uprated actuators. From memory I think they were a very good price!

 

Going to have a go at replacing my actuator today, may take robs approach and start kneeling on the engine haha!

I get very minor boost surges more so in 3rd gear at WOT above 3500rpm that likely to be the actuator? Turbo has done 130k.

How you got to it from on top rob is a mirical! I undid everything but couldnt get my downpipe out the way,exhaust bloke thought a 1 piece downpipe and decat would be a good idea! just couldnt get to it at all haha! Try again soon!

right, so if i was to get an up-rated actuator, would it be okay on the stage 1 map i have at the moment? or would i have to get it mapped again to go with it?

It depends on what pressure rating you go for, gone are they days of cranking up the wastegate actuator a few turns like you could get away with on cosworths and r5's to squeeze a few extra psi from it. If there's any deviation between requested and actual boost it will just go into limp mode.

That's my problem right there then, the car loses all boost from time to time, which is annoying. It comes back when i turn the car off then on again, which i am also getting tired of doing! Sometimes it'll last a blast through the gears, then I slow down for a corner or something, then when i put the foot down again, no boost at all, but there is the woosh of the DV. Confusing times!

Hows your brake lights? Do they work properly? Do they light up soon as you put your foot on the pedal

brake lights come on just by touching the pedal, so that's not my issue there. i'll have a look at the DV tomorrow after a wee sleep (on nightshift at the mo!) i'll see if that's working properly! 

 

There are so many things it could be haha! blimmin' vag!

What he means is, like another issue I was having.....

 

If the brake light switch is knackered, and the brake lights flicker on and off over bumps, the ecu cuts boost.!

This is because  the brake light switch is dual function.. 

It controls the brake lights AND also is wired into the ecu.. 

 

That's why in these cars you can't left foot brake because as soon as the ecu knows you 're braking, it cuts power.

 

My car was a nightmare, over every bump I'd loose power, foot off throttle, back on... power back lol 

Yeah i knew what problem the brake light switch causes, but i'm pretty sure mines okay, but i guess there's no harm in changing it! 

 

How much is it for the part and where's its location?? cheers

Edited 10 April, 201412 yr by wally22

About 12 quid for switch TPS..

 

Back of brake pedal

okay cheers bud

you can use a login code on vcds to switch off the brake pedal power cut off so you can do the old left foot shuffle, cant remember it off hand though, would need to look it up, i seem to remember there are other functions similar to the cut off where if you press the brake and accelerator at the same time when the car isnt moving it only revs to 2500rpm, this is to make holding it at the specified speed for the emissions test easier