Yeah, I got what you were referring to with regards the different heights, just making the point that it's been said already that quite a few people have had no issue with the hockey puck. As long as everyone's happy I guess.

Ive jacked may cars with no problem using a slotted hockey puck

No damage at all...IMO...no need at all to go to these other lengths described

+1. Me too. I've found the slotted hockey puck to be more than adequate. As others have said, I got mine off eBay ready milled and it works a treat.

Just one hockey puck here too. The puck is rubber so it moulds to the shape of the sill with the weight of the car on it. No need to spread the weight between the outer and inner edge of the sills perfectly.

 

I've used this £2.50 puck to jack up all four corners of my vRS hatch, Scout estate and Superb Twindoor with no issues.

 

As for the earlier post about messing about on eBay, I found, purchased and paid for it whilst sat on my backside in front of the TV. When it fell through the letterbox two days later I was able to lean over and grab it off the mat from the same seat. Have fun in the shed cutting and shaping your bits of wood

Edited 13 April, 201412 yr by silver1011

Have fun in the shed cutting and shaping your bits of wood

If the Octavia II was designed to be jacked on the sill then the supplied jack would do that. But it doesn't, hence some of us use a suitably shaped and sized piece of wood in conjunction with a trolley jack to support the weight of the car just behind the sill. Simples.

You missed my point. The hockey puck does the job of the wood without the hassle.

On the contrary I didn't. I have tried the puck method but this jacks the car on the seam. I then did some measuring, as the OP (philbes) did, and opted for a solution which ensures that the weight is supported where it should be.

The issue with jacking on the seam instead of the sill is that you bend the seam.

 

Bending the seam opens up the sealant letting in water which eventually corrodes the seam and then the sill.

 

Using the hockey puck hasn't bent the seams on any of my cars, mainly because the rubber forms around the seam when compressed.

 

I'm sure a wooden chock works just as well, my point was that it was easier for me to source a puck than a block of wood which would then need measuring and cutting.

I'm afraid I have already bent my seams. I assumed wrongly that they would hold the weight of the car, as they have done on my previous cars (I know, total muppetry etc etc).

Some sections of 'sealant' have come out.

So, what is the best thing to do now? My plan is a good clean and then Waxoil the four sections affected.

Any thoughts, advance on that?

Thanks all.

Just given a friend a lift to pick up his car from the local tyre supplier.  When there I looked at an Octavia that was jacked up to replace all four tyres,  The metal pads on the jack where located on the sill seams!  When I pointed out to the tyre fitter that this was not the correct jacking point for an Octavia he replied "that's where we always jack 'em up".

 

The owner of the tyre supplier, who I have known for over 30 years, then got involved in the conversation which ended with me stating that if that was how they intended to jack up my car then after more than 30 years of purchasing all the tyres for both our cars from them (apart from my winter tyres last year) I was going elsewhere in future.  I shall give them a copy of the marked up photograph that showed the correct jacking points and was included in another thread.

I'm afraid I have already bent my seams. I assumed wrongly that they would hold the weight of the car, as they have done on my previous cars (I know, total muppetry etc etc).

Some sections of 'sealant' have come out.

So, what is the best thing to do now? My plan is a good clean and then Waxoil the four sections affected.

Any thoughts, advance on that?

Thanks all.

My last car, a 2005 Honda Civic, had clearly marked especially strengthened sections on the sills specifically designed to be jacking points.   I always used these with my scissors jack and after 7 years there was no damage whatsoever.  These would certainly have worked with a trolley jack and a hockey puck with a shallow (say 10mm) narrow slot, but I never had the need to do so as the scissors jack worked fine.

My last car, a 2005 Honda Civic, had clearly marked especially strengthened sections on the sills specifically designed to be jacking points.   I always used these with my scissors jack and after 7 years there was no damage whatsoever.  These would certainly have worked with a trolley jack and a hockey puck with a shallow (say 10mm) narrow slot, but I never had the need to do so as the scissors jack worked fine.

Yes, that was my downfall - i.e. my last few cars have always jacked from the sill.

Any thoughts / advice on what I should do all? Will Waxoil sort it, or do I need to consider a sill / seam repair?

Cheers,

Dunc

Got a puncture fixed a while ago and watched carefully when the bloke tried a trolley jack on the seam. Even in the correct place, he simply managed to bend it over about 45 degrees, but I stopped him as soon as I saw the deformation starting, and showed his boss what had happened. I said it wasn't a huge deal, just needed tapping/bending back with a combination of pliers and a hammer then when it was straight again he just got a huge tub of waxoyl type stuff out and covered it over. The seam didn't look split when it was bent, just briefly out of shape. I wouldn't put a trolley jack straight on it again though!

 

Good to keep an eye on these things when garages work on them.

I think its more tyre places than proper garages. As several posts here indicate. They generally work with staff with an even lower level of training or knowledge.

The supplied car jack lifts the car on the panel behind the seam where it is reinforced. The hockey puck idea does not do this because they don't have the thickness. Unless you use two and then modify them.

Epoxy is not a particularly good adhesive for the plastic (polypropylene) the pucks are made from. You can use screws, but must then make sure the holes are sized correctly or the screws will shear off.

Or make one from an offcut of ply. Most places that cut to size will have offcuts.

Most ply has reasonable compression strength and generally more consistent mechanical properties than plain "wood" which could split at an inopportune moment. Chip board has little compressive strength, mdf would be adequate if it wasn't so prone to moisture degradation.

Yes, that was my downfall - i.e. my last few cars have always jacked from the sill.

Any thoughts / advice on what I should do all? Will Waxoil sort it, or do I need to consider a sill / seam repair?

Cheers,

Dunc

 

I have repaired this before by bending as straight as you can get it, then i filled the gap with silicone sealant and then have painted over the whole thing with a roof type of mastic, the stuff i  used was stuff i had left over from some roof repairs, never fully dries out so is always slightly sticky and good at keeping moisture out. 

I have repaired this before by bending as straight as you can get it, then i filled the gap with silicone sealant and then have painted over the whole thing with a roof type of mastic, the stuff i  used was stuff i had left over from some roof repairs, never fully dries out so is always slightly sticky and good at keeping moisture out. 

I repaired damage to two places on the sills of my car with the same method.  I also put dabs of red paint on the sills to mark the position behind which the jack support area is located.

I have repaired this before by bending as straight as you can get it, then i filled the gap with silicone sealant and then have painted over the whole thing with a roof type of mastic, the stuff i used was stuff i had left over from some roof repairs, never fully dries out so is always slightly sticky and good at keeping moisture out.

Thanks philbes and Lewwy - sounds like a plan. Will bend back as best as I can and Waxoil - I have a pot handy. Like the silicone sealant idea though.

Thanks for your help / thoughts.

Cheers,

Dunc

Edited 16 April, 201412 yr by dunc69

This is the problem with the internet some will say it's fine and others will say it's not.

maybe the answer is to see how it test fits and jack the car up slowly watching for any possible deformation

Apologies for resurrecting this thread.

 

Question for Scout owners who have jacked up their vehicles using the hockey puck; did you use the grooved or non grooved puck?  According to my local dealer I should not use the grooved puck as I may damage the Scout cladding fitted to the underside of the vehicle. 

Is this correct, or is he talking boo-hockey? (See what I did there!)  The vehicle was in getting the cladding re-attached, so I don't want to give them any excuse if it starts to come off again.

 

Many thanks,

 

Fin

Not sure why some people are spending so much money when you can get these item for not much cash....

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-pad-with-2-slots-hydraulic-ramp-jack-jacking-pad-adapter-trolley-jack-/261449880482?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3cdfa093a2

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-pad-rubber-block-hydraulic-ramp-jack-pads-jacking-pad-adapter-/261449877080?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3cdfa08658

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pinch-Weld-Trolley-Jack-Adapter-Rubber-pad-rubber-block-hydraulic-ramp-/261449877717?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3cdfa088d5

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jacking-Jack-pad-adaptor-rubber-block-Porsche-TVR-VW-TDi-classic-car-/251502337367?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3a8eb51d57

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A1-Rubber-Jack-Pad-Trolley-Jack-adapter-Pinch-weld-Rubber-block-/261449878043?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cdfa08a1b

My L&K has the golf ball (not sure if this is the same stuff?) cladding running the length of the inner sill.

I use a shaped wooden block with no problems - hockey puck would be the same.

Apologies for resurrecting this thread.

 

Question for Scout owners who have jacked up their vehicles using the hockey puck; did you use the grooved or non grooved puck?  According to my local dealer I should not use the grooved puck as I may damage the Scout cladding fitted to the underside of the vehicle. 

Is this correct, or is he talking boo-hockey? (See what I did there!)  The vehicle was in getting the cladding re-attached, so I don't want to give them any excuse if it starts to come off again.

 

Many thanks,

 

Fin

On my Scout I used an un grooved hockey puck just behind the seam, without any problems.

Jack on the subframe or remove the plastic undershield and jack on the chassis leg, it'll be fine.

Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk

Not sure why some people are spending so much money when you can get these item for not much cash....

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-pad-with-2-slots-hydraulic-ramp-jack-jacking-pad-adapter-trolley-jack-/261449880482?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3cdfa093a2

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-pad-rubber-block-hydraulic-ramp-jack-pads-jacking-pad-adapter-/261449877080?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3cdfa08658

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pinch-Weld-Trolley-Jack-Adapter-Rubber-pad-rubber-block-hydraulic-ramp-/261449877717?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3cdfa088d5

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jacking-Jack-pad-adaptor-rubber-block-Porsche-TVR-VW-TDi-classic-car-/251502337367?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item3a8eb51d57

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A1-Rubber-Jack-Pad-Trolley-Jack-adapter-Pinch-weld-Rubber-block-/261449878043?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cdfa08a1b

Because, on my car at least, none of those will do the job.

Because, on my car at least, none of those will do the job.

The hockey puck method works fine and causes no damage....

So I don't understand what you have done?

Because, on my car at least, none of those will do the job.

?????????????