Joe's E30 325i Sport

[Paul007]

Rotten luck. No pun intended. 

[TriggerFish]

Copy and paste update, so some background if I've missed it from this forum. There was an alarm inside the car, which I had to remove to get the loom out. On trying to start the car, there's an extra alarm/immo under the bonnet, which I'm still trying to work around. It's this alarm I reference next.

 

I went over to it again today to try and get it to start, and to try and work out what the remaining alarm is. The other alarm I'm still not sure about, but it only seems to tie into the fuel pump relay and a sensor to see if the bonnet is open. I'm not sure how this is then linked to the ignition?! I'll just remove it completely and see what happens after remaking the connections at the fuel pump replay. While tracing more wires, I also found the radio is being feed directly from the battery point under the bonnet, and not the proper socket behind the glovebox. Fantastic. 

 

Anyway, that aside, while I was poking around in the foot well tracing the alarm wires, I came across, you guessed it, rust!

 

The final repair that I had to mention several times to get done, was a fibre-glassed hole in the top right on the driver's foot well. I noticed that there was some flaking on the paint of the repair, so I started prodding, and what do you know? There's a hole there still! It looks as though a plate was secured (not sure how) from the inside and painted, so at first glance when I inspected it prior to collection, it was solid and looked good. When you look from behind though, it's not so good. There's some sort of expanding foam type stuff, and no metal that I can see. 

 

Anyway, some photos should make my point as I'm not great at describing stuff...

 

This one shows the plate, with the paint starting to flake off a bit.

 

 

This one shows a separate small hole on the edge of the battery box corner

 

 

This one the foam

 

 

And now with a screwdriver inserted to check where the hole really was. (You can also see the great standard of wiring present through the car!)

 

 

 

You can see the rest of the arch has been under-sealed or stone chipped or something, except this foamy/masticy stuff, so it's clearly been put there afterwards, and isn't left over from the PO's bodges.

 

(Thankfully I was testing a Canon 100d for work for the weekend, so I was able to fit the camera between the wheel and the arch to get some photos, which my D600 would never have been able to do.)

[VAGaddict]

Nice project. Don't give up on it. I sold mine last year, I had owned it 13 years. Was gutted to let, probably one of the hardest decisions of my life but it go but it needed more work than I had the time for. Couple of pictures...

http://imageshack.com/a/img37/6152/cimg7470.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img40/7060/cimg14862ep.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img40/7060/cimg14862ep.jpg

If someone could fix the links for me please

Edited 16 March, 2015 by VAGaddict

[BobIzYaUncle]

Nice project. Don't give up on it. I sold mine last year, I had owned it 13 years. Was gutted to let, probably one of the hardest decisions of my life but it go but it needed more work than I had the time for. Couple of pictures...

http://imageshack.com/a/img37/6152/cimg7470.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img40/7060/cimg14862ep.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img40/7060/cimg14862ep.jpg

If someone could fix the links for me please

lovely car mate, such a shame to let it go

[VAGaddict]

lovely car mate, such a shame to let it go

Unfortunately growing family and work commitments came first. It didn't look anything like that when I sold it. Needed welding in most of the usual places. Rear tubs being the worst. Might buy another one one day

[TriggerFish]

Cheers They do look good in white! (I wanted white, but couldn't find one)

 

I've got the old girl running now (two wires shorted out defeats the immobiliser (nice!). Currently in the middle of a cam belt/water pump change which has escalated into a steering rack upgrade, which is proving to be a pain! Hopefully once that's done a weekend should see it MOT ready, and once it's got a 12 month ticket, I can start fitting the interior in properly.

[TriggerFish]

Time for another back dated update!

 

It starts! After tracing some wiring back and remaking the connections from the first alarm, I thought I was ready to go. It turned out though that there was a second immo/alarm installed, one believed to be from new by the dealer. Anyway, that's gone too now (all it did was disable the fuel pump relay. Short two wires and it's over ridden...)

 

 

It was running really smokily (not a word!), and wouldn't idle on it's own. I later remembered I'd not connected the rocker cover breather pipe, so there was unmetered air entering the head, and the throttle body. Once that pipe was connected, it idles perfectly.

 

 

 

Since this happy moment, I've managed to change the cam belt (never done one before, but it's beautifully easy on this car, not a terrible prospect like my old Polo!). While doing this though, a couple of bolts snapped, one of which meant we had to remove the PAS pump and alternator. Given the PAS pump is now easily accessible, it seemed like a good time to change the PAS rack for a faster one, as you need new lines which, invariably, connect to the PAS pump and look like a pain to access once buried under an alternator and air filter. (This is proving to be a right pain of a job though.)

 

While the cambelt change was going on and the car was apart, I took the time to clean/refurb various parts using either paint, 303 aerospace, or just soap & water. I doubt anyone will ever see these parts, but it keeps me happy!

 

Water pump pulley

 

 

 

Water pipe that runs across the front of the block.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TriggerFish]

And with this update, we're up to date. (The steering rack is still ongoing.)

 

 

For the last two days I've been off work with a temperature and a headache, so rather than moping around watching TV or laying in bed, I've been cleaning some bits up when I've felt well enough. Nothing earth breaking, but it's helped keep me sane (how the career unemployed aren't all bored out of their minds, I'll never know!) and would have annoyed me if they'd gone onto the car dirty.

 

The centre caps on the wheels were a little tatty (but perfectly serviceable). New from BMW they're something like £45 a corner as they came with the cover for the wheel nuts too, but happily, they also sell embossed metal stickers to cover the originals for a much more reasonable £5, so I cleaned the originals and stuck these on. (For Stu's sake, I'll make sure they're in line with the valve covers.)

 

 

The boot lock release also got a wash, but it still looked crap (and had some bubbles in it) so I sanded it down, and sprayed it black. Previously it had a slightly rubberised finish, but it's so tucked away it'll never really be seen anyway.

 

 

 

 

Next, I turned my attention to the pile of (confusing) rubber trims I had laying around. I didn't photograph all of these, but it's amazing how much dirt is accumulated in these things - esp. the

felt window runners.

 

 

Before:

 

 

 

And after some washing with an old flannel, a toothbrush and some washing up liquid:

 

 

 

And the number plate was measured/aligned ready to be fitted (the bolts are behind the plate, so I have to mount the surround to the car first).

 

 

This also arrived this afternoon from BMW. A battery tray, securing bolt/bracket for the battery, and a rubber seal for the sunroof. £107 for this lot! 

 

 

The £20 bolt(!):

 

 

Other little jobs included refitting the rear lights, which has made a massive difference to how finished it looks as you approach the car.

 

 

The same was true for the front lights/grills, but then I realised I'll need to remove the grills to aim them properly. D'oh.

 

 

And the speedo fitted ready for the MOT.

 

 

Still a long way to go, but once this rack is done, I think it should be MOTable fairly quickly as long as I've not lost any parts (I'm not sure where the seat belts are...)

[BobIzYaUncle]

cool update

[TriggerFish]

Lots of missed updates, but the headline is: it lives!

 

Need to book an MOT, get some of the bodges fixed at the same time, and then I can finish fitting the right wings, the rest of the bumper, spoiler etc. Insurance is coming back at under £300 too, which I'm happy with considering it's not a classic policy (I'm not old enough), and I've not got any NCB to apply to this car.





 

[TriggerFish]

Loooots of updates missed with this, but here's a quick run down of where it stands now... Some bits copied/pasted from my main thread on the BMW forums, so apologies for any slightly disjointed commentary!

 

I took it for an MOT - it failed miserably! Some bits I was expecting, others came as a surprise. The fail sheet is quite long but the headlines where the welds done previously weren't up to MOT standards! I took it back, and had those redone (at which point they also managed to put a cutting disk through a brake pipe - luckily I noticed before joining the road!). After fixing some other little bits like headlight aim and a faded indicator, it passed Remaining advisories were for brake hard lines/fuel pipes being perished, and low tyre tread (4mm - not that low?). Either way, I had a set of new Bridgestones waiting to go on, so no hardship there.

 

After getting the MOT in place, I moved on to tidying up the remaining bits, ready to refit the interior. For the MOT I just had the driver's seat, and the speedo cable tied onto the steering column - perfectly MOT friendly, apparently! This started with mundane jobs like replacing all the loom tape - it makes it a lot easier, and nicer to handle the loom.

 

 

 

While adding some new wiring into the car, I studied one of the repairs to the sill for the first time. The floor and sill had become two separate parts of the car, so they've added a panel in to reattach them. Who can see what's wrong with this photo?

 

 

Still can't see? Maybe this helps?

 

 

That's right! They've only welded the replacement panel at the bottom - it's not attached to sill at the top! 

 

I noticed this around 1-2pm on Sunday, and was due to return the welder I had borrowed from a friend for something on Sunday afternoon, so it was a rushed job to patch it back up. As much as this welder is so much easier to use than ours, and I can do a decent weld on two sheets of flat, clean metal, this was beyond me. 

 

So out again comes the welder, complete with a new fire extinguisher after I broke the old one... ("Single use discharge. DO NOT TEST" was wasted on me...)

 

 

Next up, I moved on to replacing the interior now all the groundworks had been done.

 

Dashboard in  I was expecting this to be a terrible job, but it only took about 2 minutes (with my mum to help).

 

 

I've also started to add some sound damping. Dunno if it's going to make much difference, but here's hoping! (I started by cutting into neatish sections, then got bored, and just started using it as sheets/half sheets. I've also covered the whole bulkhead under the dash too, as well as replacing the foam gasket from the heaterbox to the air vents)

 

 

 

 

The rear spoiler wasn't polished when I first got it back, so I returned it a while ago to be done. It came back, and I've since noticed only some of it was polished  I've just had a go myself, and while it feels so much better, it still looks weird. I think this needs a professional to have a go, or redoing again. Let's see how that discussion goes...

 

Before (some of this is dust from living behind my bed for the last few months...)

 

 

 

Notice the differences in shade though, and the dullness?

 

After some 1500 grit paper, and some generic polish, it looks and feels much better, but the two shade of paint are still present.

 

 

 

This (one of many) hella runs shows it was at least lacquered...

 

 

And from afar. At least it doesn't hold me up at all, but how hard is it to just do a job properly in the first place?!

[TriggerFish]

Well, as some of you know/have seen, this is more or less done now.  Woo!

 

There's a few little bits that I need to do, like refit the front speakers, adjust the steering column cowl, fit the boot carpets, but it's a fully functional, perfectly drivable car!  And yes, everything inside needs a very good clean. I just took it out of storage, wiped the cobwebs off, and threw it in. No deep cleaning or anything has been done yet.

 

From BMW Show, Santa Pod

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It hit the 175k milestone yesterday too. Next on my list: replacement engine. The tapping from mine is driving me mad at speeds above 50ish!

 

 

 

So, now I've actually spent some time driving it (I was commuting last week), what's it like? Well, it's not economical! I think I'm getting in the region of 20-25mpg. Not horrific, but not exactly good. I was expecting 25-30mpg, so maybe it's a bit worse than expected.

 

It's also now on new Bridgestone Potenza tyres, rather than 2003's finest Goodyears. This has made a massive difference! Comparisons are to my 330d. It's clearly not a modern car, this one being from 1989 (it was an F plate, before someone added the stupid dateless plate), but it's perfectly liveable day to day. It's not as fast as my 330d, and nor is the engine as relaxing, but it's perfectly able to hold it's own, and overtake slow traffic (like buses!). However, the engine is a lot more flexible, as it will happily sit in 5th at 20-25mph. Sure, it's not fast, but the 330d won't let me into fifth without complaint until I'm going at least 50mph. The engine is really, really, really loud though. It's not exhaust noise, it's just a constant tapping. I've done the valve clearances, but it's still there (turned out, as discovered several months after I first wrote this, that there's at least one snapped exhaust manifold stud). Once about 50mph, it's an all consuming noise. If you put it into neutral, and let the engine idle, it's actually a nice, fairly refined place to me. It's louder than the 330d, but much quieter than, say, a friend's Fiesta.

 

Comfort is good too. The seats are much more supportive than the 330, which seems to be made for the more... portly driver, but the back is a bit thin, and if you sit wrong, there seems to be a lack of padding. Ride is much, much better than the 'd. It's so smooth in comparison. It seems to handle bumps/ridges better, although it is more rolly. Handling, I don't know, as I haven't pushed it yet, but the steering is great. Very talkative, but not annoyingly so. Nice and direct with the 067 rack (fast rack from an e46), and with new track rods/couplers etc, there's no slack either. I maybe wish it were a little heavier though, as it's more assisted than the 330d. The steering wheel feels lovely and small too, although I think it's 370mm, the same as the 'd, but the rim itself isn't as chunky.

 

Controls: Brakes? They stop the car. That's about all I can say in their favour! Well that, and they look good behind the tiny wheels (it's all proportionate!) They're very spongy, and I much prefer the modern brakes on the 'd. Much more confidence inspiring, and more progressive/feel in them. Throttle - nice short travel. I prefer this to the longer travel. Even with a new cable though, it's quite stiff, which makes heel and toe a bit tricky. As a result, I often lurch downshifts, something made worse by the pedal spacing being a bit off for me. Not a massive problem, but the later car is an improvement in this respect. The clutch is fine - it's a clutch, it only does one job, but the pedal is heavy. Not a problem for me, but it means the first few times I use a modern clutch, I end up punching the bulkhead with my foot (also known as kicking, I guess!).

 

The seating position in the 330d is much nicer for me. It's lower in the car, and I can sit with my legs more outstretched. The e30 forces me to sit with my legs tucked a bit behind the steering wheel, otherwise I can't fully let the clutch up. Add in the fact that the seat is a bit higher from the floor, and it's not as nice. It's not bad, and driven in isolation is absolutely fine. The steering wheel does obscure the (inaccurate) speedo between 60-80 though!

 

So, the 330d does represent a bit improvement over the e30, but the e30 is still a perfectly usable car in today's world, even 33 years after it's release. The biggest let down for me to stop it being a daily? MPG, crash test safety (what safety?!) and the fear of rust/need for upkeep. I'd still say that the e30 is a nicer car than something like my parent's 2007 1.6 Ford Focus (mk2). It drives, steering, handles, rides better - all impressive for such an age gap.

 

My dad drove it for the first time the other day and his response was 'I can see why these were popular in the 80's!'.

 

I worked out the mpg today, bang on 25. Considering a fair amount of time was spent idling trying to revive the 330d after its battery died, that's not too bad.

 

I was also talking to my mum about how fast it is. On the way home, I found a nicely resurfaced long straight quiet back road, so it seemed a shame to pass the opportunity up!

 

 

Meant to be 7.7 or7.2 I think, so not great! My other run was 10.3 - there's time to be found in the gear changes, but meh.

 

I went with my dad (no chance an engine would fit in the back of my car with its tiny boot aperture...) to Monkey World in Wareham to pick up my 'new' M20B25 engine. I'll pick up one of those portable engine stands and make a start on stripping it down. My engine has lost of its coolant again, so it's not healthy. Add this to the burning oil, which is very watery, and seems to stay at a fixed level, and it's looking a bit terminal for my head. I fear leaving it too long will end up with water as a lubricant. Still, it's nearly winter, so it'll be off the road anyway, so no rush to rebuild it.

 

 

I've managed to fit the boot carpets (still not done the torsion bars for the boot lid, so excuse the wood!), and found an old school service sticker. Check out the 10 digit phone number!

 

 

While doing the boot carpets, it seemed like a good time to fit my MS-8 DSP/amp. This is only the second amp I've fitted, but I'm pleased with it. I think it's a neat, clean install. Miles better than the first one I did anyway!

 

 

 

The MS-8 itself though is very, very impressive! It's a full digital signal processor/EQ and a low powered amp too (30w x8 IIRC). It's being driven by my old 1980's FM radio, and has a separate aux in for my bluetooth streamer. Luckily, it has five different profiles, so I can set the EQ etc. for the radio independently of the aux input.

 

It makes the FM radio really come alive, and adds a clarity and depth to the music that wasn't present before. It handles aux inputs nicely too. The speakers, considering their small size (5.25") sound pretty decent. Nice and clear with no distortion with fairly clear highs, without being too harsh. Bass isn't amazing, as expected, but it's adequate, and sufficient that I won't bother with a sub (which I didn't really want to do). The trim copes very well too, with only a slight rattle from the passenger's speaker cover on prolonged heavy bass notes. Having a 31 frequency EQ, I'm sure I can tune that out with a bit of tweaking. For me, the volume is fine without the need for an external, high powered amp, which the MS-8 can drive.

 

The other impressive thing is the isolation of the music from outside the car. I'm not sure if it's a result of the sound deadening, but it's a lot quieter standing outside the E30 with music on than it is the 330d, which lets a lot more noise out.

 

My only gripe with the whole system is the need for a separate screen to control the unit/change input sources etc. Still, not the end of the world.

Edited 29 March, 2016 by TriggerFish

[TriggerFish]

So at this point, it was going fairly well until one fateful night on the way home from a blood donation session (just what I wanted after being stabbed with a massive needle!)

 

 

Caused still not confirmed, but either the head or the head gasket gave in.

 

I won't put details of the engine build here, mainly as it's patchy coverage, and my phone broke, so there's no photos anyway, but the engine pictured previously in currently being rebuild into a 2.8l. I've got the head together, complete with uprated duration/lift Schrick camshaft, new rocker arms and new rocker shafts. The lower end is together with M52B28 crank shaft, M20B20 conrods, and lightened M20B25 pistons. I just need to mate the head with the engine (waiting on one oil seal to arrive), and then I can get it paired with the gearbox ready to fit. Power estimates are 200-220bhp. Not masses, but up to 100 more than what I estimate I had before based on 0-60 times.

 

 

To get the engine out, I had to disconnect/remove the exhaust, so I could unbolt the prop. With the prop out, it seemed like a good time to do the guibo bush, and the prop support bearing. While the prop/exhaust are off (painful jobs!) it seemed like the best time to do something about the MOT advisory brake lines/fuel pipes.

 

However, to get to those, I have to drop the rear subframe, so I might as well do the diff bush, and subframe bushes, and the rear trailing arm bushes. Basically a full rear end rebuild. Given this, I also got new ARB mounts front/rear, and new front wishbone bushes. While everything is out from under the car, I will give it a good coat of some chassis paint/protection. I love it when things escalate.

 

 

 

Anyway, that's me up to date as the engine rebuild/chassis refresh is still ongoing.

[BobIzYaUncle]

So at this point, it was going fairly well until one fateful night on the way home from a blood donation session (just what I wanted after being stabbed with a massive needle!)

Caused still not confirmed, but either the head or the head gasket gave in.

I won't put details of the engine build here, mainly as it's patchy coverage, and my phone broke, so there's no photos anyway, but the engine pictured previously in currently being rebuild into a 2.8l. I've got the head together, complete with uprated duration/lift Schrick camshaft, new rocker arms and new rocker shafts. The lower end is together with M52B28 crank shaft, M20B20 conrods, and lightened M20B25 pistons. I just need to mate the head with the engine (waiting on one oil seal to arrive), and then I can get it paired with the gearbox ready to fit. Power estimates are 200-220bhp. Not masses, but up to 100 more than what I estimate I had before based on 0-60 times.

To get the engine out, I had to disconnect/remove the exhaust, so I could unbolt the prop. With the prop out, it seemed like a good time to do the guibo bush, and the prop support bearing. While the prop/exhaust are off (painful jobs!) it seemed like the best time to do something about the MOT advisory brake lines/fuel pipes.

However, to get to those, I have to drop the rear subframe, so I might as well do the diff bush, and subframe bushes, and the rear trailing arm bushes. Basically a full rear end rebuild. Given this, I also got new ARB mounts front/rear, and new front wishbone bushes. While everything is out from under the car, I will give it a good coat of some chassis paint/protection. I love it when things escalate.

Anyway, that's me up to date as the engine rebuild/chassis refresh is still ongoing.

Just been catching up on this as Ive been away from here for a while. Youve had your fair share of ups and downs on this one mate.

Hope everything goes smoothly for you here on

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[sigarland1987]

I reckon a 3.0 Six from a 530i would go well in this

 

Are you heading to Santa Pod this year, if so will keep an eye out for it!

[JoshH]

Nice work Joe! Never ending project these E30's lol

[Paul007]

Nice job. Dare we ask, has it been expensive so far ?

[TriggerFish]

I've been pretty crap and keeping this up to date anyway. I'll endeavour to do better

 

An M54 would be pretty decent, but I'm too much of a purist, so I'll be sticking with a stroked out M20. I've just finished building it (surprisingly easy, much to my surprise!), and now I've got to prep the engine bay for the engine. I'm not really in it for the speed, so the extra bit of power of a later 24v wouldn't bother me too much. 

 

Possibly be at Santa Pod - depends if any of my friends go again and if it's not broken again! At least the stupid vanity plate makes it easy to spot

 

Cheers Josh - and yeah - never ending is a good phrase! Yours is looking awesome as though!

 

Regarding expense, I stopped keeping track a while ago, but some ballpark figures would be: £4,750 for the car, £4,500 for the respray/welding (hoping to recoup some of this once it runs again and I can finally take it back) somewhere in the region of £1,200 for the engine (replacement engine, new crank/rods/bearings/shells/upgraded-high lift camshaft/rocker arms/shafts/gaskets). Add in around £1,000 - £1,5000 (I'd guess) for other bits for stuff like audio, new dashboard, trim bits, bushes/bearings, materials, two spare sets of wheels, new tyres, fuel back and forth to the car. That's a rough ball park and most likely conservative. It's not worth what I've spent, I know that much. (Yet - they are still appreciating...) I don't really want to think about it too much though! All I know is I'm in the process of buying my first house, and the money spent on this would have boosted my deposit nicely. Doesn't help I keep buying things and then giving them away again!

 

All of this was £10.50. So far away I've given away the gearbox (keeping a 2002 touring on the road, so that's good!) and some other trim bits, which could have been sold for profit, but I'd rather help others than cash in. Even if I just use one window motor, or the ABS ECU from that pile and give the rest away, I'll be quids in as they sell for over £10.50 alone.

 

 

 

Oh well! #YOLO (Or something equally cringey that I'd never say in real life!)

Edited 8 April, 2016 by TriggerFish

[Paul007]

As a bit of inspiration -

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-318i-SPORT-M-TECH-2-SWAP-2-8-M52-REMAPPED-230BHP-LHD-/152023943847?hash=item2365554aa7:g:dxYAAOSw2ENW8EBQ

[TriggerFish]

I'd say that that will struggle to sell at that price, personally. Esp. as it's LHD. Still, shows the trend nicely.

 

As does this madness: http://jalopnik.com/so-its-come-to-this-dealer-asks-200-000-for-bmw-e30-m-1767817410

[Paul007]

No way. £200k. What planet is he on. I knew the other was LHD but as you say, indicates desireabilty.

[pipsyp]

Lovely to see an E30 Sport being put straight....lovely old car.

It's got to be said BMW did and still do know how to make a perfect steering wheel!

[TriggerFish]

Apart from the thermostat housing, the engine is all done now. 

 

(The cambelt covers have been fitted now, along with a brand new distributor/rotor arm.)

 

It looks a little bit cleaner than this now, but mostly it's hidden in the engine bay, so it's 'good enough'. It's not going to be concourse levels as that removes the fun of driving

 

 

I also found a nice simple way to fight the 'bitch tube' single handedly. Worked nicely, and went together first time without any problems at all. Last time I tried to replace the inlet manifold I had a nightmare fighting that crappy breather pipe! Rotational engine stands made this so much easier, as those manifolds are fairly heavy when trying to manhandle them into small spaces.

 

 

 

This weekend's work saw the subframe/diff/wishbones finally out and ready for bush replacement. This was a painful job, as the metal inserts of the bushes attach themselves to the metal if the chassis. To get them out, we ended up tapping/screwing a big bolt into the bottom of the bush, and then going inside the car and using a long pipe inserted into the bush resting against the bolt, we used a hammer to smack it free. 

Annoyingly, one of the handbrake cables is stuck in the hub, and the consequence of breaking it means I'm too scared to risk removing it, so all work on the trailing arms will have to be done under the car. Yay. I did manage to remove the subframe itself though, so I can at least get a garage to replace those bushes and save myself a whole world of pain!

 

And to finish off the fun of the weekend, I've just ordered a new clutch (£94 after cashback/vouchers). The seller told me that it had had a new one, and it does look pretty fresh, but given the size of the job to replace it, I'm not going to risk it! I also ordered some 3M Body Shutz undersealing/sound deadening stuff. The factory underseal is in good condition, and I can't see any breakages anywhere, but while everything underneath the car is off, I'd be stupid not to give it another coat or two to be sure.

 

[BobIzYaUncle]

Excellent mate

Sent from my UMI TOUCH using Tapatalk

[JoshH]

Top work mate. The handbrake cables do tend to get stuck in the hubs but they are easy(ish) to remove. I got mine hot and wangled it out