My saga starts when I pressed the brake peddle which went down to the floor (NO BRAKES).

I found that the rear nearside brake calliper had dumped all the brake fluid on the floor from where the hand brake attaches.

There was no fluid left in the brake master cylinder.

The calliper has been replaced & all 4 wheels have been bled using a Sealey brake & clutch bleeding system (1 man)

 

The car has good brakes BUT the peddle is very spongy, when you pump the peddle & keep pressure upon it the peddle slowly sinks.

Which says to me that there is still air in the system??

 

Is there a special way to bleed the system?

Or am I just missing something simple??

 

Any HELP would be much appreciated!!

 

Many thanks

Roger

I would say just revisit the bleeding with your easy bleed, be patient, use new fluid and ensure all bubbles of air have been bled out.

 

Does the Fabia have bleed nipples on the master cylinder?? the Golf does and these also need to be bled off as well as each brake calliper.

If the pedal is spongy it sounds like there's still air in it. I used a Gunson's Eezibleed on mine which worked very well.

 

Hi 

thanks for the info.

Iam not sure about the bleed nipples on the master cylinder. Will look into that.

 

Another suggestion was when all the fluid had drained out & the system was refilled & bled air gets trapped inside the ABS pump & to bleed that the ABS needs to be activated whilst bleeding.

 

This obviously requires some machine that I dont have.

 

Any ideas on this??

 

Thanks again

Roger

 VCDS will purge your ABS module, anybody local to you can do that for you?

From memory if the master cylinder is emptied when you refill the system you have to initially bleed the system by doing both front wheels together then both rears together. This is separate from using VCDS to purge the abs block.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Oh and you should bleed the clutch too as it shares the fluid reservoir.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

For fear of sounding thick.

 

What is VCDS.??

 

I bled the system as per the Haynes manual which was:-

 

1. nearside rear

2. offside rear

3. nearside front

4. offside front

 

From whats been said thats wrong?

 

If the clutch appears all ok & gear selection is as before does it still require bleeding?

VCDS is a cable and software which work like the dealer diagnostics equipment.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

If the clutch appears all ok & gear selection is as before does it still require bleeding?

 

Nope. If it's working it will be fine. Just because it shares the reservoir doesn't mean it's going to get air in it. They are separate systems.

thanks for all the info much appreciated.

 

can i ask what the brake bleeding procedure is if the master cylinder has been emptied. 

 

From memory if the master cylinder is emptied when you refill the system you have to initially bleed the system by doing both front wheels together then both rears together. This is separate from using VCDS to purge the abs block.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

 Is this the case??

thanks for all the info much appreciated.

can i ask what the brake bleeding procedure is if the master cylinder has been emptied.

Is this the case??

It was in the Haynes manual IIRC.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

thanks again.

 

what does IIRC mean??

If I remember correctly

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

I would try to bleed the brakes again, I just recently bled mine after changing all pads and discs, I never expected such a huge difference in braking power just bleeding the system and was shocked how much air and thin mucky fluid was in there. I never even realised just how "spongey" my brakes were until I bled them..

I just used a 1 meter length of clear tube from homebase and a clear plastic water bottle, use a syringe/turkey baster and take old fluid out of the resovoir and put it in the plastic bottle (be sure not to take out too much, I took mine down to about half inch below minimum. Then fill up almost to top of the cap and screw the resovoir cap on. Put a spanner over the bleed nipple (10mm I believe) and push one end of the rubber tube over the nipple, then submerge the other end of the tube in the old brake fluid in the plastic bottle (it has to be all the way to the bottom so air cant travel back into the caliper. If the tube sucks up anything it will only be fluid not air. Once you crack the bleed nipple open (1/4 turn) you may or may not see air bubbles coming out at least I did with mine, you can then push the brake pedal all the way to the floor slowly and release slowly, repeat 5/6 times and check the tube on the bleed nipple if the tube is filled with fluid and no air then close the bleed nipple and use a paper towel / rag to hold the very end of the tube and pinch it off the nipple to reduce spillage. Dont forget to keep an eye on the fluid level, if it gets too low then air can be sucked into the master cyclinder and you will have to bleed entire system. This method worked perfectly for me, my brake pedal has never felt so good and solid and the brakes in general other than replacing all the pads and discs, are excellent. Be sure to pump the brake 5 or 6 times as far down as you can whem you are finished before you test your brakes, and make sure that when you bleed the rear brakes that the handbrake is off.

It only took me around 35-40 minutes including a fag break and having to do 2 sides at a time due to only having 2 axle stands..

If it doesnt work and your pedal still travels to the floor, then push the brake down to where it does feel like theres some resistance and hold it there. If your foot slowly sinks then it could indicate a leak somewhere in the system or possibly trapped air in the ABS modules? In which case I would try to get a mechanic to look it over.

Good luck

Edited 11 August, 201411 yr by FabiaJames