So I've recently bought an Octy Mk2 with a BKC 1.9 TDI PD engine - non DPF variety.

 

It's thrown up a warning light, so took it to my friendly local garage and stuck a Snap On Solus on it and read the fault codes present. Cleared the codes and took it for a run out. After about another 15 miles the light was back and the code returned was:

 

P0401 - Insufficient EGR Flow

 

The car was supplied with a warranty, so hopefully this will be rectified under a claim - so all warranty supplied parts will have to be original spec (OEM or Pattern)..

 

I've been reading around the subject on here for a while now, but have not started invasive trouble shooting yet.

 

I'm aware that this could be a MAF sensor fault or a vacuum actuator fault, but if the worst is true and the EGR valve is faulty, I have a few options available - and I wanted to run through them here for some advice and thoughts from people with a little more experience.

 

My aim is to achieve increased reliability and the ability to drive in the most economical style that I can - rather than achieve the most power from the engine.

 

 

Options:

 

1: (only If warranty won't accept claim) Remove as necessary - ASV, EGR valve, exhaust return pipe, inlet manifold. Clean them up and try to free off EGR. Perform a Crank Case Vent mod (either to catch can or to atmos) to stop crank case oil venting into the air intake system and combining with the recirculated exhaust gas.

 

2: Same as above, but replacing the EGR valve with an OEM part from Darkside.

 

3: Same as options 1/2 but blank off the EGR exhaust return and use VCDS to turn off EGR in the ECU to stop warning lights.

 

4: Same as option 3 but instead of fitting an EGR valve, using an EGR delete kit to completely isolate the air supply system from the exhaust system.

 

 

Option 3 to my mind seems to be the most flexible solution in terms of being able to reverse any modifications in case of any future changes to MOT testing, and will also *look* the most stock if inspected. (Currently it is my primary choice).

 

It seems to me that Option 4 effectively achieves the same job as Option 3, but is mainly intended to give greater air flow for remapped cars seeking more power from their remap. Is this correct?

 

What are peoples thoughts on these options? Are there any down sides to option 3 that I have not considered? Can the EGR be turned off using VCDS - full version and free?

 

Cheers,

BRSKE.

sounds like a clean up if no-go on the warranty but to turn off the light you would have to pay someone -not cheap --unless someone on here knows different  unless you're going to start modding egr delete etc would be a waste of money--in my opinion

Edited 9 August, 201411 yr by cheshire cat

Yes keeping the engine management light off after an EGR delete requires a remap, it's not just a case of turning off the EGR with VCDS.

If you really want to disable the EGR and can live with the light being on all the time then just pop the rubber vacuum pipe off the EGR actuator and plug the end of the rubber pipe with a bolt - instant EGR delete at zero cost! Also very easily reversible in the future, if necessary.

another method is to fit a blanking plate with a small hole which prevents the EML coming on, the part is available from your local VAG dealership or TPS and costs only £2 to £3

 

here is the part number

028 131 547 B

 

sound advice :clap:

So, that was a busy month. Hopefully my involvement will be less sporadic from now on.

 

Quick update. Car has had the EGR valve replaced - contemplating the option of disabling the EGR by disconnecting the vacuum pipe - however as I'd like to know about further exhaust system faults I'd be looking to remap if I do that. For the moment it'll stay connected.

 

Now I have a hot starting problem that needs resolving before the warranty expires..

 

Cheers,

BRSKE