Hello! JASON here. Using mate's laptop.

Made a bit more progress today.

Boost guage has been given a custom pod to sit in - All wired in and WELL secured to the inlet manifold. Its official - TDIs do show negative boost - but only when turning off engine - slips down to -0.5bar. Earth tapped into chassis in fuse area and power taken from headlight switch so it only lights at night.

Also got the HU wired in and working - sounding very nice again. :speaker: In the long run all the subs & amps will go in, but maybe not for a little while.

Gear stick issue seems to have lightened up by itself too. :confused: It takes the same amount of force now to move one way or the other, but it just doesn't fall back into the 3rd/4th gate from 1st/2nd straight away - like it does from 5th/6th. Won't be an issue when driving so going to leave it. All 6 gears are at least there, and reverse of course

Off to play golf again in a second. See ya all later

If anyone wants to help me a little bit, I have an extra wire in the engine which is unallocated.\ It comes off the area where the o/s headlight plug is - It splits into three - one for the foglight, then this other one on quite a long way, with two "clips" on it that would appear to secure it in to something, then a two pin style plug on the end,\like the one for the foglights only slightly smaller.

getting there. If my throttle had arrived today I'd have been out on the road in it.

sounds good, whens the little test?

When I get the throttle & brake sender fitted, and when the front bumper is ready. Need to chase that up actually. No point going for a test without a front bumper at all.

If anyone wants to help me a little bit, I have an extra wire in the engine which is unallocated.\ It comes off the area where the o/s headlight plug is - It splits into three - one for the foglight, then this other one on quite a long way, with two "clips" on it that would appear to secure it in to something, then a two pin style plug on the end,\like the one for the foglights only slightly smaller.

Outside temp sensor wire maybe? I have no idea really, but I know that lives down that part of the engine bay

Chris

Nope - thats on the end of its own wire ready to be re-fitted when the bumper returns. I thought it might be for the alarm unit to attach to but its not long enough to reach, unless the siren sits somewhere down by the wheel arch?

Nope - thats on the end of its own wire ready to be re-fitted when the bumper returns. I thought it might be for the alarm unit to attach to but its not long enough to reach, unless the siren sits somewhere down by the wheel arch?

Ah yes I'm pretty sure the siren does sit by the wheel arch so it may be that. Need someone with ETKA/ETOS to find out for sure

Chris

looking on etos the siren is at the back

but the bonnet catch is part of the alarm J, sure it doesn't go there?

I was about to say bonnet catch swtich myself

I was about to say bonnet catch swtich myself

Ohhhh, is that an actual switch? I always figured it was some kind of lever? I shall be checking this out. Many thanks.

(not tested it as its been in "up" for about 3 months )

There is a micro switch in the bottom of the catch on the slam panel.

There is a micro switch in the bottom of the catch on the slam panel.

The most odd thing I'm wondering about now is WHERE THE F*** is the wire for this siren then?

Accounted for every loose wire I think there is, apart from the apparenr "Xenon" thingy down in the back. I think if the siren is down inbetween the wiper motors, when my windscreen is renewed on Monday (its not cracked right from top to bottom ) I'll get my mate to take a good look in there. )

Just wondering - Is the alarm something I can totally deactivate with vag-com. TBH, at the moment there is no need to have an alarm, at least not until I can be sure it will work correctly (and with the remote on the key being dead due to the "frequuency" issue, then there's no point as I'll be unlocking the car with the old keys using the door locks for a little while)