I took the many recommendations to use London Colour from this long-running thread...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264447-hid-aftermaket-kit-help-for-definitive-how-to/

Sorry, I should have said that London Colour is their eBay trading name...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XENON-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-H1-H3-H7-H9-H11-HB3-HB4-9006-/330379335700

 

I'm no expert but the ballasts seem very good quality, silicone not plastic cable, metal base, not plastic, ceramic insulation not glued etc.

Wouldnt mind a much higher quality hid kit tbh, i just dont know where to get a really good one. Everywhere seems to sell pretty similar kits.

 

Even high quality, instant-on, 100W+ HID kit will at most have the effective range of halogens when retrofitted in high beams, as I stated before, this depends on peak intensity of filament, and though HID puts out 3x - 9x more light, the size of the vapour ball that this light comes from is much bigger than a H7 filament. I tried 75W HID burners and close up they appeared to be blinding, but far away they barely matched halogen. 50W kit over 35W burners is slightly better (smaller arc). HID really needs custom reflector to increase range, designed for ball shaped light source, not line shaped as H7 bulb. Retrofit high beam HIDs dump most light close to the car, and it'll blind you back, so how far you can see will be lower with HID than with stock halogen. You'd have to go to some exotic discharge lamps, such as mercury high pressure ones, to get longer range out of HB retrofits than halogens. If you really want LEDs, or HIDs in high beams, fit auxiliary high beam lamps designed for them.

 

I played a lot with HIDs 2-4 years ago, and have to agree that the choice nowadays is more limited, and in particular quality of burners is often shocking.

Sorry, I should have said that London Colour is their eBay trading name...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XENON-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-H1-H3-H7-H9-H11-HB3-HB4-9006-/330379335700

 

I'm no expert but the ballasts seem very good quality, silicone not plastic cable, metal base, not plastic, ceramic insulation not glued etc.

 

Have not ordered from them, but these metal bases often do not sit perpendicular to the burner. The last dispute I filed on Ebay for burners was just that, one burner 7mm skewed end to end, the other about 3mm. Plastic base makes little difference to 35W burners, though at higher powers ceramic base is a must. But even then it is better to get moulded ceramic ones rather than metal collar ones, as the burner is more likely to be aligned correctly.

Edited 11 September, 201411 yr by dieselV6

Even high quality, instant-on, 100W+ HID kit will at most have the effective range of halogens when retrofitted in high beams, as I stated before, this depends on peak intensity of filament, and though HID puts out 3x - 9x more light, the size of the vapour ball that this light comes from is much bigger than a H7 filament. I tried 75W HID burners and close up they appeared to be blinding, but far away they barely matched halogen. 50W kit over 35W burners is slightly better (smaller arc). HID really needs custom reflector to increase range, designed for ball shaped light source, not line shaped as H7 bulb. Retrofit high beam HIDs dump most light close to the car, and it'll blind you back, so how far you can see will be lower with HID than with stock halogen. You'd have to go to some exotic discharge lamps, such as mercury high pressure ones, to get longer range out of HB retrofits than halogens. If you really want LEDs, or HIDs in high beams, fit auxiliary high beam lamps designed for them.

I played a lot with HIDs 2-4 years ago, and have to agree that the choice nowadays is more limited, and in particular quality of burners is often shocking.

I dont mean upgrading the power of the hid kit in particularly. Id still stick with 35w. My kid from HIDs direct doesnt seem to output as much light as some other hid kits though. So i wouldnt mind a higher quality kit (rather than the same old chinese import stuff that everybody seems to sell)

I dont want to touch anything higher than 35w in a hid because alhough they put out less heat, its concentrated onto a much smaller area within the lamp isnt it (where the arc is iirc).

I dont think my fabia would look very good with extra spotlights haha.

Sorry, I should have said that London Colour is their eBay trading name...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XENON-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-H1-H3-H7-H9-H11-HB3-HB4-9006-/330379335700

I'm no expert but the ballasts seem very good quality, silicone not plastic cable, metal base, not plastic, ceramic insulation not glued etc.

Cheers!

Hmm i wonder how these compare to the ones iv already got from hids direct.

All the kits look very similar

I worked with one of the Rally Rescue Ambulances recently that has fitted some LED auxiliary lights and the beam pattern is useless. They might be bright but all you got was a flood of light with no pattern.

What I am saying is that 35W in high beams will be very bright close by, but at best as bright as stock halogen at a distance, so you will not see any further than with stock lights which for me makes this upgrade of little value. But if you really want them, search for "rapid start" or "instant on" HID kits, these can have 90% brightness in as little time as 1s - 3s.

Edited 11 September, 201411 yr by dieselV6

What I am saying is that 35W in high beams will be very bright close by, but at best as bright as stock halogen at a distance, so you will not see any further than with stock lights which for me makes this upgrade of little value. But if you really want them, search for "rapid start" or "instant on" HID kits, these can have 90% brightness in as little time as 1s - 3s.

Iv tried em before mate. It didnt work for me. They blew after just a few months, finding a place for the ballasts was a ballache, warm up was a pain and not being able flash people was a game changer

When will people realise that the only way to actually increase the length of the beam from any light is to alter the focal length of both the reflector and lens? 

Increasing the power of the light source (bulb, HID, LED) does not actually do that, especially where that source is not at the designed focal point of the reflector; all that does is cause scatter and glare. It is especially noticeable where people fit cheap HID kits in filament designed units.

When will people realise that the only way to actually increase the length of the beam from any light is to alter the focal length of both the reflector and lens?

Increasing the power of the light source (bulb, HID, LED) does not actually do that, especially where that source is not at the designed focal point of the reflector; all that does is cause scatter and glare. It is especially noticeable where people fit cheap HID kits in filament designed units.

I got more beam length when i used hids in the high beam.

Maybe its something to do with the position of the light source inside the reflector.

It did make it better though. It was very impressive.

Iv tried em before mate. It didnt work for me. They blew after just a few months, finding a place for the ballasts was a ballache, warm up was a pain and not being able flash people was a game changer

 

I got more beam length when i used hids in the high beam.

Maybe its something to do with the position of the light source inside the reflector.

It did make it better though. It was very impressive.

 

Marginal improvement is possible, as HID arc hot spot is larger and as bright than H7 filament hot spot, so while it dumps more light sideways, it also provides more uniform lighting at a distance. But compared to voltage increase on stock H7 bulb, it is far smaller improvement. And as you stated, lifetime is a problem.

 

When will people realise that the only way to actually increase the length of the beam from any light is to alter the focal length of both the reflector and lens? 

Increasing the power of the light source (bulb, HID, LED) does not actually do that, especially where that source is not at the designed focal point of the reflector; all that does is cause scatter and glare. It is especially noticeable where people fit cheap HID kits in filament designed units.

 

Range depends both on focus / reflector shape, and on intensity. So long as the headlamp dumps most light away from the car and the scatter close by does not blind you back, for a given constant focus it is the intensity of the "hot spot" in the bulb/burner that decides the range. Basically (for a given driver, on a given day, in a given landscape and so on), there is a light intensity/contrast ratio below which the driver will not discern road features/obstacles. Typically range is quoted at 1lux of light on the road at a distance, which is conservative as many drivers can see 0.1lux well, but gives an indication of useable range. You can have 1 degree pencil beams, but if you put 1W bulb into them you will still have as pathetic range as with 55W ~7deg wide typical high beam.

 

Increasing intensity of the H7 bulb in Fabia high beams will in fact increase range by square root of the intensity increase, as the H7 high beams have a pretty good high beam shape, dumping most light far away from the car. Putting HIDs in H7 reflector housings is less efficient, as close by scatter/reflections vastly increase and effectively prevent the driver from seeing further ahead. LEDs are even worse, on account of even lower peak intensity, and require radically different optics (collimators) to get a well focused beam out of them.

Edited 12 September, 201411 yr by dieselV6

All the LED lamps for main beam use I have seen come with their own built in reflector. The now inappropriate original reflector becomes redundant.

Some LED reflector systems have worked well, some are rubbish.

I am not talking about the marker and interior type bulbs, which do not have any noticeable reflector.

The better ones, like the PIAA ones seem to produce a proper beam. As said it is only a question of matching the light source to the reflector for the style of beam you require.

There are lots of high quality ones available as stand alone lamps, and lots of cheap/not so cheap ripoffs, which may or may not work so well.

The bike world is awash with LED lamps, used as markers and conspicuous lamps and increasingly in headlamps.

Thousands of photos showing comparisons between halogen, HID and LED.

It is only a matter of time before the prices drop and the performance is refined to be plug and play in common car fittings for the normal user. Prices at the moment as a little steep.

Over driving standard bulbs works, but the question is for how long?

It is similar to the method PIAA used to get greater illumination over standard bulbs, but at the cost of shorter life and increased fragility.

Its is also along way from plug and play. A very long way.

All the LED lamps for main beam use I have seen come with their own built in reflector. The now inappropriate original reflector becomes redundant.

...

Over driving standard bulbs works, but the question is for how long?

It is similar to the method PIAA used to get greater illumination over standard bulbs, but at the cost of shorter life and increased fragility.

Its is also along way from plug and play. A very long way.

Surely the reflector-equipped LED retrofits would require front-loading and dismantling/splitting the headlamp to put the LED+reflector assembly inside? Not a plug and play project either, especially in view of the need to seal the headlamp afterwards  

Not really feasible to get a decent high beam from a 10mm wide reflector on account of light scatter, unless a laser is used (BMW are working on this, but I doubt it'll arrive in the next 10 years).

 

I agree overdriving reduces bulb lifetime drastically, as I stated 20hours or so is what I get, but for high beams it is enough. Though I do not get blown bulbs on account of soft start, and I can see when they require replacement well before they eventually extinguish. And yes, it is a very much DIY project, but most definitely not plug and play, unless someone makes a module out of the parts required and starts selling it. Still, using Ebay upconverters, the whole project can be completed under 20quid, and as a bonus you can afterwards use cheapest bulbs you can find, rather than premium ones.

All the LED lamps for main beam use I have seen come with their own built in reflector. The now inappropriate original reflector becomes redundant.Some LED reflector systems have worked well, some are rubbish.I am not talking about the marker and interior type bulbs, which do not have any noticeable reflector.The better ones, like the PIAA ones seem to produce a proper beam. As said it is only a question of matching the light source to the reflector for the style of beam you require.There are lots of high quality ones available as stand alone lamps, and lots of cheap/not so cheap ripoffs, which may or may not work so well.The bike world is awash with LED lamps, used as markers and conspicuous lamps and increasingly in headlamps.Thousands of photos showing comparisons between halogen, HID and LED.It is only a matter of time before the prices drop and the performance is refined to be plug and play in common car fittings for the normal user. Prices at the moment as a little steep.Over driving standard bulbs works, but the question is for how long?It is similar to the method PIAA used to get greater illumination over standard bulbs, but at the cost of shorter life and increased fragility.Its is also along way from plug and play. A very long way.

LED's can certainly be set up to throw light, I have an LED head torch I've used in climbing/mountaineering all over the world and it throws out an amazing field of light on full setting. So they can be set up to be used as headlights.

And yes, it is a very much DIY project, but most definitely not plug and play, unless someone makes a module out of the parts required and starts selling it. Still, using Ebay upconverters, the whole project can be completed under 20quid, and as a bonus you can afterwards use cheapest bulbs you can find, rather than premium ones.

So DIY on the basis of being pretty experienced at electronics. A presumption of having the equipment and ability to use a soldering iron, being able to do any calculations necessary. Judging by some of the questions on here about simple mechanical tasks, it would be so far out of the realm of possibility for most members.

A redundant effort too, as I don't believe it will be not long before cost effective plug in, pin swappable LED's will be available.

While agreeing that dismantling a headlamp unit is certainly non trivial, it is a simple procedure, everything is visible, and with an awareness of the pitfalls doable by anyone. There are several utube vids showing what and how to do it successfully. I should think if you get that far, you may as well swop the projector for a bi-xenon one, and drop in a cheap LED unit for flashing/passing.

Maybe once I get back from holiday I will try some of these LED's if I can find them in H1 and report back.

I agree overdriving reduces bulb lifetime drastically, as I stated 20hours or so is what I get, but for high beams it is enough. Though I do not get blown bulbs on account of soft start, and I can see when they require replacement well before they eventually extinguish.

Just as an example, My up coming hols involve me, commencing at 8pm, driving from here to Dover. 3 hrs driving, not all main beam but quite a bit, Its not called darkest Fenland for nothing.

Dunkerque to my sisters in Frankfurt is 614 kms, cruising at an indicated 80-90mph it will take roughly 6 hours, allowing for a rest break and slowing for the two border crossings and five interchanges.

Not all will be at night time, but most will. Much of the Autobahn is unlit but traffic light, which is the whole point of the timing, and why I have an interest in getting better lights.

So one journey could see 4 or 5 hours of mainbeam use. A quarter of the hoped life of the bulb using your converter, not allowing for duffs.

Add in the return trip and any night time excursions round deepest darkest Luberon getting lost looking for restautants later on. Just too small a factor of safety for me I'm afraid.

Nice to know someone is thinking outside the box though.

Increasing intensity of the H7 bulb in Fabia high beams will in fact increase range by square root of the intensity increase, as the H7 high beams have a pretty good high beam shape, dumping most light far away from the car. Putting HIDs in H7 reflector housings is less efficient, as close by scatter/reflections vastly increase and effectively prevent the driver from seeing further ahead. LEDs are even worse, on account of even lower peak intensity, and require radically different optics (collimators) to get a well focused beam out of them.

 

Really?

Do you have the scientific evidence for that, or is it all conjecture on your behalf?

 

And as for 20 hours being adequate for an over driven bulb, you must be joking? When I am at work in the winter I can have my main beam on for an hour and a half a day, simply because my commute is often before most people get up and on roads with no or little traffic.

Really?

Do you have the scientific evidence for that, or is it all conjecture on your behalf?

 

And as for 20 hours being adequate for an over driven bulb, you must be joking? When I am at work in the winter I can have my main beam on for an hour and a half a day, simply because my commute is often before most people get up and on roads with no or little traffic.

 

Yes, I do have a scientific proof for it, as in I actually measured light level at 100m away from the car using a digital lux meter, and I can readily repeat it by switching booster on/off in the car. It also helps for me to have a PhD in Optical Resonator design, so I'd say I just might know what I am talking about. 

 

 

Just as an example, My up coming hols involve me, commencing at 8pm, driving from here to Dover. 3 hrs driving, not all main beam but quite a bit, Its not called darkest Fenland for nothing.

Dunkerque to my sisters in Frankfurt is 614 kms, cruising at an indicated 80-90mph it will take roughly 6 hours, allowing for a rest break and slowing for the two border crossings and five interchanges.

Not all will be at night time, but most will. Much of the Autobahn is unlit but traffic light, which is the whole point of the timing, and why I have an interest in getting better lights.

So one journey could see 4 or 5 hours of mainbeam use. A quarter of the hoped life of the bulb using your converter, not allowing for duffs.

Add in the return trip and any night time excursions round deepest darkest Luberon getting lost looking for restautants later on. Just too small a factor of safety for me I'm afraid.

Nice to know someone is thinking outside the box though.

 

Note 20hrs is to 85% new intensity, the bulb will actually last for 50+hrs before blowing, I tested about 20 H3 bulbs from different vendors and of different purpose (normal, longlife, premium etc.) to failure with various voltages prior to this mod on the Superb. By the way, "longlife" bulbs indeed last longest, but above 18V tend to explode, so do not push this mod with them. Regular bulbs just darken and eventually go out, but you will notice blackened glass way before that. I've overdriven a couple bulbs to 21V, though lifetime is short indeed then, under an hour.

 

You can also overdrive by less, and get much higher life out of bulbs and still a decent improvement over stock. Because stock bulb voltage when it is lit is well below nominal, 11V or so. E.g. if you overdrive a bulb to 14V, expected lifetime would be 10 times longer than at 16.5V, around 200 hours, while range would still be 40% longer or so. Soft start/dark current pretty much eliminates blown bulbs at startup.

 

If you use high beams every night / more than tens of hours a year, it's best to fit auxiliaries anyway, as current retrofit LEDs will not give you comparable result unless you split open the headlamp, which was main point I made. Voltage booster can be easily disabled by pressing a switch and then you are back to stock beams, likewise a blackened or blown high beam bulb can be replaced in under 2min, but if a front loaded LED fails, you need to split the headlamp open to replace it. Not a road side task while on a trip.

 

Regarding practicality of this mod, to each its own. Electronic mods are far easier for me than splitting/sealing headlights, as I can put them in the cabin and not worry about water or dirt ingress, or headlamps falling apart after minor stone impact. Also, I suspect repeated opening of front of headlamp will cause difficulty sealing them after a few times, so the number of times you can experiment/replace faulty LEDs is limited. And there will be faults, I still remember early HID kits. 

Edited 12 September, 201411 yr by dieselV6