Hi all,

 

As is possibly quite common on here, I’ve registered as I have a problem I hope you guys (and girls) will be able to assist with.

 

I have a 2001 Skoda Fabia 1.4 16v elegance. 5 door with CL, all EWs, heated seats and air con.

 

Whilst driving along a few weeks ago all the doors (apart from drivers) deadlocked. No matter what I try, I cannot get any of the doors apart from the drivers to now open. The key fob does nothing, aside from manually open the drivers door. The red light on the door is not illuminated any more. The CL button on the drivers door does nothing. Strangely the front electric window buttons have switched sides.

 

With the engine off, key out of the ignition etc, there is a constant draw of around 2 amps. I have been unable to find where this is coming from and removing any of the fuses on the side of the dash does nothing. The interior light works correctly and there is no door open light on the dash.

 

I have brought a second hand convenience control module and fitted that, which hasn’t made any difference at all.

 

I thought it could be an issue with the door locks, but unlikely they would all go at once. I thought it could be the alarm siren, but removed that and made no difference.

 

The fact that the doors are deadlocked from the inside and outside, and the red light in the door isnt on makes me think its an issue with the immobiliser/alarm, and it thinks that its locked.

 

Unfortunately the car’s MOT has run out, so can’t take it to get plugged into a computer.

 

Really at a loss as to what to do. It’s a decent car but will obviously fail an MOT with all the doors locked. Fear it may be heading to the scraper if I can’t get it sorted.

 

Anybody got any idea? I’ve done tons of searches and nothing seems to work.

Any help?

 

Will likely be breaking for part at this rate. Will put a post elsewhere in cash people need anything.

Does your battery light come on when you turn the key?

After market stereo?

Rear boot light on when closed?

Glovebox light on when closed?

Checked battery in remote? 

What have you tried? 

There might be a fault logged.... Though whether anything "generic" would be able to get the info, I dunno.

Hi both,

 

Firstly, thanks sincerely for the replies. Skug, in answer to your questions:

 

- yes, after market stereo, but have removed this

- Will double check, but i think the battery light comes on, but goes off as it should

- rear boot light it off when boot is closed

- glovebox light is off when closed - also tried disconnecting glove box

- yes, checked new batteries on both keys

 

I made a last ditched effort last night and actually made some good progress. I have a clamp round ammeter thing (very useful!) so can measure the current going from the battery. This was reading about a 1.8ish amp draw. If i removed the central locking fuse this dropped by about 1.6 amps. if i remove the convenience module fuse this drops a further 0.1 amps roughly.

 

I can get the drivers door open by they key, so i took off the  boot for the wiring that goes from the door pillar into the rear door. Disconnected the plugs and took a gamble on the thinner wires being for the latch, rather than the thicker set which i assume are the electric windows. Then went though checking the resistance between the wires and made a best guess for the ones that were for the lock. After some slight trial and error, i managed to energise the lock and got the lock to disengage, and was able to open the door. With the door lock disconnected, the door can be locked and unlocked manually. I then did a similar thing to the front passenger door. Getting the door card off was a pain but i managed it. Again, took a stab at the right wires and managed to power the lock and get the latch disengaged. Tested the wires going to the lock and a couple have 12 volts on them, which went when i took the CL fuse out. So basically, something was sending a signal to the doors to keep them all deadlocked. To unlock them you need to put 12 volts to the lock.

 

So now i basically have a car with manual locks all round, which isn't a problem at all. Going to leave the CL fuse out so this should stop the battery from draining. The boot lock doesn't work but i think there is a catch to unlock manually in the footwell - forgot to check this last night.

 

Still none the wiser as to what is/was causing the issue, but I'm happy to just have manual locking on the doors. Relieved i don't have to send another car to the scrapper because of a stupid electrical problem.

 

if anybody has any queries or has a similar problem, please do drop me a PM and ill help out as best i can.

 

Thanks