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Remote Key Fob coding


pavinjo

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Hi,

I am having a problem with coding my spare remote key which came with the car when I bought it but has never worked.

The battery within said remote is ok and the light are flashing on the remote when buttons are pressed.

 

Using VAGCOM cable from a friend we mannage to clear all keyes but we managed to add only the main remote key(which already worked) to the system.

 

When checking in "Advanced Measuring Values" we manage to get following info for the non-working remote when button is pressed:

Fixed code = Not ok
Code in catch area = no Value
algorithm = Not ok

 

Could someone give some advice please?

 

Thanks

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Is it not worth just doing the manual pairing process? There's a guide out there somewhere but from memory it was something like put paired working key in the ignition and turn ignition on. Then new key in drivers door. Turn key to lock the door then press unlock button, same again but in reverse. It's something like that. Did all my keys like that in 5 mins with no hassle!

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Could be the wrong frequency remote. If its a 3 button fob its stamped on the casing where it fits into the key part. 2 button ones usually have a coloured disk under the battery

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Thanks for your inputs.

 

@badger89
That is exactly what I did do (i was following the procedure as on http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html). Upon deletion of all stored keys I only managed to resync the remote which already worked.

When syncing the spare one by pressing the button for one second, I could hear a "tick" which would mean that the car received some information from the remote. Unfortunatelly the remote did not work and the above errors were displayed upon checking trough "Advanced measuring values". So this procedure works but not with this key.

 

@Ben
That is the first thing i tried but it did not work.

 

@felicia16v
I have 2 button keys, they look the same and both say 434Mhz

 

Any advices?

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just because the LED lights up it doesn't mean that the remoite is sending a signal. All it means is that the LED is getting power from the battery. If you've tried with VCDS then either the fob is faulty or it's the wrong 1 for the car. There's several remotes that look identical but have different internal electronics. In a lot of cases when i test remotes that won't work with a car they still send the correct mhz signal. The problem is that the data that the fob sends within that signal has become corrupt so the CCM doesn't recognise it

 

Can you read the part number from each of the remote cases?

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@actionman
Cannot find the part number on the key (6Y.....) but when disassembled, the remote part of the key has engraved with small dots something like "354MLO" on both keys.

On the part where the key it is 1131823200xxx/1 and the spare key has 1131823200xxx/2.

Otherwise, the circuit board in the remote looks the same.

Edited by pavinjo
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