Hi guys, I'm going to be servicing my car myself as I can't afford to take it to a garage right now. I've done this sort of thing before and know it's easy enough, I was just wondering:

 

1. How much oil does the engine require? Haynes manual doesn't seem to say

 

2. How often do the glow plugs need changing? Is it worth doing just to be on the safe side?

 

3. I plan on cleaning the EGR valve soon, what's the best stuff to clean it with?

 

Any other handy hints to keep her running sweet would be appreciated. 

Cheers

1. I'd start with drain sump and change filter, replace sump plug (look pros can forget this) and fill with a 4l can, start up and idle for a couple of minutes, leave for a teabreak, go back and measure. It probably won't be on the top mark but will give you an idea how much of the extra litre you really need.

Mine's been running with slightly dodgy plugs for 9 years now. The worst issue is occasionally having it start on 3. After all, the plugs on this engine don't even get used unless the temperature's below 7C.

Grease the bonnet catch; I'd a fight with mine the last time I needed in there!

+1 to all the above, but plugs arent too expensive. I had a mk1 1.9tdi that did 225k on original plugs... i dont think they fail as a matter of course personally. They arent like spark plugs.

 

I cleaned my EGR with Mr Muscle oven cleaner and a toothbrush, but scrape off the thick gunk first with a lolly stick or very carefully with a screwdriver or similar.

 

But service the car regularly, it doesnt take long, and its not expensive. Filters from euro car parts, oil from the dealer in my opinion. Sometimes dealers selling on ebay are nice and cheap... Hint Hint, quantum 3 from audi something or other.

One of these makes it a lot handier and cleaner a job, especially in winter. 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pela-6000-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-Vacuum-Pump-Extraction-Boat-Car-6ltr-Free-Gloves-/141440490690?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item20ee829cc2

+1 the above I got one but was over zealous though and if imploded..... so dont pump too much

Glow plugs are heaters, that's all. If they work they work, if not they don't. Replacing old working ones with new ones will make no difference whatsoever. Beware though when removing them. They are stainless steel, and the threads could pick up and seize making them difficult or even impossible to remove. In this case forcing them will break them, or damage the softer aluminium alloy threads in the cylinder head, meaning the cylinder head may need to come off to drill them out. Assuming you do successfully remove them be sure to coat the threads of the new ones with high temperature anti-seize paste. Doing so will mean they'll be much easier to remove next time and will screw into place more easily and smoothly.

Your diesel engine is direct injection. These do not need or use glow plugs for cold start preheating unless the outside air temperature is below 2 degrees Celsius. Their purpose is to improve emissions and reduce noise when the engine is cold and only switch on for about 30 seconds following a cold start. They do not switch on for preheating when the outside air temperature is 2 degrees or above. The glow plug warning lamp illuminates when the ignition is switched on to tell you the ECM is carrying out a self-check of the system, and in any case you should wait until it's gone out before turning the key to start.

Great, thanks for the info guys! Very helpful. I'll leave the glow plugs well alone then.

 

Some bits from euro car parts turned up today - oil, air and pollen filters. I also ordered some shell helix ultra 5W-40, as that was one of the oils that came up as compatible with my car when I put my reg in - will this stuff be okay? I'd like one of those pumps, but funds don't allow at the minute. I do plan on self-servicing regularly though, as you say, it doesn't take long and a regular service will keep it running sweet for much longer. I'll get it done once the strap wrench I ordered turns up.

 

Thanks again!

Edited 2 December, 201411 yr by samj2013

+1 the above I got one but was over zealous though and if imploded..... so dont pump too much

 

Was it the same pela one? It's solid as a solid thing, I'd expect the seals in pump to give out or the tank split rather than collapse. I have seen cheaper ones that people complain collapse under too much pressure. I just pumped it up let it do it's thing while changing rest of filters then used it in oil filter housing after and got a good bit out of there too which wouldn't have drained out sump plug. 

My car dumped a load of oil on the road last night while parked up. Any suggestions for something to look for?

Shell oil should be ok; the thing to look for is a "VAG 50n.99" approval code on the can.

 

As to the dumped oil, if you haven't done any work yet, is it down on power and black smoking? If so, then the problem relates to the intercooler or its pipework (almost all on the RHS of the enginebay or in the RHF wheelarch._

Nope none of that. I did have some contact with the ground a couple of weeks back driving along a rough track, I assumed it was just the bumper at the time, but now thinking I may have cracked the sump. The leak seems to be coming from very close to the front, in the centre. I'm going to get underneath and have a proper look later.

Had a quick look, and the stuff on the floor looks fairly black, but underneath the car, the sump seems fine, however I found what looked like a yellow sticky fluid coming from one of the pipes. On closer inspection, it seems to be running down from the power steering pump, though it wasn't doing much when I looked. Looks like it's dumped a load last night, and then left another small drop this morning. A friend of mine had a wee look and said that would be strange - if it were power steering, he'd expect it to go pop at once while under load. Power steering and brake fluid levels both seem fine also. I may stick some newspaper under it tonight to see if it catches anything.

Does the car have the standard (plastic) undertray? This goes full width, and from the bumper to about the rear edge of the sump if it's still on.

 

I'd agree with your mate about the PAS. So other thoughts are to check the gearbox oil level (usual plug on side job on a manual) and the oil return from the turbo to the sump, which is about where you describe.

Does the car have the standard (plastic) undertray? This goes full width, and from the bumper to about the rear edge of the sump if it's still on.

 

I'd agree with your mate about the PAS. So other thoughts are to check the gearbox oil level (usual plug on side job on a manual) and the oil return from the turbo to the sump, which is about where you describe.

Nope, no undertray. I got right under and had a look - the stuff dripping off really didn't look like engine oil, it was a sort of amber colour. I'll have a check of those though, thanks.

Nope, no undertray. I got right under and had a look - the stuff dripping off really didn't look like engine oil, it was a sort of amber colour. I'll have a check of those though, thanks.

Smelly? Because used gear oil stinks to high heaven.

Smelly? Because used gear oil stinks to high heaven.

Not especially.

Not especially.

Only thing I can think of that even vaguely matches then is clean LM grease (this can stay clean for years if not exposed to dust).

Only thing I can think of that even vaguely matches then is clean LM grease (this can stay clean for years if not exposed to dust).

Definitely wasn't grease. It looked like it had flowed down one of the pipes from the PAS pump and where it had been dripping off, it had gone a bit sticky. I guess I wasn't too clear there.

 

It doesn't seem to have dropped anything last night though.

Sorry, but the oil extraction pumps are a rubbish idea and often leave sludge behind. At least it has a chance of running out/being washed out when drained properly.

 

Found too many grubby sump pans on fork lifts to even consider using one on anything that I actually care about.

I have one that I use at work. It can be very useful, but the trick is to run the engine to completely warm it up before drawing the oil out.