HI all, recently aquired this vehicle (Octi 2.0TDi PD 09) I thought the thermostat was faulty as it would take ages to get warm in the cabin, I could drive probably 4 miles before any significant heat comes out the heater vents... but when it does its like an oven and stays that way until next cold start. SO I have just spent an hour changing the stat for a new one, very slightest improvement but nothing to speak of, just went for a drive to run the water around the system and through the heater matrix etc... got up to 90 deg and stayed there all through the drive... When I got back I lifted the bonnet to a: check for any leak b: to feel the rad pipes, much to my surprise the right hand rad hose was warm to hot and the pipe from the thermostat was cold !  Its almost like the water is running the wrong way around the system ?  ANY THOUGHTS FOLKS ??

I have a 56 plate 2.0tdi 4x4 and 4 miles sounds about right before any real heat comes out of the vents.

 

No idea about the stat though.  Are you getting coolant flowing back into the expansion bottle?

Yes bubbles and spurts at the outset after refill, so maybe its just the way they are then... seems strange that the engine runs SO cool... will have to see how it performs over the next week or so and see if anyone else chips in with their wisdom.... Typically I dropped one of the thermostat housing bolts down between the block and the lower bracket Alternator is fixed to... that one will be staying there ! I managed to find a spare one in the garage, which was very lucky as it was a fine thread metric 7mm thread... how unusual could they make it ?.. Also managed to drop a 10mm socket and 2" extension bar down into the depths... tried to drop the bottom engine cover but the floor was so cold and it was getting dark.. so thought I'd just leave that one there too, I'm sure it'll fall out at some point. I must remember to get another spare bolt in case I ever have to drop that thermostat housing off again. Oh and why is it you can never find that magnet on the telescopic ariel thing when you need it ? Now to go and check that all the pipes are connected to the right spots using the elsawin.

Just an update, seems to warm very slightly sooner and stays rock steady at 90 once it gets there so I guess the new thermo is working correctly, specified at 87 opening and max at open at 103. Obviously the gauge is probably not going to read a +/- 10deg .  No leaks and hey in the back of my garage I found a 7mm 1and a1/4 inch bolt which fitted a treat, amazingly it came out of a SEAT chock conversion job I did maybe 20yrs ago... hows that for keeping bits that MIGHT come in handy one day... Amazing, or at least I was amazed at finding one to fit... also managed to end up dropping the short 1/4 drive extension and 10mm socket under the engine too... both bolt and bar/socket can stay there for another day.  THANKS for your input.

The temp gauge will read 90 unless the temp deviates significantly, something 80-100°C and it will still read 90°.

The temp gauge will read 90 unless the temp deviates significantly, something 80-100°C and it will still read 90°.

 

Thought that might be the case.... thanks for clarification tho.

Did you let it run for a while with the expansion cap off after refilling the system and preferably let it start getting some temperature in the engine? It's normally good practice to let the engine get up to temp before driving it as if there's a problem, you will see the temp rise too far and just switch it off on the driveway and not out on the roads!

 

But by the sounds of it there should be no problems as it get up to temp and remains at 90 so this would suggest that all is well :-)

And as already mentioned these motors can take an age to warm up, I have to be careful with mine (2.0 PD vRS) as in a 12 mile journey to work it's not properly up to temp until about 8-9 miles in so during these colder months I can't push the revs too much. 

I am sorry to say andybristol but you may have changed the stat for nothing, these engines are just very thermally efficient and do take an age to warm up in cold weather tis just the nature of the beast I am afraid.

Just sounds like diesels and cold weather tbh. They're more efficient so put out less waste heat.

It is this reason that I'm buying and fitting an electric auxiliary heater that fits inside the heater matrix and provides instant warm air.

 

Did you let it run for a while with the expansion cap off after refilling the system and preferably let it start getting some temperature in the engine? It's normally good practice to let the engine get up to temp before driving it as if there's a problem, you will see the temp rise too far and just switch it off on the driveway and not out on the roads!

 

But by the sounds of it there should be no problems as it get up to temp and remains at 90 so this would suggest that all is well :-)

 

It would never get up to temperature just idling on the drive!

 

It would probably take like an hour to get warm too! Just not practical.

It is this reason that I'm buying and fitting an electric auxiliary heater that fits inside the heater matrix and provides instant warm air.

 

 

It would never get up to temperature just idling on the drive!

 

It would probably take like an hour to get warm too! Just not practical.

Just fitted one to mine, does make a difference. However, I think the one I fitted was faulty, was wired in correctly to battery and can-bus but didn't last long. I opened it up to look at the circuit board inside as there are 5 resistors that can give up. Looks like 2 of mine have done so, just need to find someone to solder on some more - bit too fiddly for me. In the mean time I fitted the more basic one through some relays and a switch - just need to remember to switch it off as the car warms up. Which one are you fitting to your car ? My car's a 2008 2.0 tdi elegance estate. Your car should have the climatronic set up so you could go for either.

I'm going for the can-bus controlled one.

 

I had read about some failures due to the resistors.

 

If mine breaks I can just solder some new ones on.

 

And yes I have the climatronic so should be plain sailing.

 

Did you tap into the can bus high & low on the climatronic?

 

Phil

Yes I tapped into the 2 wires behind the climatronic control unit in the centre console.

 

When I bought my unit I got the small plug that plugs into the heater and some loom also so that I  could strip out the canbus wires which already have the correct colours, I then found these wires behind the climatronic unit, stripped back some insulation and soldered the new wires to them. I then got in touch with mikeholroyd from Whitby who was very helpful installing it using a vagcom and doing a test so that we knew it worked. 

 

Did you get the cover with yours as there are different covers for either no heater, a basic heater or the climatronic one.

 

You must be good with a soldering iron as these resistors are tiny !

Hi all,  could you please tell me where you got the kit from ?  I've got the same problem with my 2010 1,6Tdi - doesn't get warm enough for the Missus.

 

Thanks,  Colin.

I'm not sure on the 2010 models, it will depend on the heater box that is installed. The set up I used was found in vw golfs and passats around the 2008 era. It fitted into a slot just in front of the heater matrix and was controlled either through relays or electronically through the canbus fitted to models with climatronic. Depending on the one fitted there was different covers to match as in the photo's.

Thanks for the info,  I'll start looking at the parts fische to see what's available (or not)

 

Colin.

Well its a week on and as it seems to be the general case they just take AGEEEEEEEEEEEES to warm up, my old 4.2TD Landcruiser used to be warm after a few miles but this beast is another thing, going to have to look at fitting an aux heater in the car I think. I'm getting to old to sit in a cold car for half an hour waiting for the engine to glow.

 

Thanks to all who commented....  Next issue will be locating a TowBar for it.....  ANYONE ???