Apologies for bumping this thread. I thought it is better to collate it under one thread instead of starting a new one.

 

I own a 2013 Skoda Octavia Mk2 F/L Ambition (Ambiente) variant - that came with halogen projectors as standard for the low beam. I recently installed a HID kit myself, normal 50W Hyluxtek ballast with 45W 4300K H7 bulbs. I did the coding as suggested in this thread

 

Under Central electricals

Enable byte 14 bit 4

 

I seem to get a bulb out error on the right dipped beam as described in the below output from VCDS. However, the error is not permanent. If I switch off the headlamps and switch it on again, both the dipped beams seem to light up just fine. The pattern seems to be happening only while the lamps are switched on for the first time. From then on, both seem to light up alright. 

 

Just for testing, I did try disabling byte 14 bit 4 - as it was from factory and I did not get any bulb out errors reported on the maxi dot console. Shouldn't the error be reported as soon I switch on the ignition? Have I done something wrong with the installation?

 

Any help is gratefully appreciated.

 

Elect. (J519)       Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb

   Part No SW: 1K0 937 087 AD    HW: 1K0 937 087 AD

   Component: BCM PQ35  H   111 0709  

   Revision: AC111709    

   Coding: 48000AB8A00508C04008008011009164410000AE520081605C8460000040

   Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00075

   VCID: 73E529F9D2474686991-8026

 

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1Z2 955 119 D  Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB

   Component: Wischer 09011  26  0601 

   Coding: 00D7B7

 

4 Faults Found:

00979 - Lamp for Low Beam; Right (M31) 

            010 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

             Freeze Frame:

                    Fault Status: 00101010

                    Fault Priority: 1

                    Fault Frequency: 8

                    Reset counter: 135

                    Mileage: 30444 km

                    Time Indication: 0

                    Date: 2025.14.31

                    Time: 09:03:25

 

             Freeze Frame:

                        Term 15 On

                    Voltage: 14.30 V

                        ON

                        ON

                        Term 50 Off

                        OFF

                        OFF

Edited 17 November, 201510 yr by vignessh

It sounds like the ballasts have built in capacitors or resistors which are sufficient to fool the BCM.

Standard ballasts will show an error instantly

It sounds like the ballasts have built in capacitors or resistors which are sufficient to fool the BCM.

Standard ballasts will show an error instantly

 

Thanks xpower for the confirmation. I tried the checking the output measurement in VCDS to see how the low beams are. With both the sides lighted up, VCDS was showing 99.8% consumption. When I moved the headlight switch to the parking mode, the Low beam with shutters was showing up 99.8% consumption. Does that indicate anything at all?

 

Do you think the problem of one light not coming up the first time around is because of the 50W ballast? Would you recommend trying with a perhaps a regular 35W ballast & matching bulbs?

Doesn't really show anything sorry.

I ran 55w ballasts and 5000k bulbs for ages with no issues, however without coding they came up with errors instantly.

This is what proves somewhat they aren't "CANBUS" compatible ballasts

Same for me once coded all was OK with no errors. The loaded ballasts will eventually blow your BCM.

Doesn't really show anything sorry.

I ran 55w ballasts and 5000k bulbs for ages with no issues, however without coding they came up with errors instantly.

This is what proves somewhat they aren't "CANBUS" compatible ballasts

 

 

Same for me once coded all was OK with no errors. The loaded ballasts will eventually blow your BCM.

 

 

Personally, with a FL Octy, my advice would be to take the HIDs out and put uprated halogen bulbs, and do this whilst your BCM is will in one piece.

 

Mike

 

Thank you all for the clarification. The aspect of blowing up the BCM is scary though. I was running Philips Xtreme Vision H7 bulbs prior to this upgrade and was hoping the HID would be a long term solution to lighting problems. I was inspired reading some of the threads here, especially xpower's thread on the bi-xenon conversion. I'll try re-mounting the right side ballast once more to see if there is any change. (The right bulb is the one that fails to light up the first time around most of the times). Else, will try sourcing the regular slim 35w ballasts.

If you're replacing the ballasts I'd be temped by genuine ones as that will reduce the risk to the BCM massively.

If you're replacing the ballasts I'd be temped by genuine ones as that will reduce the risk to the BCM massively.

Thank you for the recommendation, will keep that in mind during the lookout.

Some more updates. After reading through various other forums, realize that the stock halogen wiring harness isn't necessarily capable of supplying the required current at startup. Which is why it is probably a hit and miss. I'm going to get a relay harness and see if the problem goes away completely. Found this very useful Youtube video describing the problem and the solution better.

Closing the loop on this one. After some research, I figured out the ballast I'd got was one of those fast start ballasts - which means they can ask for up to 10A per side upon startup in order to bring the bulb to working state sooner. The normal slim ballasts be it 35w or 55w can ask for up to 6A and some of the better ones manage to keep it under 5A which I presume is very forgiving on the stock electricals of the car. Going to try sourcing a regular 35w slim ballast and see how that goes.

Some more updates. After reading through various other forums, realize that the stock halogen wiring harness isn't necessarily capable of supplying the required current at startup. Which is why it is probably a hit and miss. I'm going to get a relay harness and see if the problem goes away completely. Found this very useful Youtube video describing the problem and the solution better.

This video only applies to older cars with no Canbus. If you do it this way on a Canbus system you will still get bulb errors as there will be no load on the headlight circuit when the lights are on (the relay will draw about 0.1 A). The system will report a bulb out. 

This video only applies to older cars with no Canbus. If you do it this way on a Canbus system you will still get bulb errors as there will be no load on the headlight circuit when the lights are on (the relay will draw about 0.1 A). The system will report a bulb out. 

 

You are right in the sense of being applicable to older cars with no Canbus. The problem I was trying to highlight is that the ballast can ask for a much greater current at startup (like the ones I got) and therefore can put a strain on the stock electricals leading to various kind of failures (including the BCM failures I presume). I guess the ideal combo is a ballast that does not draw more than 5A at startup and VCDS coding to go with it.

On 21/01/2015 at 14:33, tony2311 said:

I have a 2011 facelift SE. from reading this thread i need to code

09 Central electrics.

tick : Xenon lights without shutter installed 

untick: cold lamp diagnostics for dipped beam

 

Do i need to?

Changed the coding in byte 14 bit 4 to on,

Hi, coding done using vcds for Byte 14, bit 4 ticked but I can not find 'cold lamp diagnostics for dipped beam', do you know where it is or what byte? thanks