Ok, so have done the 6 speed conversion on my Fab.

The 6 speed box is fitted, but still need to bleed the brakes.

Anyway, everything is built up, Hun assembleys, shocks etc all ready for wheels to go on. But there is an issue with the steering that I don't know what it is.

Normally when the car is in the air and you turn the wheel, the steering is light as a feather from lock to lock.

The steering turns from straight to full lock right without much resistance.

Turning from straight to left lock is totally different. First of all it's like they're stuck straight and I have to force it to turn the wheel left, then it turns almost to full lock and get stuck again, but will go past if I use more force on the steering wheel

There is resistance the whole time whilst turning the steering wheel, either way, but more so turning left.

It's like the steering hits a couple Barriers when turning left.

It's totally odd and I'm not sure what it could be. It certainly wasn't like it before.

There are no objects visibly stopping the wheels from turning.

Any suggestions?

Bled the PAS system? Is it catching anything?

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Bled the PAS system? Is it catching anything?

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Can't think of any reason why it would need bleeding ?

I can see nothing blocking it at all.

Can't think of any reason why it would need bleeding ?

I can see nothing blocking it at all.

Nor can I tbh, StevoPC had similar issues,

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Electrical issue, low voltage? Or angle Sensor playing up? Could do with vcds scan.

Electrical issue, low voltage? Or angle Sensor playing up? Could do with vcds scan.

This is happening with the battery disconnected. It was after I built up the hubs etc. I noticed it because when working on the brakes, I can normally just turn them by hand and it spins the wheel in the car, I was unable to turn the steering by the disc and so thats what brought my attention to it. Then tried the steering wheel in the car and it was the same problem.

Thought about electrical issue, so connected the battery and started it up and still had the same issue, but the effects were lessened as I had the power steering to aid the turning of the wheel, but I could still feel the resistance spots through it.

Could it be drive shaft related?

Try diconnecting each track rod end and then see if you can swivel the hubs freely.

Hmmm, does sound like flaky rack if doing it with engine off and wheels in the air.

Hmmm, does sound like flaky rack if doing it with engine off and wheels in the air.

It was all good before all the change.

I'll try the above and disconnect each track rod end and see what happens.

Hmmm, does sound like flaky rack if doing it with engine off and wheels in the air.

I can't see how it could affect It, but is the steering rack different to a VRS rack? As I've put the Vrs hubs on etc, but not changed the rack.

Yes it is different, not sure externally but defo internally as there is a different gear speed.

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Yes it is different, not sure externally but defo internally as there is a different gear speed.

So could the rack be the issue? How can just changing the hubs affect it? I can't see how that can happen.

Isn't it just the lock to lock is shorter on the Vrs?

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Yes it is different, not sure externally but defo internally as there is a different gear speed.

So could the rack be the issue? How can just changing the hubs affect it? I can't see how that can happen.

Isn't it just the lock to lock is shorter on the Vrs?

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I can't see it effecting it but Taylor will know more as he's explained the rack setup before

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My friend has just given a possible explanation.

When I removed the box, I did so by dropping one side of the engine and removing the box from the passenger side.

He seems to think that this has bent the steering rack.

He thinks it's the knuckle behind the pedals that joins the steering colum to the rack.

Anyone else think this could be it too?

If it is, I'm not looking forward to changing that :(

My friend has just given a possible explanation.

When I removed the box, I did so by dropping one side of the engine and removing the box from the passenger side.

He seems to think that this has bent the steering rack.

He thinks it's the knuckle behind the pedals that joins the steering colum to the rack.

Anyone else think this could be it too?

If it is, I'm not looking forward to changing that :(

 

You will easily find out what it is once you've disconnected the track rod ends. If the hubs swivel OK, turn the steering wheel lock to lock and see if it feels stiff without being connected to the hubs. At least then you'll know where the stiffness is coming from.

Check the rack mounts. Any bending/strain should have left some evidence.

Ok, I've gone off the idea of the rack being bent, as I can't see how that would have happened when tilting the engine as the rack is mounted on the subframe and that wasn't touched.

I disconnected the track rods and the hubs move freely.

So the problem is with the rack.

It must be sucking in air from somewhere because when I turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and then undo the power steering reservoir cap i get a release of pressure noise!

I thought I'd do the bleed procedure in the Haynes manual as it was super simple, and so I thought what the heck.

On doing the procedure, the gaitor on the NS (passenger) had created s vacuum inside and it crushed itself.

So I removed the gaitor and did the bleed again and got bubbles from the reservoir.

I've checked all of the pipes and can't see how air is getting in, or even how.

looks like the seal has failed in rack poss coincidence

looks like the seal has failed in rack poss coincidence

Will the rack need replacing?

Will the rack need replacing?

 

Unfortunately yes if the seal has gone. Bet you're really fed up - I feel fed up for you :(

Unfortunately yes if the seal has gone. Bet you're really fed up - I feel fed up for you :(

Very fed up. It's low mileage, I can't see why the rack would fail :(

Very upsetting.

Very fed up. It's low mileage, I can't see why the rack would fail :(

Very upsetting.

Sudden shock or pressure overload in it?

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The PAS rack has the two lines which come over by the gearbox mount, are you sure you havent trapped and crimped one of the lines restricting flow?

 

the PAS pump is obviously in the Near side arch, and if you pulled the gearbox out that side, are you sure yuou havnt damaged anything? Just if thats the only thing that has changed and now the PAS isnt as it was before, id be looking in that area. to me Vacuum is a sign that the fluid was being compressed rather than moved, again as if a line is crimped/crushed

 

Have you started the car at all and checked the operation of the steering? my ticked/cracked as it went through the dead ahead position, I was told this was due to a teflon diverter valve in the rack cracking and jamming.

 

When i had my PAS Rack replaced (drop the subframe job and i wasnt in the mood), my local skoda Garage admitted they always sent them to a local garage in Gillingham, called them up and it was £250 all in for a recon rack (just as a heads up on estimated price including fitting)

Taylor93 makes a very good point, both hydraulic lines have a rigid steel run where they run under the inner wing right above the driveshaft, if these were crushed then you'd get a massive flow restriction.

 

Replacing the rack is an easy job if you have a four-poster, bloody awkward if you don't.

I'll inspect the lines again but I had a good look earlier and none of them seem damaged.

I don't believe that it's a coincidence that it has failed at the same time, I really don't, something must have caused it.l, I just cannot see what.