Hi, new to this forum.

Son owns MkI Fabia (53 plate, 1.9D Estate).

Remote locking issue. 2 keys, only one with remote buttons.

Remote locks/unlocks as normal, EXCEPT drivers door, (passenger, 2 rear doors, boot)

Manual key in Drivers door locks/unlocks ALL doors.

Have looked at a lots of posts, some get close, but none actually hits the mark, so grateful for any advice. Having read a number of posts began to think it might be the drivers door micro switch, but the other symptoms associated with that failure don't seem to be present, so now doubtful.

Symptoms.

No red LED light on drivers door pop up.

Interior light DOES come on when drivers door is opened.

Boot does unlock when car is unlocked using remote (and using key). Don't need to open any other doors first.

4 way flashers do come on when locking/unlocking using remote

Have re-synced the fob key (spare key in ignition, engine on, doors locked using other (fob) key, fob pressed, wait, fob pressed 2 more times - this doesn't actually lock or unlock car when other key is in ignition). Car unlocked using key. Spare key out of ignition. Fob still only locks/unlocks 3 doors.

Now confused. Any help gratefully received!

I hope the lack of suggestions doesn't mean this is a pig of a problem! Any suggestions folks? Anything gratefully received.

Sounds like a possible failed microswitch inside the driver's door lock unit. There are four of them inside it besides the one mounted on the outside.  Could also be a dodgy solder joint which is not uncommon. Also the wires inside the rubber trunking between door and A-pillar have been known to break, so worth checking.

 

This video shows the microswitches in the lock...

 

 

Wires in rubber trunking...

 

 

 

This can happen to the solder joints in the lock unit...

 

We'll I'm hoping it's not a micro switch, a, because some of the other faults associated with a failed Micro Switch are not happening, and b, I really don't want to have to strip the door! But I will check the wires etc. thanks for the video and photos. Very helpful.

We'll I'm hoping it's not a micro switch, a, because some of the other faults associated with a failed Micro Switch are not happening, and b, I really don't want to have to strip the door! But I will check the wires etc. thanks for the video and photos. Very helpful.

 

The symptoms of interior lights and lights-on buzzer not working are only related to the external microswitch on the lock unit.

Hey mate, I have a fault code 01033 and my symptoms are car is unlocking itself and putting windows down and no interior roof light on drivers door open and no lights buzzer also car will re arm itself even if drivers door has been opened. Do you think the micros witch could cause all these faults ??

I have this problem with my Fabia 1,too! Just started today,previously all functions have been fine. Heard a repeating series of "central locking" clunks and checked the car. Central locking was functioning by itself three or four times then -pause- then the two front windows went down. After a minute or so the  central locking cycle repeated followed by the windows operating.This carried on even after I tried resetting the system using the recommended procedure: i.e close door with window partially open,use fob to lock.Then using key in lock turn anticlockwise and hold for windows to close; remove and replace key turn to lock position and hold for at least 3 secs.  No change! Had to disconnect battery quickly whilst windows were closed to ensure they stayed that way,and then manually locked all four doors.  Going to leave battery disconnected overnight,and see if problem repeats itself tomorrow - hopefully system will have reset!Will report back.

Fortunately,have second car as Skoda cannot be parked  securely with this fault.

Any other ideas,please?

Further to my previous post. The following day I reconnected the battery,and system appeared to be working OK.To double check I went through the re-set procedure,and all seemed well.Didn't use the car at all,and periodically checked to ensure that the central locking was on and the windows 'up' . Then a day later I found the windows half open,and door unlocked!  Tried re-set again with no success,so have had to disconnect battery to ensure windows stay closed. Car now is effectively useless!

 

At a loss - in depth searches show no specific fault cures,but am wondering if this could be related to either the door lock or the lock microswitch/switches. Any Skoda electrical wizard out there that can help?

Hey buddy,

I have had the exact same problem with my vrs for 2 months, I sorted it this weekend. Unfortunately it cost me £155 for a door latch. If you do a scan it should come up with a fault code relating to the car thinking the key is in the lock barrel held in the open position... Coupled with a faulty micro switch, it's a whole new module. Not the easiest job either, you'll need a couple of hours for replacement and a guide from the forum... I had done searches and found people saying £40-£60... Lol hence the shock when skoda told me £155

Hi there,

my front passenger door is in dead lock mode. It is stuck shut. These problems appear related to the door locking module - most likely the micro switch.

The £40 - £60 others have mentioned is for a part off ebay. Not necessarily OEM or a genuine skoda part, but it does the job.

You can buy them new or second had from ebay or used from the scrappy.

 

I am going down this route when i can open and then remove my door lock module. Need to see what part number it is.

Skoda quoted me £140 + VAT for the part.

 

My boot isnt opening too - rear solenoid issue/short

 

Good Luck.

Thanks, particularly to bree9482, every bit of info helps! I believe I may have narrowed the problem down to the driver’s door lock mechanism being the most likely culprit  – but still unclear if this mechanism also interconnects with the window operation since the two malfunctions happen together.

I managed to get hold of a VAG scanner to check the DTCodes and found several, but they were all mainly ‘legacy’ faults left in the memory which I then cleared.

After using the car the only one that did return was: 01031-155 Central Locking Key switch - Driver side- Lock – Short    so my assumption is that I probably need to replace the mechanism (what a pain!)

I can’t be sure that the fault isn’t due to cables or connections except that, prior to getting the VAG scanner, I had the doors/windows all working correctly for a few days and was keeping an eye on the vehicle to ensure that they didn’t randomly open. Early one recent morning, with the car having been parked on my driveway since the previous day, looking out from my house I saw that the driver’s window was open. I wasn’t able to immediately go to the car to re-set the locks/window, but when I had the opportunity a couple of hours later I found the windows closed and the vehicle locked! Had exactly the same experience again this morning, about 7.a.m the window was open and a few hours later it was closed. Had I not checked earlier, I would have been unaware that this had happened.  So, a static vehicle with no attempt to operate using the key or remote but the windows cycle to the open position and then close some time later.  

The only variable is that on both later occasions of finding the windows closed the sun was now on the vehicle and it was quite a bit warmer than night-time temperature – could this possibly lead to a poor contact/solder joint? I would think that vibration from driving and door closing would be far more likely to produce this particular fault and that it would occur with far greater frequency.

I’d like to feel more confident that I have located the source of both faults before I get a new mechanism and go through the chore of replacing it!

I would assume if your getting a notification of a short you've got something wrong with the contacts on the switch in question? Mine does a similar thing at present but it seems to be linked to temperature, give it a little rain or damp weather its off on one, if its sunny its right as day

Hi, my car is having the same issue as the original post, I shall hopefully be investigating it today. I'll try the trunking wires and then strip the door to see what's going on if I have to. No fault codes show up and it does work intermittently or at least it did for the earlier part of yesterday and then didn't seem to work at all for the rest of the day. I'll let you know what's found. Ferrycraigs did you get anywhere with this or find out what it was? Josh

well after removing the door card and the mounting plate thing underneath it was clear that my issue was mechanical. The lock head metal bar - bit that sticks through the door and goes up and down unlocking and locking was clearly catching on something further along it's body and also wasn't aligned and was very loose and kept coming away from the door. (with door card off as in it wouldn't stay straight up) Not a lot I could do with it other than have a good fiddle about and managed to get it seated a bit better and put it all back together, tried the remote, nothing. Tried the key in the door which must have reseated it further and now it works again with the remote. Intermittently I might add. So, not a perfect fix but better than what it was. Perhaps another day I can have another further investigation but was running out of time so put it all back together. Couldn't get the metal mounting plate thing fully off either - undid all the 10mm self tappers and then didn't have a small enough strange square drive to undo some small circular black clips that seemed to be holding it on. Also undid 3 screws holding a circular control unit in to see if that would loosen the plate but they ended up only holding the control unit to the plate they weren't straight through.

 

anyone got any ideas? I'll try post some pictures I took. 

   

 

 

That bit that does go up and down is loose by design.

Mines the same, nothing to worry about.

You will prob need to replace the door locking mechanism.

I have done that to mine.

Having an issue with the door pin not popping either up or down but at least the door now locks and can be opened manually.

I was a TAXI for 2 months without the use of my front passenger door.

Good luck!

Oh right okay, thanks.

Latest on my problem! (See my April post above)  I got a door lock actuator from eBay and installed it. But the problem persisted,if anything even worse, - so I reckoned it was unlikely to be a faulty doorlock  and finally came to the conclusion that I needed a professional! Found a good VAG electro-technician and left the car with him for several days.  Got a call a week later that he had sorted the problem but it had required quite lengthy fault-tracing..

Turns out that the replacement door lock actuator was rubbish ( well,it was from eBay so I should've taken "OEM quality" with a pinch of salt! ) and the micro-switches in the unit were not making contact.He replaced it with my original lock,which he had determined from 'bench-testing' had no faults.Further fault-tracing led him to a problem with the after-sales Thatcham alarm system,which had been installed on the car when new by the Skoda dealer. A wiring connection to the ECU (?) had developed a fault and when the system was isolated the central locking/window operation problems disappeared.  I still have the basic locking/unlocking facility by using the buttons on the key,but the Thatcham alarm is now redundant. I can live with that!

 

But it did involve a 5 hr.labour charge ( thank goodness not at main dealer rates!) Good to have our old 'run-about' back working again.......

 

I know this solution is unlikely to be much help to others,but one needs to be confident that a component is faulty before replacing. I could have saved a lot of my own,and the technicians,time if I hadn't gone up the 'blind alley' of the door lock and taken it to him in the beginning!

 

  Joshd89,entapryz,bree9482 and others - I hope you've all been successful in solving your issues. Do post if you have,and how!

I got all good oe door locks

I have the symptoms you describe above, no lights warning alarm / door open led etc. and cannot unlock on remote.

 

I know I have to change microswitch to get the door open alarm back but would this microswitch also affect the door central locking actuator? 

 

my wiring in the door trunking is all ok.

I know I have to change microswitch to get the door open alarm back but would this microswitch also affect the door central locking actuator? 

 

 

 

No but there are several other microswitches inside the lock unit. The one that controls the lights-on alarm etc is on the outside of the lock.

 

This video explains how it all works...

Edited 9 May, 201610 yr by TMB

I stripped the mech down and all the parts / solder actually looked fine.

 

wires in the rubber trunking are very tight, especially one of the pink ones, none are visibly broken though

 

could this be causing the door lock mech to not be working properly?

I had a broken wire on mine that affected the central locking. It was completely snapped though.

 

Edited 19 June, 201610 yr by TMB

Can I have some advice please

 

Key goes in to door and when you turn key its then anyones guess what your going to get.

 

Sometimes it locks or not , sometimes it opens and then closes right away.

 

cant pair the blipper. Apparently the inner lock on the door is 99% to be at fault? Is this likely to be the case? Ive ordered another one

I reckon it will be a problem with either dodgy solder joints in the locking unit or faulty microswich in same.

 

This is what can happen to the solder joints, especially on the driver's side where it gets most bashing about...

 

 

And you can see the black microswitches here. Microswitches 1 and 2 are operated by your key...

 

Edited 10 November, 20169 yr by TMB