Anybody else experienced this?

I'm hoping someone is going to tell me it's a really common problem, and it's just a lazy slave cylinder!

Really don't fancy putting a clutch in! Just bought it yesterday haha

Before spending money.

 

Check the connection of the master cylinder hydraulic pipe where it enters the gearbox before the slave cylinder.  This connector is a plastic, device which houses the bleed nipple.

 

The connection pipe has 'o-ring' type seals and they can fail and then draw air in giving the symptoms you describe.

 

Wrap some kitchen towel around the connector and see if there is any evidence of dripping oil.

 

Cheers,  Terry

Typically it's the slave cylinder, but the box has to come out to change on a vrs I believe.

Others have found that it is caused by the clutch.

Unless you have air in the clutch line it's going to be gearbox out I'm afraid.

Unless you have air in the clutch line it's going to be gearbox out I'm afraid.

Now that is an example of poor engineering. Why haven't they engineered in, some form of inspection panel?

I've also known bumpers that have to be removed, just to change a bulb.

The best one is on a Citroen Picasso, if you have a rear puncture, the jack is in a plastic box inside the rear wheel, which is slung under the car.

Unfortunately if the tyre is flat, there isn't enough clearance to get the wheel out, in order to retrieve the jack in order to change the wheel. doh...

Simple solution... don't keep the jack in the spare wheel.

Engineering with no common sense.

Now that is an example of poor engineering. Why haven't they engineered in, some form of inspection panel?

I've also known bumpers that have to be removed, just to change a bulb.

 

 

I had a 02 reg Fiesta and that also had the clutch slave cylinder (combined unit with release bearing) inside the gearbox bellhousing. Really dumb idea. I always preferred cable operated clutches myself.

You might want to check/replace the pressure plate/clutch kit, which makes more sense to be faulty as you described the problem. 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6089802-02M-whining-decel-noises-aftermarket-clutch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play

If you have no visible fluid leaks the link silky has put up above is the easiest thing to try before you remove box

Now that is an example of poor engineering. Why haven't they engineered in, some form of inspection panel?

This isn't actually a bad design. It's just because it's a concentric slave cylinder which is used as the release bearing too. It actually works really well on most cars, the only downside is that it's a gearbox out to change but they don't regularly fail.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6089802-02M-whining-decel-noises-aftermarket-clutch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play

 

This link is the core of the problem - and probably the best fix ever.

 

I've had the clutch creep issue for years and took these two small parts (WHT-001-976 shim 3€, 02M-301-211-B cover 6€) to my mechanic and voila - no more annoying sticky clutch and creeping forward, stuck first/reverse gear! Gearbox works like a charm and the fix is like €30 with parts and labor. It's even DIY-able as the gearbox does not have to come off the car.

 

The cupraforum has a great little tutorial how it's done:

 

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4529301&postcount=114

 

Please don't waste huge €€€ as this fix works in 99% of the cases for 02M box, and is also the cheapest option to try before any larger intervention!!! I've had many offers to "fix" my box but no one would tell me what they were going to do/fix, and I don't have to say they wanted big money for "gearbox overhaul".

Hi there ppl, can anyone pls send a link for these parts? I'm also having the same problems...