HI,

I am in the process of changing the timing belt and water pump on the vRS following Skud's guide. Everything came off with out to much bother, locked the crank and the cam with the tools. Put all the new stuff on made sure the tensioner arrow was bang in the middle of the cut out etc.

the problem is, now i have removed the locking tools and tried to crank it clock wise by hand, to check the timing, it will do one cycle and then it locks up. It feels like a solid/Mechanical lock up rather than just a compression stroke.

Not really sure what to do next or where i may have gone wrong.

 

Please help!!

 

Cheers

Russ

Are the 3 cam sprocket bolts in the centre of the slots ?

If not, the belt is one tooth out.

I was under the impression that the cam sprocket had to be rotated clock wise so that the bolts were in the far left of the slots and this took it to within 1 tooth?

Is this the guide you used?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/94593-fabia-vrs-timing-belt-change-diy/

It does say about half way down that the bolts on the cam sprocket should be located in the middle before re-tightening. There should be some guides out there on how to reset the engine timing. 

 

Once you've got it running again I'd also recommend checking the torsion value in VCDS as it often gets thrown out with a cam belt change if not done properly and it's likely to be fairly out on yours unless you get lucky. 

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/camshaft-timing-torsion-value-adjustment-on-vw-and-audi-pd-tdi-engines/

Edited 11 January, 201511 yr by mattbvRS

The cam sprocket bolts should end up been just about in the centre of the slots if the timing is done correctly.

As Matt says, the torsion value checked with VAG COM should then be 0.0 Kw.

I have changed many PD cam belts and never had a problem with locking engines provided the crank and cam are locked and the sprocket bolts are in the centre of the slots.

HTH Bill.

Get the cam lined up again and insert the lock pin, loosen the sprocket bolts and turn the crank until the bolts are in the middle, the tiny arrow on the crank sprocket should be pointing straight up. now insert the crank lock, if this can't be done take the belt off and redo it then tighten the sprocket bolts, do two full turns then check you can re-insert the locks, if not, rinse and repeat.

Edited 11 January, 201511 yr by sepulchrave

Is this the guide you used?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/94593-fabia-vrs-timing-belt-change-diy/

It does say about half way down that the bolts on the cam sprocket should be located in the middle before re-tightening. There should be some guides out there on how to reset the engine timing. 

 

Once you've got it running again I'd also recommend checking the torsion value in VCDS as it often gets thrown out with a cam belt change if not done properly and it's likely to be fairly out on yours unless you get lucky. 

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/camshaft-timing-torsion-value-adjustment-on-vw-and-audi-pd-tdi-engines/

 

Yes, that is the guide that i followed. I just reset the bolt to where they were before. Can you check the tension with VCDS lite?

 

 

The cam sprocket bolts should end up been just about in the centre of the slots if the timing is done correctly.

As Matt says, the torsion value checked with VAG COM should then be 0.0 Kw.

I have changed many PD cam belts and never had a problem with locking engines provided the crank and cam are locked and the sprocket bolts are in the centre of the slots.

HTH Bill.

 

Thanks Bill looks like i need to get those bolts in the center

 

Get the cam lined up again and insert the lock pin, loosen the sprocket bolts and turn the crank until the bolts are in the middle, the tiny arrow on the crank sprocket should be pointing straight up. now insert the crank lock, if this can't be done take the belt off and redo it then tighten the sprocket bolts, do two full turns then check you can re-insert the locks, if not, rinse and repeat.

 

Thanks for your input. Just so i have this right; Once i have locked off the cam, you say the arrow on the crank sprocket should be pointing straight up. The thing is, the tool i have to lock the Crank, the arrow on it is at 11 o'clock, when locked in position, not straight up. So, am i right in thinking that it doesn't matter if the arrow on the Sprocket and the arrow on the locking tool do not match up?

 

Cheers

Russ

Thanks for your input. Just so i have this right; Once i have locked off the cam, you say the arrow on the crank sprocket should be pointing straight up. The thing is, the tool i have to lock the Crank, the arrow on it is at 11 o'clock, when locked in position, not straight up. So, am i right in thinking that it doesn't matter if the arrow on the Sprocket and the arrow on the locking tool do not match up?

 

Cheers

Russ

 

Yes, ignore the arrow on the tool.

May help, better pic of the crankshaft tool in situ http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BEW_timing_belt_procedure.pdf

 

DB

Remember that the engine is canted slightly forward so straight up will appear to be at 11 o'clock, later 16v diesels with the oval crank sprocket are timed differently.

Yes, ignore the arrow on the tool.

The procedure referanced in the above post appears to show the setting tool mark at 11 o'clock, not 12 (and aligned with the crank pulley mark). As there look to be about 22 teeth on the crank pulley this could result in being about 15 degrees out, I.e. 360/22 so ensure that this advice is correct! I personally lined the setting tool and crank pulley marks up. TAKE LOTS OF ADVICE AS AN ERROR HERE COULD BE CATASTROPHIC.

Edited 11 January, 201511 yr by KeithCheetham

The procedure referanced in the above post appears to show the setting tool mark at 11 o'clock, not 12 (and aligned with the crank pulley mark). As there look to be about 22 teeth on the crank pulley this could result in being about 15 degrees out, I.e. 360/22 so ensure that this advice is correct! I personally lined the setting tool and crank pulley marks up. TAKE LOTS OF ADVICE AS AN ERROR HERE COULD BE CATASTROPHIC.

 

Don't be a **** Keith, I've done this job many, many times:

 

 

Remember that the engine is canted slightly forward so straight up will appear to be at 11 o'clock, later 16v diesels with the oval crank sprocket are timed differently.

 

You can't really get this wrong and as I said not all tools are the same.

My guess is you have used the camshaft locking tool and it's not gone all the way in to the lock the camshaft (many of this pin don't fit) use a 6mm drill bit instead

What's the latest on this ?

 

DB

Haven't had chance to work on it today , due to work. Might "work from home" tomorrow though. I think silky May have nailled it though. I never pushed the cam locking tool all the way home, there was about 1cm sticking out, but didn't feel like it could go any further. So I guess the cams have moved out of sync.

Everyone has a way of doing it themselves, sometimes different from others, I have done 100+ PD engine t/belts from working at skoda/vw and seat. The easiest way I have found to time the engine up is, when you have the cam near enough bang on stick the pin in and if it doesn't slide in, keep pressure on the pin whilst slightly moving the crank each way, it should locate hell of a lot easier and just slide in, then you can lock off the crank. If you have aftermarket timing tools then some of the crank locking tools aren't a tight fit where they locate into the hole.