Here is the one ive got and a link to the DW group buy.

 

About £46 delivered

 

http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/shop/festool-carbide-de-nibber-dw-group-buy.html

Ah i thought that might be what you meant, it's basically a sharp block of titanium...

Pretty pricey though :/

OK, so mentally totting up a list of items I'll need.  I'd love one of those de nibbers but at £60 for a 1"^2 piece of metal, I'll give it a miss.  Instead, I'll get some wet and dry, soaked in soapy water and glue it to the end of a pencil or something, masking the surround area.

 

So things I'll need:

 

• Cellulose Paint (Matched) and Cellulose Lacquer >> http://www.carpaint.co.uk/4-cellulose
• Primer >> http://www.carpaint.co.uk/21-industrial-primer-grey-1ltr.html
• IPA >> http://car-chem.com/store/ipa-isopropyl-alcohol-5?filter_name=ipa
• Clay bar (already have) and rust remover >> http://www.amazon.co.uk/JENOLITE-Rust-Remover-Treatment-Non-Drip/dp/B007MMXYNY
• Wet and Dry 2000-2500 grit >> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wet-Dry-Sandpaper-Mixed-Grits/dp/B009QZSW7S
• DA Polisher >> http://liquidelementsuk.co.uk/collections/polishing-machines/products/das-6-pro-plus-polishing-kit-t3000-cps
• Lint free cloths
• Cocktail sticks etc

Anything else that I've missed?

Just been to a local garage.  They quoted me £65 per wheel for typical silver/black/grey etc, but wanted £75 per wheel for shadow chrome or the likes.  Is this the going rate or is it a little pricey?

 

Whilst I was there, I also asked about getting the bumper resprayed. Naturally they're concerned about it not matching so they said they could do the bonnet, bumper and first half of the wings for £380. Again, is that a good price?

Just a thought. I have a Badger 200 airbrush from when I was into aeromodelling as a kid.  I wonder if that would be a neater, more thorough way to apply paint to the stone chips without getting raised bump...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhtAuQzKCa8

Edited 8 June, 20169 yr by planehazza

Well suffice to say, youtube makes it look a lot easier than it is.  My car bonnet is littered with chips, and whilst it's clear I'm not going to get a proffesional finish doing it myself, just having them silver is going to be better than black/rusty.

 

Here's some befores, followed by some with the first application of base coat.

 

Befores:

 

WIP, basecoat:. Ignore the cloudy surroundings - it's the result of 2000grit wet and dry to remove any loose paint and raised edges. It will all be polished out once the whole area is sanded with 2500 grit and blended.

 

 

So, as you can see, hardly expert level, but as I say, silver is better than rust.  It'll all look a lot better when machine polished   The long scratch in the first photo is about 2-3" long, but thankfully only appears to be in the clearcoat.  I've cleaned and degreased (with 99% IPA) it and applied a layer of clear coat.  I'll apply a few more before sanding it down.  Should be totally invisible once I'm done.

Edited 18 March, 20179 yr by planehazza

Update:

Base coat added to the some of the worst offenders on the bonnet and have given them all a quick sand with 2500 grit.  Waiting for the rain to stop so I can dry the bonnet (just rinsed and then washed it to remove sanding dust etc) and I'll begin the lacquer process.  The rest of the chips that need primer or base coat have been sanded with 2000 grit and rust converter dabbed in. Means I'll be driving around with a more noticeably damaged bonnet for a while but the end result should be good.  That 3" scratch is all but gone   I'll probably follow the scuff marks up with the farelca rubbing solution then will take a cutting a finishing pad across it with the DA and Sonax finishing polish.  I don't want to risk thinknig the clear coat too much.

 

 

 

Compare this image to the first image in the last post - use the deep scratch as a reference. The 3" surface scratch is all but gone

Edited 19 March, 20179 yr by planehazza

Don't do what I've done here, and that is to lose track of the amount of sanding you've done around a stone chip. I've managed to go down to primer! 

 

 

 

 

The bonnet is looking a bit sorry for itself:

 

Edited 20 March, 20179 yr by planehazza

And the bonnet now after filling in all the tiny marks from small stones:

 

This is from 2500 grit wet and dry.  Will an orange lake country and Sonax perfect finnish (http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/sonax-perfect-finish-profiline/prod_1209.html) have enough cut to get these marks out?