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Few Problems...

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Hi Guys, asking for some advice on a couple of problems that have occurred on my car recently,

 

Firstly the engine coolant light, I've checked coolant levels and they are always fine, its just annoying that beeping and flashing red light. I know this is a common problem with the fabia but will buying a new expansion tank fix this is as I've read usually its the sensors in the bottle?

 

Heres one euro car parts have, will changing this and topping up the coolant fox the problem?

 

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Fabia_1.9_2006/p/car-parts/car-cooling-parts-and-car-heating/cooling/expansion-tank/?205440680&1&64c442d50f7fd1ff7d826e3b5e66d6ef16d2d43d&000125

 

It doesn't come with a pic but its matched with my reg so will fit.

 

Secondly my handbrake light coming on and warning beeps, I had low brake fluid levels so topped it up a month ago and the noises went, today they came back so went under my car and identified that my rear left calliper looks wet, here are some pictures?

 

IMG_2863_zps00916134.jpg

 

IMG_2863_zps00916134.jpg

 

This is the drivers side and is dry

 

IMG_2864_zps2b918917.jpg

 

The question is I do not know where the leak is coming from? Ive seen some people mention the calliper or the seals, will a new calliper like this one fix the problem?

 

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/c/Skoda_Fabia_1.9_2005/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-hydraulics/brake-caliper/?133442190&1&0be25dec5ccc1b9814d29b0d859e91dc9b71ce6b&000048&awc=3997_1424120370_b946beb9d430e9c2851cfb572ac5816c&utm_source=Skimbit&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=ecp+homepage&utm_content=awin+traffic&utm_campaign=Sub+Networks

 

The car is having AP coilovers put on on the 28th so would you recommend changing the calliper?

 

Once again thanks for the help

1) yes that will sort it

2) I'd get the brakes checked first before you possibly waste money on a calliper, loose or split pipes or dodgy nipple it could be. However it could be the seals which is normally a new calliper.

  • Author

Thanks for the reply! I'll order the tank!

 

Is there anyway of telling what it is, I might take the wheel off and have a look tomorrow night, just look for loose connections or splitting?

By the looks of that its running from the top rear of the caliper, so nipple or banjo connection most likely. Could be the nipple needs a tweak or replacing, or the banjo bolt nipping up. Don't overdo it and if you have a suitable torque wrench use it (not sure of the settings as my haynes is in the garage). 

  • Author

Thanks, Ill try and get the wheel off and take some pictures? Are hem parts you've mentioned easily available and relatively straight forward to swap over?

By the looks of that its running from the top rear of the caliper, so nipple or banjo connection most likely. Could be the nipple needs a tweak or replacing, or the banjo bolt nipping up. Don't overdo it and if you have a suitable torque wrench use it (not sure of the settings as my haynes is in the garage).

Just checked my Haynes and couldn't see the torques for it542e3c2b87ed42e2455a51ca8c2757db.jpg

Thanks, Ill try and get the wheel off and take some pictures? Are hem parts you've mentioned easily available and relatively straight forward to swap over?

Nipples should be available from your local garage or motor factors :giggle:
  • Author

Thanks Guys appreciate it a lot!

The nipple is an easy swap, but bleeding is a 2 man job unless you have a pressure bleed kit.

 

The bolt on the OEM lines is built in, so I think you'd need a new line. Try tightening it first and give the caliper a clean up so you can see any 'fresh' fluid on it. The more I look at the picture the more I think its coming from the banjo.

 

If that does cure the problem, then you should bleed the brakes fully, possibly give the fluid a change.

 

If you're not sure don't mess with it! Brakes are rather important. At least if you can diagnose the fault and tell the garage what to do, they can't **** you over though :)

  • Author

The nipple is an easy swap, but bleeding is a 2 man job unless you have a pressure bleed kit.

 

The bolt on the OEM lines is built in, so I think you'd need a new line. Try tightening it first and give the caliper a clean up so you can see any 'fresh' fluid on it. The more I look at the picture the more I think its coming from the banjo.

 

If that does cure the problem, then you should bleed the brakes fully, possibly give the fluid a change.

 

If you're not sure don't mess with it! Brakes are rather important. At least if you can diagnose the fault and tell the garage what to do, they can't **** you over though :)

 

Thank you, the car is going to the mechanic on the 28th to have the coilovers fitted, brake fluid levels are alright at the minute but ill just keep on checking on them,

 

Sorry to be a pain but how do i go about getting them parts? Would a local motor factor have them, I will have the brake fluid changed and bled just for peace of mind when i put the new suspension on

Thank you, the car is going to the mechanic on the 28th to have the coilovers fitted, brake fluid levels are alright at the minute but ill just keep on checking on them,

Sorry to be a pain but how do i go about getting them parts? Would a local motor factor have them, I will have the brake fluid changed and bled just for peace of mind when i put the new suspension on

Most motor factors should

Thank you, the car is going to the mechanic on the 28th to have the coilovers fitted, brake fluid levels are alright at the minute but ill just keep on checking on them,

 

Sorry to be a pain but how do i go about getting them parts? Would a local motor factor have them, I will have the brake fluid changed and bled just for peace of mind when i put the new suspension on

 

Check it first you may not even need parts. If the bleed nipple is dry leave it be.

 

But most motor factors should, ECP, GSF or local ones.

You will probably find the nipples are different on the front callipers compared to the rears.

Oo er missus.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

  • Author

Thanks guys, ill take the wheel off when i get back from work tomorrow. The brakes came off the car  in october so the garage might not have tightened them up enough when refitting

Thanks guys, ill take the wheel off when i get back from work tomorrow. The brakes came off the car in october so the garage might not have tightened them up enough when refitting

When renewing brake fluid I had failed to tighten up one of the bleed nipples quite enough which led to the loss of brake fluid and the warning light. So hopefully that is all it will be.

As has been mentioned above, dry and clean as much as you can around the caliper, brake, pads, hoses etc, and then check for any sign of fresh fluid.

JRJG

  • Author

Well had a look today and can't really see anything obvious, me and a friend jacked the car up and had a good look, all the seals look alright to us and can't see anything obvious, when I spoke to my mechanic friend he asked if there was any brake fluid on the wheel which there was, I explained that i couldn't see anything and he seems to think the calliper is at fault. If anyone disagrees let me know, i know i will be after a new carrier as the one that is on is looking a little worse for wear.

 

IMG_2866_zps21cf15cc.jpg

 

IMG_2867_zpsed21e36b.jpg

 

IMG_2868_zps3ce09024.jpg

 

IMG_2869_zps88828894.jpg

 

IMG_2870_zps6300cbef.jpg

 

IMG_2872_zps03fbb7c5.jpg

 

Jamie

Still think it looks like its coming from where the brake line attaches judging by the paint bubbling.

 

As for the carrier, give it a wire brush and a paint if it bothers you cosmetically and pull the sliders out clean them and grease them, but other than that there isn't much to do on them.

  • Author

There were no splits anywhere or couldn't see signs of leaking on the line, could it just not be attached properly? And thank you ill give that a try! 

Looking at those pics i would agree with dan

It might only be a pin hole but every time you apply brake that pressure would easily push fluid out. I wouldnt be buying a caliper unless the piston was completely seized and had stopped working.

( which happend to me)

Also if your gona be cleaning the caliper up. When taking the pads out you will be to see if the rubber seal around piston has failed

IRON MAIDEN :rock:

JRJG

TBH its prob the aliminium washers on the banjo have gone out of shape and are leaking. the bottom one fits into a machined area on caliper and when i changed both rear calipers had similar issue as washer wasnt round anymore.

vw dont supply the washers on there own, but can be bought from a hose place

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