Dyno results, disappointing and confusing, any ideas?

[faboka vrs]

Just looking at your dyno and at 5200 rpm the power does stop rising and starts to fall.

[YellowCar]

So we're getting there with the power and torque, just need to keep it up there. Why might the actuator not be holding boost? I can try another run logging boost block to redline, but I suppose we can already see it dropping off. Could that be a mapping issue? Something symptomatic ko3s turbo? Or some other problem?

[YellowCar]

Another good thing though is that these lines aren't as fluttery as the dyno run, look to be a lot smoother?

[faboka vrs]

The dyno will have a much better sample rate then the ecu. So for example we might log every second. Dyno might be 10 times per second. This is why I always say only log 1 group at a time. More you log the slower it goes.

[faboka vrs]

The actuator spring is what I would have thought. You running stock actuator?

[YellowCar]

Ah I see, yes stock actuator.

[faboka vrs]

I'd try and log another boost to the redline. Also lock the knock sensors to see if your getting any knock.

[YellowCar]

Cool will do, 026 for knock sensor wasn't it?

[faboka vrs]

Yeah 26. Don't think it has rpm so you'll need to log another group as well.

[BrownBarge]

Are you converting the NM to LB FT to get your power reading?

[YellowCar]

Are you converting the NM to LB FT to get your power reading?

I did indeed

[robek85]

Hey there. Are you sure your check valve is ok? (http://store.034motorsport.com/check-valve-1-8t-2-7t-aan-pcv-billet.html). The one under inlet manifold for crankcase breather.

 

Boost seems a bit low under 3000 rpm and after 5000rpm. I get about 0.8bar at 2500rpm you only get 0.5bar. You're loosing boost somewhere.

[faboka vrs]

Hey there. Are you sure your check valve is ok? (http://store.034motorsport.com/check-valve-1-8t-2-7t-aan-pcv-billet.html). The one under inlet manifold for crankcase breather.

 

Boost seems a bit low under 3000 rpm and after 5000rpm. I get about 0.8bar at 2500rpm you only get 0.5bar. You're loosing boost somewhere.

 

I've not seen another boost log. Would you mind sharing yours to compare?

[faboka vrs]

Group 26 knock voltage log.

 

You can see cylinder 2 is the loudest out the 4. This I believe is common due to the location of the sensor and picking up more noise. Had a little "Google" and anything below 20-22v seems to be safe.

[YellowCar]

Group 26 knock voltage log.

 

You can see cylinder 2 is the loudest out the 4. This I believe is common due to the location of the sensor and picking up more noise. Had a little "Google" and anything below 20-22v seems to be safe.

Cheers John, so you don't think I need worry about the cylinder 2 reading?

[faboka vrs]

Group 115, boost.

 

 

[faboka vrs]

Cheers John, so you don't think I need worry about the cylinder 2 reading?

 

I wouldn't no.

 

Just been looking around and group 20 might be a better one for logging knock. It shows degress retard. Ideally you want none

[YellowCar]

Group 115, boost.

Are you still thinking actuator for that drop off? I did a bit of reading and a tired spring could produce these symptoms, my mate mentioned vanes as well.

[faboka vrs]

Vanes are for TDI turbo's

 

From what I remember this would normally mean the tired spring like you say. Hows it feeling in general now. I would like to see the results on another dyno to be honest.

[YellowCar]

I'm sure it has been driving better with more poke. Do the actual figures relate to specified in a normal kind of way? Do you think there is anything abnormal?

I've found somewhere that sells refurbished actuators and they don't seem expensive at all so may try one anyway.

As I said if it is making between 205 and 210bhp as the logs suggest that's not far away from what I expected. It would be nicer for it to hold it more at the top end though. What I may do is get the actuator done and pay for a dyno run, especially if I feel it's made a difference.

[faboka vrs]

This is a log I had from someone else, hope they don't mind

 

I don't think boost low down is much of a concern, They are always below requested until the turbo comes on boost. Comparing the two your is a little lower. May be due to the actuator?

 

Good learning this for me thanks

[YellowCar]

This is a log I had from someone else, hope they don't mind

 

I don't think boost low down is much of a concern, They are always below requested until the turbo comes on boost. Comparing the two your is a little lower. May be due to the actuator?

 

Good learning this for me thanks

Yeah it stays up there doesn't it? I think I'll try the actuator and see how it goes.

And John, no problem, thanks for all your help you've been brilliant. I'll keep this thread going and let you know how it's going, and if I book a dyno see if you can come along.

Your advice was spot on - to not blame the map and explore the numbers - some are too quick to say 'spend more money, get an exhaust, get an fmic' when actually it's much more important to explore that the car is doing what it's supposed to do. Especially when for a stage 1 remap, to get these to and just over 200bhp technically speaking you don't need ANY modifications. All I've got in mine now is an 80mm cold feed pipe to a modified airbox with panel filter, some good quality gapped plugs and it seems it's going towards 210. Goes to show modifications aren't always the answer and will not compensate for poor running, in many cases could make it worse as it appeared my DV did. I think that could be corrected with spring tuning and a service but even so.

Thanks again to you and others who offered up blocks and oem parts to explore.

[robek85]

I've not seen another boost log. Would you mind sharing yours to compare?

Sory been busy. How can I upload a file .csv? Lost some data on computer so only have some older logs.

[faboka vrs]

Think it's advanced editor and then attach file.

[YellowCar]

Sit rep: Had my car booked in to my local to have my refurbished actuator fitted, and even though they thought it would be a turbo off job they weren't ready for it. They didn't have manifold gaskets or the time really. A bit disappointing.

Just before it went in I found a small split developing in a short section of hose exiting intake manifold before the one way valve. Seemed to run better when I patched it with amalgamating tape, but it turns out that was probably in my head as now I've replaced that section the split hadn't gone right through.

So basically now I'm thinking if my garage fears a job of 4-5 hours labour? I may be better off taking a 3.5 hour drive to r tech as they should have the knowledge to fit it a fair bit quicker and at the same time give more specialist advice. On that theme does anyone know of anybody closer to Wales who work with a similar level of knowledge of these engines and bays that could turn it round quicker than my local?