I'm asking this as when I bought my car, the AC never got cold, so I'm not sure of "normal" behaviour

 

An initial VCDS scan showed up

 00229 - Refrigerant Pressure: Lower Limit Exceeded

 

VCDS showed 0bar of pressure, and so I first assumed that it was a leak somewhere.

 

I had it into the garage on Monday, and thought whilst there they can check for leaks, and regass if possible.They said the vacuum test came back OK, so gassed it up.

 

Yesterday morning at 7am I checked using VCDS and it showed Coolant Pressure at 2 Bar, with the engine and climatronic off.

 

At 5.30 I checked yesterday I checked, and it was at 3.5 bar, with the engine running, and climatronic set to 22.

If I set the climatronic to LOW, I got cool, but not cold air coming out of the vents.

 

Ambient air temp was only 8c, so does the car realise this, and try to bring the interior up to a minimum temp, the same as it would do if I set it to 22, or should it always give icy cold air when set to LOW, regardless of outside temp?

 

VCDS now shows no faults on the air con, and the compressor shut off code was 0.

 

 

 

 

I had the 00229 fault code. I had aircon re gassed and it worked for a day then blew cool but not icy cold. Yesterday I replaced the high pressure sensor and I am back to icy cold air even with outside temperature at 10c.

Have you got a part number?

 

I haven't got any fault codes logged currently.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221350384580

This is the one I ordered

With a crow foot spanner it took all of about 3 mins to fit.

Ok I've done some logging with the engine idling, and the temp set to LO, and fan speed on max.

 

I assume my compressor is fine as it has shutoff code 0?

 

Is it likely to be the pressure sensor, bearing in mind no fault codes are logged.

 

 

 

 

Address 08: Auto HVAC  (1Z0 907 044 H)

 

17:03:55 Group 001: General

  0.0  Compressor Shut-Off Code

  800 /min  Engine Speed 

  0.0 km/h  Vehicle Speed 

  00:00  Standing Time 

 

17:03:55 Group 002: Compressor

  0.815 A  Compressor Current (actual)

  0.820 A  Compressor Current (specified)

  1000 /min  Compressor Rotations

  1.2 Nm  Compressor Load 

 

17:03:55 Group 003

  4.2 bar  Refrigerant Pressure

  9.6 %  Radiator Fan Activation (actual)

  0.0 %  Radiator Fan Activation (spec.)

  OFF  Engine Speed (increase)

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

                Address 08: Auto HVAC  (1Z0 907 044 H)

 

17:04:12 Group 006

  35.0*C  Evaporator Temperature

  23.0*C  Interior Temperature

  0.0  Left Sunlight Intensity (G107)

  0.0  Right Sunlight Intensity (G134)

 

17:04:12 Group 005: Outlet/Footwell Blower Temperature

  17.0*C  Left Outlet Blower Temperature

  18.0*C  Right Outlet Blower Temperature

  22.0*C  Left Footwell Blower Temp.

  21.0*C  Right Footwell Blower Temp.

 

17:04:12 Group 004: Temperatures

  19.5*C  Outside Temp. Unfiltered

  16.0*C  Outside Temp. Regulation

  16.0*C  Fresh Air Intake Temperature

  64.0*C  Coolant Temperature

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

                Address 08: Auto HVAC  (1Z0 907 044 H)

 

17:04:20 Group 009: Rear Window Heater (Z2) && Aux. Heater

  OFF  Rear Window Heater (Z2 / Actual)

  OFF  Rear Window Heater (Z2 / Spec.)

  OFF  Aux. Heater Status

  0.0  Aux. Heater Current

 

17:04:20 Group 008

  14.00 V  Voltage (Terminal 15)

       

  0.0 %  Dimming (Terminal 58d)

  0.0  Country 

 

17:04:20 Group 007

     Turbine Voltage (actual)

  9.80 V  Turbine Voltage (specified)

  71.2 %  Turbine Load 

  13.70 V  Voltage (Terminal 30)

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

                Address 08: Auto HVAC  (1Z0 907 044 H)

 

17:04:29 Group 012: Left Temperature Flap Control Motor (V158) / Potentiometer (G220)

  27.0  Current Value 

  27.0  Specified Value 

  27.0  Minimum Position (Lower Stop/Close)

  223.0  Maximum Position (Upper Stop/Open)

 

17:04:29 Group 011: Air Recirculation Flap Control Motor (V113) / Potentiometer (G143)

  207.0  Current Value 

  207.0  Specified Value 

  47.0  Minimum Position (Lower Stop/Close)

  207.0  Maximum Position (Upper Stop/Open)

 

17:04:29 Group 010

  OFF  Aux. Heater Request

  OFF  Heater OFF 

  OFF  Back-Up Lights 

  OFF  Front Wiper 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

                Address 08: Auto HVAC  (1Z0 907 044 H)

 

17:04:36 Group 015: Defroster Flap Control Motor (V107) / Potentiometer (G135)

  31.0  Current Value 

  32.0  Specified Value 

  227.0  Minimum Position (Lower Stop/Close)

  32.0  Maximum Position (Upper Stop/Open)

 

17:04:36 Group 014: Center Flap Control Motor (V70) / Potentiometer (G112)

  221.0  Current Value 

  220.0  Specified Value 

  231.0  Minimum Position (Lower Stop/Close)

  27.0  Maximum Position (Upper Stop/Open)

 

17:04:36 Group 013: Right Temperature Flap Control Motor (V159) / Potentiometer (G221)

  25.0  Current Value 

  26.0  Specified Value 

  26.0  Minimum Position (Lower Stop/Close)

  222.0  Maximum Position (Upper Stop/Open)

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

                Address 08: Auto HVAC  (1Z0 907 044 H)

 

17:04:45 Group 017

  3.0  (no units) 

  0.0  Roof Status 

       

       

 

17:04:45 Group 016: Air Flow Flap Control Motor (V71) / Potentiometer (G113)

  27.0  Current Value 

  27.0  Specified Value 

  228.0  Minimum Position (Lower Stop/Close)

  27.0  Maximum Position (Upper Stop/Open)

 

That reads like it isn't trying to do anything. IIRC the current draw is what you would expect when the compressor isn't doing anything.

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With a crow foot spanner it took all of about 3 mins to fit.

I also have a low pressure fault code that I have cleared. It is going in to be checked and re-gassed on Friday. Can the pressure sensor be fitted without losing the gas out of the system?

Yes. There is a schrader valve (like a tyre valve) under the sensor to stop any gas from escaping.

When the compressor in my car was knackered there were no faults codes. Logging with VCDS showed it was working.

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Exactly what I had last year when I had a hole in the condenser and no pressure at all in the system.

Mike

Whoops, that should have been wasn't working.

There was pressure in the system but it didn't change (which it should) and the compressor didn't draw any current.

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Whoops, that should have been wasn't working.

There was pressure in the system but it didn't change (which it should) and the compressor didn't draw any current.

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So just to clarify, from your thread below, did your condenser temp match the exterior temperature?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/index.php?/topic/273332-Octavia-Airon-Problems---Understanding-Measuring-Blocks

So just to clarify, from your thread below, did your condenser temp match the exterior temperature?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/index.php?/topic/273332-Octavia-Airon-Problems---Understanding-Measuring-Blocks

 

Pretty sure it did yes.

 

Basically the compressor had broken up inside, so the shaft was turning but it wasn't compressing anything.

I had the 00229 fault code. I had aircon re gassed and it worked for a day then blew cool but not icy cold. Yesterday I replaced the high pressure sensor and I am back to icy cold air even with outside temperature at 10c.

Can you remember if you had any other fault codes after regassing? Or did it just display the same symptoms as mine?

I'm hoping it's not the compressor as the temperature of the evaporator is different to ambient

No other fault codes. My reasoning was that if it wasn't the pressure sensor then it wasn't going to get fixed as the rest of the parts are too expensive (compared to value of car). For less than £30 it was worth a try and if worse came to worse it eliminated a possible cause. But actually it fixed the issue.

Seems to be quite a common problem on the Octy's. Worth a go rather than replacing condensers and evaporators. Rather spend £30 then maybe have to spend £4-500+ if it's not than spend £4-500+ and find out it was a £30 part.

I will give it a go replacing that.

 

If that doesn't fix it, then I'll be leaving as is I think.

 

Is is 17mm crow foot spanner you needed?

Yes mate mine have a lip on them that you have to put over/ under the bolt and slide on so I had to take a dremel to it so that it'll slide on from the side so if you have to buy a set watch out for that. Mine are only a cheap set (£5 flea bay job) so wasn't that bothered. Could possibly get a short stumpy spanner in. I only had to move it a quarter turn to loosen then done the rest by hand.

Where are you based? If local I'd be happy to do it for you.

Edited 26 March, 201511 yr by Mikek3111

I'm in Lincoln so quite a way.

 

I'll give it a go at somepoint soon.

Yeah that's a fair drive. Let's us know the outcome.

Back from the garage with the air con now working. However they said that it was empty of refigerent when I took it in. They have done a pressure test for 15 minutes and it passed so they put some dye in and regassed it. They did say that a very small leak would not show up on the pressure test and advised me to take it back if the air con stops being cold again.

I have VCDS but is there any way to read the pressure in the air con system using it? I could then see if the pressure was reducing over time. As the car is only a month over 3 years old I may raise the matter with Skoda although the regas was not done at a Skoda garage.

Richard

Back from the garage with the air con now working. However they said that it was empty of refigerent when I took it in. They have done a pressure test for 15 minutes and it passed so they put some dye in and regassed it. They did say that a very small leak would not show up on the pressure test and advised me to take it back if the air con stops being cold again.

I have VCDS but is there any way to read the pressure in the air con system using it? I could then see if the pressure was reducing over time. As the car is only a month over 3 years old I may raise the matter with Skoda although the regas was not done at a Skoda garage.

Richard

Yes, one of the measuring blocks in the HVAC controller tells you the pressure.

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Mine do not give cold air instantly , When I start the car in the morning It took upto 10-20 min. to give some cold air but it is not as cold as it should be . 

When I drive on highway with 80-100 km/h then it come to life . 

I contacted a local dealer he said that Compresser  needs replacement . He said that a FL Octavia compresser with clutch can be installed in my pre-FL one 

And also there are no error code showing on VCDS scan

Having looked into this a bit more I'm not sure now.

Monitoring the AC compressor rpm using the climatronic diagnostic, when the engine is at 1000 rpm, I shows 1300. When at 2000rpm climatronic is reporting 2600 so it rises in line with the engine.

If the compressor is duff would this normally happen?

Having looked into this a bit more I'm not sure now.

Monitoring the AC compressor rpm using the climatronic diagnostic, when the engine is at 1000 rpm, I shows 1300. When at 2000rpm climatronic is reporting 2600 so it rises in line with the engine.

If the compressor is duff would this normally happen?

Yes, as the compressor is attached directly to the aux belt, no clutch or anything so it runs continuously.

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