When do you consider the handbrake correctly adjusted?

How do you test the handbrake for perfect working condition?

I just do hand brake turns mot time tells me....

I just do hand brake turns.

Obviously. Anyone else please?

Answer to first question: if the handbrake is correctly adjusted, one only needs to pull the handbrake lever (3 clicks) for effectively applying the handbrake.

 

Answer to second question: raise both rear wheels at the same time, release the handbrake and check that both rear wheels turn easily by hand, then pull the lever gradually (one click at a time) and check that both wheels lock at the same click at the same time by trying to rotate them by hand after each click.

A very reasonable and effective answer, Raed.

My handbrake lever is adjusted so that I can apply maximum 5 teeth.

One other thing I do is drive on a flat, dry road at 20 km/h in straight line without holding the steering wheel and apply sudden full handbrake. Both rear wheels should block while the car stops without drifting in any direction. In other words, straight skid marks.

 

I passed local MOT yesterday using the method described by Raed. But they mentioned something else: rear right wheel service brake is 28% less effective than its left sister. I passed because a 30% maximum difference is allowed but I am not happy and I want to fix the issue. I am thinking to do 2 things:

• check free movement of both pistons inside rear right brake cylinder
• bleed the brakes

What else should I check?

Edited 28 March, 201511 yr by RicardoM

Really can't link your issue with brake effectiveness difference to a single cause.

 

to start, what are the front brakes readings? is there any difference from front right to front left effectiveness? if the front left is significantly less effective than the front right (opposite to your case at the rear) assuming everything is ok at the front brake calipers, I guess it is related to the Master brake cylinder; more specifically to the piston that feeds brake oil to the front left and rear right inside the master cylinder because the brake circuit layout type on a Felicia is (X) type also called diagonal circuit (Master cylinder has 2 pistons each feeds a brake piston at the front and another at the rear that are on opposite sides of the car).

 

Another probable cause maybe uneven shoe pad thickness at the right rear drum which is a result of one of the shoes jamming or having limited movement therefore the drum's brake cylinder pistons will favor pushing one of the shoes more than the other (the easier to move). This reduces brake effectiveness between both rear wheels.

 

I agree with you needing to check the rear pistons movement but maybe you better start with easier checks first.

 

Good luck

A very reasonable and effective answer, Raed.

My handbrake lever is adjusted so that I can apply maximum 5 teeth.

One other thing I do is drive on a flat, dry road at 20 km/h in straight line without holding the steering wheel and apply sudden full handbrake. Both rear wheels should block while the car stops without drifting in any direction. In other words, straight skid marks.

 

I passed local MOT yesterday using the method described by Raed. But they mentioned something else: rear right wheel service brake is 28% less effective than its left sister. I passed because a 30% maximum difference is allowed but I am not happy and I want to fix the issue. I am thinking to do 2 things:

• check free movement of both pistons inside rear right brake cylinder
• bleed the brakes

What else should I check?

Handbrake is NOT hydraulic related. It's a totally mechanical device intended to slow /stop car in event of faulty hydraulics.  Never forget that with a servo, the manual effect of a handbrake is not being to be too effective. Shoes are too hard.

Thanks Raed,

Since I mentioned only the rear right wheel brake, all other 3 wheels are fine. But your diagnosis is correct in case one of the front brakes were faulty. So I went straight for the rear right brake cylinder and found one of the pistons partially seized from dirty/old brake fluid. Shoes thickness was even. I cleaned both pistons and the cylinder then changed all brake fluid with fresh Ferodo DOT4 (500 ml) while bleeding the brakes. I went back to local MOT garage and tried again both service and hand brakes. Result: my brakes are in top shape now. I am super happy

 

I advice anyone to change the fluid and bleed the brakes every 2 years. You'll be amazed how effective the brakes become.

_{Glad to hear the good news. I agree with you regarding changing brake oil every two years. Four years ago, I changed the rear brakes cylinders, the Master brake cylinder and renewed the brake oil with ATE DOT3 brake oil (No ABS on my car so no need for DOT4) and the braking was amazingly effective and the brake pedal feel was like brand new :yes: . Old brake oil was black just like engine oil.}