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Spray Sealant

J306TD

By J306TD
in Styling and Car Care

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devonutopia Grand Master

devonutopia

Posted
Posted

Hmm, never used a spray one.  For the last 6 months or so I've been finishing cars with Menzerna Powerlock which gives a real nice finish,

 

I have just bought some CarPro Hydro2 which is meant to be a spray on, rinse off sealant.  It's not cheap though.  £75 odd for a relatively small bottle.

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V6Jules Proficient

V6Jules

Posted
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BSD 50:50 with Gtechniq c2v3 is another story...

Do you mix them in a bottle then spray? Never thought about trying mixing products like this as I'm no chemist but if it works :-D

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BTS22 Proficient

BTS22

Posted
Posted

Do you mix them in a bottle then spray? Never thought about trying mixing products like this as I'm no chemist but if it works :-D

 

You do indeed. I wouldn't really recommend mixing loads of different chemicals but this has been done lots on DW and I've done this myself and can testify it works well and there are no adverse effects.

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V6Jules Proficient

V6Jules

Posted
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Grab does not in anyway affect performance

It's not a problem for me

The product speaks for itself

I've tried mixing it but it makes little difference in my opinion

The grab just makes it a little less easy to tell when its buffed right off. I have some c2v3 to use on top of the c1 on the wife's eunos so will compare the two

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littleade Experienced

littleade

Posted
Posted

Hellshine abyss will give you what you're after, but make sure you apply it really thinly otherwise it can be a bu88er to buff off after. Their hellshine QD is brilliant if you want a super slick finish.

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laff82 Rising Star

laff82

Posted
Posted

What's the best? I'm looking for a wet glossy look. That also lasts approx 3-5 months

Sent from my Galaxy S5

just out of curiosity any reason you need a spray rather than paste/liquid?

spray abyss has been mentioned a few times and is what my car was wearing over the winter. Gloss levels were very good, but being a sealant i thought it lacked a little something on race blue, warmth maybe. Anyway I did 3 months + without a qd/spray sealant top up, with regular and enthusiastic use of pre wash as my commute is part rural and it gets mucky. A topup with BSD, project 32 or whatever the qd+ de jour is should get you the durability you are after whilst looking pretty good too.

For another option you could have a read over at polished bliss. They were big fans of the werkstatt acrylic kit, which was a liquid AIO base, a sprayable & layerable sealant coat for use every little while and a qd type for gloss as and when. The werkstatt stuff has gone for the moment at least but replaced with the carlack stuff at polished bliss.

have a read here

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2014/11/introducing-the-carlack-range/

and here if you are so inclined

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/blog/2013/02/werkstat-acrylic-demo-video/

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PowerMaxed Enthusiast

PowerMaxed

Posted
Posted

We have recently launched our own sealant

 

Paint Sealant

Our paint sealant is an easy on easy off sealant for those who want nothing but the best protection, durability, shine and beading. Our sealant can be used on the entire vehicle including glass, plastics, alloys, steel and rubbers.

Benefits
  • Instantly revives the deep luster and smoothness of your paint
  • Versatility: Use on any surface
  • Durability: Up to 4 months*
  • Can be layered (leave 24 hours between coats)
  • Cure Time: Roughly 5 minutes
  • Bottle Size: 100ml
How To Use

Use in a cool shaded area, Spray sealant onto a cotton pad or microfibre cloth and begin wiping it in evenly, using light pressure and overlapping strokes. Once on, leave the sealant to dry for roughly 5 minutes and then buff off using a clean microfibre cloth.

Alternative Use

Dilution Ratio: 40:1 (25ml in 1 litre of water). Make sure car is fully clean, and allow to drip for a few minutes (No need to dry), spray the mixed solution all over the car, coating the paintwork, glass, alloys, rubbers, or plastics, then hose off, continue to fully dry your car.

*Will be prolonged by using the alternative use method

 

http://www.powermaxed.com/clean-your-car/sealant

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J306TD Experienced

J306TD

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You can use it on side windows and back windows with no issues, but I would not put it on the windscreen (we have our own glass sealant for that)

Thanks for clarification on that Wayne

Sent from my Galaxy S5

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AlanRHB Collaborator

AlanRHB

Posted
Posted (edited)

As this old guy is becoming confused.com reading all of this info Chris and Wayne ... is the sealant applied before you wax polish or instead of ?

 

ie: ...  1/  hose off the loose dirt...

 

2/  apply PowerMax TFR  with the Mesto Pressure Foamer ... allow to dwell then rinse off...

 

3/  Use Farecla Clay Mitt with detail spray or shampoo as lubricant...

 

4/  Shampoo/wash vehicle...

 

5/  Spray Powermax Sealant diluted 40:1 (with the Mesto Sprayer) onto clean wet surface as per "Alternative Use" method "post 16" above...

 

Do I then need to apply wax polish and hand buff, or is the sealant sufficient protection and shine ? ? ? ...and will I need to reapply sealant and wax polish after each wash.

 

Crash course on basic detailing please chaps ... :) :) :)

 

Cheers ... Alan.

 

footnote ... no nasty marks or scratches that I can see need any buffing.

Edited by AlanRHB
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V6Jules Proficient

V6Jules

Posted
Posted (edited)

A quick 101 on terms (don't want to sound condescending just clearing things up)

Polishing refers to using abrasives to repair the finish of the paint removing scratches and swirling. some polishes are all in one products that offer some form of protection like a wax or sealant.

A wax or sealant is a protective coating you apply to your paint to increase lustre and protect it from the elements. They contain no abrasives so you are not really "polishing" when you apply a wax or sealant.

Starting with clean paint from your washing and claying you can either

1.apply wax or sealant

2. Restore the paint with polish then apply your wax or sealant

If you apply a sealant or wax and then polish you will be removing the first product with the polish

Edited by V6Jules
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AlanRHB Collaborator

AlanRHB

Posted
Posted

Thank you Jules, just what I needed to bring me up to speed ... not condescending at all.

 

Way back in the "olden days"  (60s/70s  pre acrylic or two pack (iscocianate)  apart from Vauxhall, who were using acrylic even then) we used to flat with 500 wet or dry then buff with say Farecla G7 for heavy scratches marks or "orange peel" ... a good thickness of cellulose paint on cars in those days ... :) then G3 or T-cut ... we called this "cutting" ... though we were of course producing the shine after "flatting" ... then finish with "polish" wax or later resin based polish.

So you may appreciate my confusion ... :) ... you have probably saved me some money my friend .

 

Regards ... Alan.

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