Morning all,

 

This all started about 5 weeks ago, got in the car one morning put the key in all the lights came on as usual, car cranked but did not fire.  I repeated this 4 or 5 times, cranking for about 5/6 seconds and leaving it to rest for 30 seconds all of a sudden bust into life like there was nothing wrong.  All was fine for a couple of weeks, exactly the same thing again, first thing on a morning wouldn't start then all of a sudden it did...

 

On to this morning, exactly the same thing again.  Apart from this time I repeated my cranking 5/6 seconds and leaving for 30 seconds so much that the battery started going flat.  Just put the battery on charge I'll get the laptop out shortly to see if any faults have been logged. 

 

Has anyone had a similar issue, anything you can suggest?

 

Many thanks

 

Dave

 

EDIT:  Just a thought, the immobiliser, is it part of the alarm or is it a separate system...?

Edited 26 April, 201511 yr by Quattrodaveuk

Immobiliser is separate I believe, built in to the dash pod.

Which engine does it have, is it the 2.0 PD BKD by any chance? Mine did this randomly about once every 6 months or so for the five years I owned the car and I never got to the bottom of it!  I have heard of the camshaft position sensor being blamed for random non-starting problems on this engine. Unfortunately when they are intermittently faulty they often don't log any fault codes, so a scan won't necessarily reveal anything.

 

I think the immobiliser can be ruled out as VAG immobilisers when immobilised will allow the engine to start normally, run for 2 seconds, then cut out. It won't completely prevent the engine from firing like yours is doing. 

Edited 26 April, 201511 yr by nick74

Thanks guys,

 

Nick74, oh that's a bugger!  Defiantly a 2.0 PD not sure if its a BKD.  How did you get yours to start when it was being iffy? Do you know if the cam shaft sensors are pricey, is it worth just changing it?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

Edited 26 April, 201511 yr by Quattrodaveuk

Well, the good news is she's running again, bad news no faults logged and it really didn't want to start took a good 20 seconds of cranking.  If I were to describe it it would say it started like one of the old style diesels that had air in the fuel lines. 

cough.......cough.......cough.......cough.......

cough.cough........cough.cough........cough.cough........

cough.cough.cough.........cough.cough.cough........cough.cough.cough..........  then just about running on what feels like 2 cylinders then 3 then 4......

 

Hmmmm could it be air in the fuel lines, if so where's it leaking and why only every few weeks...?

With mine if I just cranked and cranked it it would eventually start after about 30 seconds. Like you say, it is very like air in the fuel lines, but I went round the fuel line connections checking for leaks and found nothing. I took it to an independent VW specialist (after two Skoda dealers looking at it and finding nothing wrong) and they were sure it was a failing tandem pump. So I spent £300+ on a new tandem pump.... No better!

Trouble is with a fault that only manifests itself every 6 months you think you've fixed it, only for the same fault to pop up again a few weeks later. At least with yours happening more frequently you have a better chance of pinning it down! There have been quite a few cases of this with 2.0 BKD engines on here in the past couple of years and no one has yet come back and posted a definitive solution unfortunately. The really frustrating thing is you can bet it's actually something really simple if you could but find it.

OK happened again yesterday morning, I really need to get to the bottom of it, its driving me crazy...

Has anyone got a link to a fuel system layout for a 140PD??

Can I measure fuel pressures with VCDS, if so how?

 

Thanks

Dave

Unfortunately PDs don't have a fuel pressure sensor or monitor their own fuel pressure in any way so there isn't a way of checking it within VCDS. To test the pressure you would need to connect a fuel pressure gauge to the tandem pump.

If you have VCDS though next time you have a non-start situation it would be worth checking if the ECU is getting readings from the crank and cam sensors, if only to eliminate that as a cause.

Hi everyone.  New to the Forum and new to Skoda and really needing some help. 2007 2.0Tdi PD Octavia estate L&K. BKD 871351.  92000mls. Private buy and had car a week then car wouldn't lock one night, with either remote. Next night car started as normal but after about a mile it cut out as if the diesel had been shut off and I've not been able to start it again. Turns over but won't start. Diagnostic check showed fault with one glow plug and fuel pump relay. New relay (449) made no difference. I've tested all relays and fuses I can find but seem ok except for big 9 pin (309) under E-Box as don't know how to test it.  Mechanic with laptop on holiday for two weeks so trying to eliminate simple stuff but not sure what to do next. Seller had put new battery and fuel filter on so now wondering, after reading all the great info on here, if he'd been trying to fix this problem already, and failed!  Would really appreciate any help.  Thanks.  Not sure if this should be a reply or a new post.

hi Barrock, I have the same problem. New relay dont fix it. Pump works, tandem pump works, no faults.

 

cranks but can't fire. Can you please tell me what are you did? Many thanks.

So three people / cars with the same fault going back to April and no one has either fixed it or shared their findings!?

hi Barrock, I have the same problem. New relay dont fix it. Pump works, tandem pump works, no faults.

 

cranks but can't fire. Can you please tell me what are you did? Many thanks.

Hi Guys, I didn't think to post as nobody seemed interested initially, sorry for that.  I actually had several electrical problems at the same time so didn't know if things were related or not, main one being central locking packed up next night after non starting. After much investigation, local mechanic was convinced a broken wire somewhere was the problem.  To cut a long story short, new feed from fuse block to fuel pump instantly cured starting problem and likewise from fuse block to comfort convenience module fixed the central locking.  I'd like to flag up how much help I've also had from "Mikeolroyd" on this, top man.  Hope this helps.

my check notes:

- damaged timing belt (possibly not rotating camshafts) - excluded (all fine)

- buggy intake manifold flap - excluded (I have very new V157 and works as intended)

- turbo hose off - tested, no changes

- manually start fuel pump 4 times via diag - no changes

- tested easy start spray - engine got 400rpm (thats 200rpm more), but I dont like use this "God sprays"

- water temperature sensor off - no changes

- battery off, car reset - no changes

- all fuses double checked, and all are fine (F24 for fuel pump and fan was replaced for the new one)

- more glowing (60 sec) - no changes

- V157 works

- tandem pump works

- fuel pump works

- relays works

- no faults

 

 

I had bad V157, so I replace it for thw new one and replace his fuse. But! I set this fuse to the wrong slot and drove to home. After 7km showed me a red battery icon and my engine stalled. Problem was fuse for fuel pump, error "Fuel Pump Relay J17 - Open Circuit". Fuel pump don't worked in all 7km. Now seems all ok, but I have fuel system problem, probably air in fuel.. I must check it today.

So three people / cars with the same fault going back to April and no one has either fixed it or shared their findings!?

 

I'm afraid I 'fixed' the problem with mine by part exchanging it for a Toyota!

 

I still see my old car being driven around the area by the current owner, an elderly chap, and if I see him parked up I'll have to ask if he ever got to the bottom of this.

Edited 4 December, 201510 yr by nick74

I had a similar issue - Went on for a few weeks till eventually it would not start - Despite seeming to turn over with no problem.

It was a very simple fix - New battery 

Apparently they they can be quite sensitive to voltage.

at friday I replaced for a new battery, problem still remained.. but I fixed this problem very easy! I had air in fuel (tandem pump & injectors), fixed by 2 seconds cranking over Oil Fail beeping, engine cranked, 10 minutes waiting for fuel system regeneration with running engine and now is all fine. Hope will help you.

I know this topic is old, and there’s a few but I’m hoping this will help the next person, as I could never get a definitive answer to the problem.

 

Problem:

I had a 2008 Skoda Scout 2.0 TDI. Randomly it would fail to start, I would have to churn the engine over, oil warning blaring until it finally fired to life. Almost like an old air locked diesel that needed bleeding. At first it would do this once, maybe every 6 months, and then be totally fine for another 6 months. Eventually though it was constant.  Weirdly though, like other people found, it wouldn’t happen if car was parked slightly downhill.

 

tried everything 

fuel filters changed

tandem fuel pump changed 

even fitted NRV’s everywhere

Still the same.

 

eventually  pulled the injectors, one injected had a slight Nick on one of the seals, so my thinking this was enough for fuel to slowly seep through, creating an airlock.  Rebuilt, and problem solved, no more starting problems.

 

Hope this helps, not saying everyone’s will be the same, but this eventually solved the issue.