Thanks Toxicvrs.

The garage apparently swapped 1 to 3 before we got it, hoping that by moving it (I don't know if any cleaning was done), that it might solve the problem.

My father then drove it on Saturday 20 miles without issue. We left it at the garage then until later (as we had two cars already with us - long story!) anyway picked it up 4 hours later and it drove fine for 15 miles before going into limp mode.

It did it again 20 miles later, before making it the last stretch of the journey without a reset.

I think the cleaner might be disturbing it up as I had two reasonable runs in it tonight. Though compared to Saturday these were shorter.

What kind of rev range was it going up to before gear change?

When I am trying to flush it through I am taking it up to 4500rpm the majority of the time.

 

If limp mode kicks in - you can't get above 2000rpm.

When I am trying to flush it through I am taking it up to 4500rpm the majority of the time.

If limp mode kicks in - you can't get above 2000rpm.

Sounds about right, mine used to love to rev when not in limp mode, 4500 seems about right for helping to clear it

Sounds about right, mine used to love to rev when not in limp mode, 4500 seems about right for helping to clear it

 

Toxicvrs, Let us know how you get on with getting the codes.

 

Also is the fuel injector you have there okay and does it do everything correctly and isn't in limp mode?

 

Then I would like to find out how much it would be for a fuel injector off you.

 

Thank you!!

I wouldn't persist with trying to clean this faulty injector, but do some more diagnostics on it to rule in/out a faulty solenoid coil inside it, which cleaning could not improve.  All you need is a multimeter set to a low (e.g. 200 Ohms) resistance range. Unplug the wiring loom connectors from each injector in turn, and put your probes onto the pins of the injector (not the loom connector).  See if No.3 injector has a resistance that's significantly different to the other two.

 

All the time you're driving around with imbalanced fuelling and misfiring, the ECU will be fighting a losing battle to get the overall fuelling right, and you may cause damage to other components like the cat.

I wouldn't persist with trying to clean this faulty injector, but do some more diagnostics on it to rule in/out a faulty solenoid coil inside it, which cleaning could not improve.  All you need is a multimeter set to a low (e.g. 200 Ohms) resistance range. Unplug the wiring loom connectors from each injector in turn, and put your probes onto the pins of the injector (not the loom connector).  See if No.3 injector has a resistance that's significantly different to the other two.

 

All the time you're driving around with imbalanced fuelling and misfiring, the ECU will be fighting a losing battle to get the overall fuelling right, and you may cause damage to other components like the cat.

 

Yeah I know what you mean my your last sentence and I have been worrying about doing more damage to the car.

 

Also Wino its been booked in the garage for Thursday. It won't be moved now till Thursday. They are going to try cleaning it out there. Also I can't just keep throwing money at it because I don't have much money to spend.  

 

But thank you for your post

 

KangarooReviews2014

If you want to save money, don't take a car to a garage, learn to mend it yourself.

 

I'll pop out to our car and try to take a picture of a resistance measurement on an injector, to show you what I mean, it's quite easy. If you don't own a multimeter, and can't borrow one, I would suggest spending £5-£10 on a cheap one, you don't need anything fancy.

 

 

Here you go. A pic showing the connector you need to unplug, with a big blue arrow showing which way to push the retaining clip before pulling the connector upwards:

 

 

A pic of the injector with the connector unplugged:

 

 

 

A pic of the meter probes being held onto the two pins of the injector's connector:

Thanks everyone and Wino

 

We have multimeter so I am going to have a go at this in a minute. Thats really helpful.

 

I had a post up about if there is anything VAG COM too.

 

Were not going to drive anymore, as others have said too it should have shifted the muck by now!

Just to update - each injector is giving the same resistance. Therefore it is hopefully just muck!

 

The garage are doing to clean it up thoroughly anyway manually, rather than risking driving it any further.

Was worth checking anyway.

 

 

I've discovered an easy way to tell which of the two possible injector types you have fitted to your car (if it's definitely a BME engine; car data sticker in service book should tell you this). This should help you track down a correct secondhand replacement, if needed.

 

The 03E906031, earlier part number, has a prominent green colour band around the injector body, the 03E906031C, later part number, has instead a reddish bit a bit further up the injector. Have a look at google image results for those two numbers and you'll see the difference.  You can't really see the green band in my photos (you can just see a glimpse of it in the second photo, below the connector), but it's easy to see them with a slightly more side-on view; I just checked.   I imagine it will be just as easy to spot if your injectors have the red plastic bit instead.

Just one other thought.

 

Since it's not very clear what the garage originally did when fault-finding, I wonder if my earlier comment about the No.3 injector wiring having been proved OK, is actually true.

 

If for instance, they hadn't actually moved any injectors, but coilpacks instead (which is a more common strategy when faced with misfires on these), then maybe blaming the injector itself is wrong, and it could still be a wire that has cracked insulation and is corroded at that point making for a poor/intermittent connection? Worth a close look at the wiring near the No.3 injector plug, I'd say, in strong light. As you saw yesterday on your car, those are pretty thin and flimsy wires.

Wino, Yep your last comment is correct yep those wires do look flimsy. However I have not checked in my car at them yet. When I get home I will. I thought they looked pretty secure.

 

My car is definitely BME because I got it from my service manual of the car.

Edited 29 April, 201511 yr by KangarooReviews2014

What you tend to get when these injectors are breaking down is heavy plug fouling caused by over fuelling. If you remove the plugs and 1 is jet black, I suspect cylinder 3 judging from your story, then providing the coil, plug, timing and compression are ok then it's time for a new injector.

UPDATE!!!

 

Car is still in garage and they are going to replace one of the injectors.

 

So they are sure it's an ejector then?

UPDATE!!!

 

Car is still in garage and they are going to replace one of the injectors.

 

At what price?

At what price?

 

Erh, Basically I think you said it. £150.00. However the Garage has said if it is not the problem they will send it back free of charge.

 

So they are sure it's an ejector then?

 

Yep they are pretty certain. Will will have to wait and see

Erh, Basically I think you said it. £150.00. However the Garage has said if it is not the problem they will send it back free of charge.

 

Oh, man, why wouldn't you want one of the new genuine ones I linked you to that were about £50 off Ebay? You could've given that to them and saved yourself a hundred.

I suppose they might've charged you a bit more to fit it, as they wouldn't be getting their margin on supplying, but I can't imagine they'd've added a hundred?

Oh, man, why wouldn't you want one of the new genuine ones I linked you to that were about £50 off Ebay? You could've given that to them and saved yourself a hundred.

I suppose they might've charged you a bit more to fit it, as they wouldn't be getting their margin on supplying, but I can't imagine they'd've added a hundred?

 

Yep, I know, However I just decided at the time a newer one was better and they have ordered it. I know that was a new part on ebay. The part they are getting is new and is a Skoda genuine part. I can't do much now. Also I haven't had very good experience with Ebay UK in the past.

 

 

I guess that you're better off if it doesn't fix it, and they honour what they've said about sending it back, compared with where you'd be if you supplied it.

I guess that you're better off if it doesn't fix it, and they honour what they've said about sending it back, compared with where you'd be if you supplied it.

 

Car is being collected from the garage today (Hopefully is fixed - my mum and dad are collecting it). It was very quick service (AKA 5 star service) Can't wait to test drive it. They only ordered the part yesterday!!