Help - Rear Brake Caliper Brake Pipe sheared

[fuey]

Hi / Help !!!!!

 

I attempted to change the drivers side rear brake caliper today (purchased new TRW caliper).

 

However - the solid brake hose (as pictured) has sheared - help !!!

 

Any ideals on what to do next, or options?????

 

I've clamped the brake hose already to stop the brake fluid leaking.

I've can easily take the caliper off (13mm and 15mm spanners)

I was attempting to free the solid brake pipe from the brake hose, so I could feed it through the hole on the brake caliper plate, when the brake hose sheared. (11mm spanner).

Help, help, help, help.

 

I tried both nuts on the solid brake hose, both were stiff, so I thought I only needed to loosen the top nut to release the brake pipe first - that's when it sheared.

 

 

REALLY NEED HELP !!!!

 

Eurocarparts don't sell solid brake pipe, and I've been to the scrap yard, but didn't find anything that was exactly the same.

 

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

:(

 

 

 

[vee8essie]

were do you live

[rum4mo]

Find your local car parts place, I'm meaning proper car parts place, as they tend to be able to fabricate a new pipe if you can show them both end fittings and measure the pipe length using something like string. Bending the new straight bit of pipe to shape will be a bit tricky. If you don't fancy any of this, get your local Skoda place to order in a new part - it will be the correct shape.

If it makes you feel any better, I did something like that on the front discs on my Passat - that car is based on the Audi A4, so maybe because of that, the short pipe was made of a copper alloy and the nuts were brass, so far so good, no corrosion problems! Trouble is, road grit forms a "cement" on the nuts, brass is a bit soft, so in my case, no sheared pipes, just nuts that rounded off - and I was even using flare nut spanners!

Edited 2 May, 2015 by rum4mo

[fuey]

were do you live

Warrington / Runcorn

Help

[emoji30]

[fuey]

Find your local car parts place, I'm meaning proper car parts place, as they tend to be able to fabricate a new pipe if you can show them both end fittings and measure the pipe length using something like string. Bending the new straight bit of pipe to shape will be a bit tricky. If you don't fancy any of this, get your local Skoda place to order in a new part - it will be the correct shape.

If it makes you feel any better, I did something like that on the front discs on my Passat - that car is based on the Audi A4, so maybe because of that, the short pipe was made of a copper alloy and the nuts were brass, so far so good, no corrosion problems! Trouble is, road grit forms a "cement" on the nuts, brass is a bit soft, so in my case, no sheared pipes, just nuts that rounded off - and I was even using flare nut spanners!

Was using a spanner to loosen that but the correct process????

Both just seemed stiff, so I started with the top on just so I could release the brake hose, so the caliper could come off.

[emoji30]

[rum4mo]

Was using a spanner to loosen that but the correct process????

Both just seemed stiff, so I started with the top on just so I could release the brake hose, so the caliper could come off.

[emoji30]

I think that scrubbing the area and flooding with some brake fluid to act as a penetrating/release fluid, then giving it a few minutes/hours to soak in to the "cement" before trying to use a spanner. What I think happens to the ones with steel pipes is that if you manage to rotate the fitting, it will shear the pipe as the pipe at the point where it passes through the fitting is seized to the fitting, while the flared end is still being held still on the calliper. In the case of the copper pipe and brass fitting, the copper pipe and brass fitting get distorted and "are one", I had to hold the fitting in a vice and rotate the calliper to get the pipe off.

[fuey]

The pipe is fubar'd at the top, looking to get hold of a replacement, but I don't know a fabricator.

Does anyone know the part number I need?

[rum4mo]

Try looking here:- http://www.partscats.info/

[mikey vrs]

Any local garage near you will make you up a brake pipe for a small cost,just take the old one with both unions & they will make up a pipe & put the correct flare on each end,i suspect when you undid the union it was siezed onto the brake pipe & as you undid it it twisted the pipe until it sheared,when i replaced my calipers i had a union that was siezed into the caliper so i undid it at the flexi pipe end & soaked it in penetrating fluid & worked it back & forwards & it eventually freed off. If your struggling to undo the unions now then use a socket to undo them now the pipe is out of the way. 

[vee8essie]

give us your post code and I will come and help you out

[vee8essie]

and a contact phone number can come over tomorrow  I have a brake pipe flareing tool

[fuey]

and a contact phone number can come over tomorrow  I have a brake pipe flareing tool

Amazing, i'll pm you.

I've just popped out tonight (in the dark) to see if it's leaking fluid, looks minimal, but will have to check again in the morning.

Will chat to you tomorrow I guess !

[fuey]

Try looking here:- http://www.partscats.info/

Oh my god, what an amazing site.

 

I think I've found the part number.

Either

1K0611764M

or

1K0611764L

 

http://www.partscats.info/skoda/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=sk&number=81&set=98&ein=2008&f=419&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=6&grf=061130412&bf=61130&hgug=611&ug=11&parent_id=109217

Item 9

9 1K0611764M brake pipe from brake hose to piston housing right 1 PR-2UA/2UC (9) 1K0611764L brake pipe from brake hose to piston housing

for models with heavy duty suspension

right 1 PR-2UB

[giandougl]

Suggest DIY..

Buy some bundy tube (copper brake-pipe) with a flare tool to mould brake-pipe ends, and new brake-pipe end, nuts.

Alternative as above suggested, take complete pipe to any local garage to make-up a new pipe etc for you, don't forget to get some DOT4 brake fluid..LOL..for bleeding system.

[Anddenton]

don't forget to get some DOT4 brake fluid..LOL..for bleeding system.

And an Easybleed

[fuey]

I have 1L of Dot4, and a diy bleed kit (bottle and aqua tubing).

Have soaked the "tight" end in wd40 over night, hoping that doesn't give me problems.

[fuey]

The sheared end is loose but haven't inspected to see if the bit of pipe can be pushed through so I could reuse the but, not even sure if that's safe.

[Nikonite]

Warrington / Runcorn

Help

[emoji30]

There is no help for you living in Runcorn!!!! (former scouser / Widnesian   )

[meta55b]

Mines done exactly the same when I had to take of, strip down and clean my Rear OS caliper at the start of the rear. Good job I was at the outlaws at the time, the wife's dad can make brake pipes.

[fuey]

Without sounding weird, but I love vee8essie

SAVED THE DAY

[giandougl]

The sheared end is loose but haven't inspected to see if the bit of pipe can be pushed through so I could reuse the but, not even sure if that's safe.

Do not advise re-using old nuts, the ends are cheap, probably from any good motor factor shop (maybe Halfords) ensure you have old nut/s with you for comparison, as they do come in different sizes/ threads.

[fuey]

Yeah, the nut to the flexi pipe was apparently standard (m7 or something).

The nut that was in the caliper was larger, not sure of size.

Halfords didn't have the larger one in stock, went to DRB in Warrington (vee8essie was ferrying me around, what an absolute legend), DRB made a new brake pipe up for £2.50.

So after a few hours of fitting, bleeding, test drive, rebleeding, the car is back on the road.

Couldn't have done it without vee8essie, or this forum.

Can't thank vee8essie enough.

(He has his modded mk1 octy vrs for sale 1.8T 20v, if anyone is interested, 210bhp, was lovely)

Edited 4 May, 2015 by fuey

[fuey]

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/index.php?/topic/352202-Mk1-Octavia-VRS---Lots-of-mods-£££'s-spent

Mk1 Octavia VRS - Lots of mods £££'s spent

[giandougl]

There are some really helpful members, 'vee8essie' must be one of them.

Glad your mobile again..

[fuey]

Managed to pump the hand brake lever to push the old piston out.

Looks like the old rubber seal melted and formed a sticky residue on the piston.

Cleaned up very easily with brake fluid and 3000 wet-dry.

Will post images up of innards as I didn't really understand why you have to wind them back in till now (the piston sits on a screw).