Has anyone tried one of these yet? I have been toying with the idea for some time know.

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/n75-info.html

Found this link SCN, looks interesting

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20916&page=1&pp=20&highlight=034+906+283

BTW Vag Parts are a lot cheaper.

tried it.. "seemed to work better"

but so did the lucky rabbits foot.....

Des,

you still need to try the J version...I can collect it this weekend and pass onto Dave.

What will this do to the power delivery? Thanks

Is it an easy job to change this yourself?

Your remap is based around the standard N75 valve, if you change it then you confuse the ECU as the boost characteristics are different to what it expects. The usual result when changing to an N75J or H when RR and logged is that the car feels faster because it is stronger at lower revs due to a larger boost spike, however power at high revs is seriously compromised.

would changing the N75 help everyone who remaps their car?

would changing the N75 help everyone who remaps their car?

I wouldn't advise it and I've seen it cause tuners problems when a car acts strangely after remapping and the owner hasn't informed the tuner of the N75 change. The remap controls the N75 so the effect that changing the N75 has can be done by the remap if that's what you want.

Des' date='

you still need to try the J version...I can collect it this weekend and pass onto Dave.[/quote']

I've tried the J type but it took the boost down to 0.7bar. Then again I don't know if the one I have is the right part number. I've got the one of the S2.

I've tried the J type but it took the boost down to 0.7bar. Then again I don't know if the one I have is the right part number. I've got the one of the S2.

That's the H which is basically the same as the one ECS sell.

Is it an easy job to change this yourself?

Yep, 3 Jubilee Clips and a plug in connection. Not that I recommend changing them at the mo, need to do some more research first.

That's the H which is basically the same as the one ECS sell.

???...I've been told to get the 'J' type that Vag Parts sell, which I have. The 'F' one is standard on the RS but apparently the G,H & J are OK.

Link to Vag Part item.

clicky

Also worth noting that the J fits in a reversed orientation comapred to the C, F and H versions.

Also worth noting that the J fits in a reversed orientation comapred to the C, F and H versions.

I take it it's just the top 2 small hoses........just checking

???...I've been told to get the 'J' type that Vag Parts sell' date=' which I have. The 'F' one is standard on the RS but apparently the G,H & J are OK.

Link to Vag Part item.

clicky

If Mike mapped your car with the F then that's what the car will run best on. The N75 is a wastegate control valve which acts on instructions from the ECU, the J and H effectively have a delayed reaction so keep the wastegate shut when the ECU wants it open and this is how more boost is achieved. If you want more boost just get the remap to tell the N75 to stay closed longer.

I take it it's just the top 2 small hoses........just checking

Yes, and this means the electrical connector is on the other side. On the Golf this sometimes means rerouting the cable, having it slightly stretched or in extreme cases having to extend the wiring.

If Mike mapped your car with the F then that's what the car will run best on. The N75 is a wastegate control valve which acts on instructions from the ECU, the J and H effectively have a delayed reaction so keep the wastegate shut when the ECU wants it open and this is how more boost is achieved. If you want more boost just get the remap to tell the N75 to stay closed longer.

Just thinking out loud and playing. if the the N75 map is near the limit of the 'F' type, say 98% would the 'J' type cope better.

Also worth noting that the J fits in a reversed orientation comapred to the C, F and H versions.

Yep...that's right.

Des...I'll get it and give to Dave....at least you'll see if makes some kind of difference.

Just thinking out loud and playing. if the the N75 map is near the limit of the 'F' type, say 98% would the 'J' type cope better.

The N75 doesn't have a limit as such, it just acts on instructions from the ECU if the N75 is in good working order then there's no need to change it. The remap does all the work the N75F will work just as well with a GT28 as it does with a K03s. For example on James' Octavia at one point he was running over 30psi on the GT28RS and was using the standard N75F.

The N75 doesn't have a limit as such, it just acts on instructions from the ECU if the N75 is in good working order then there's no need to change it. The remap does all the work the N75F will work just as well with a GT28 as it does with a K03s. For example on James' Octavia at one point he was running over 30psi on the GT28RS and was using the standard N75F.

I can't see what all the hype is about then. :confused:

Unless they are referring stock maps only.

I can't see what all the hype is about then. :confused:

Unless they are referring stock maps only.

That's basically it, on 1.8T with stanard map then yes it gives a bit more boost for only

That's basically it, on 1.8T with stanard map then yes it gives a bit more boost for only

They can also be of benefit on a 'mild' map but if you have a custom map or something like Revo where you can adjust the boost map then they are totally unnecessary and can actually reduce power.

That's basically it, on 1.8T with stanard map then yes it gives a bit more boost for only

do they cause any problems with VAG-Com on a standard mapped car then?

I've heard of 1 or 2 cases where the H as caused limp mode but haven't heard of it happening with the J.