Make sure it's the inlet cam lobe that's at its highest point I use this guide and it's works perfectly lost count of how many sets of PD injectors I've fitted and adjusted now

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=306911

That's exactly what I did the other day when getting it to the highest point, but with the other cam lobe

Worked no bother at all, thanks for the advice!

Took about 50 pictures so will upload them later in a how to guide.

What benefits/differences have you noticed after setting them?

 

After re-setting the Injector Lash on my engine, it now starts spot on, runs smoother, more powerful and the MPG is nearly as good as before.

 

 

The report I wrote is below.

 

Referring to my Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI - engine number BNV 230500 - Which had a cylinder head refurbishment, guides, camshaft and gasket (3 holes & 3 ovals - however they cannot remember how many holes the old gasket had !) replacement and has not run anywhere near as good as what it used to with poor MPG.

 

 

I have had to run the engine in a retarded state with the torsion settings at -0.05, even at this setting it would start with a shudder, just as though the engine wanted to run in reverse, once started the power was very poor and would attempt to stall going up to our T junction. Along the road it felt like it was running on 2.5 cylinders and out of balance, then it would run a bit better. It's run OK but nowhere near as enjoyable to drive like it used to be and consuming about 10% more fuel on both short and long journeys.

 

So, after hating driving my car since the completed work and with an upturn in the weather, I decided to roll my sleeves up to try and get to the bottom of the problems myself.

 

I purchased a diesel compression testing kit, the results as follows.

 

All tests with a Cold engine.

 

Cyl 1 - 445

Cyl 2 - 445

Cyl 3 - 460

 

I made a jig to attach my DTI gauge to check each Injector tappet adjuster at it's lowest point, then undoing the nut and screwing in the adjuster until a firm stop, then backing it off 180' and torque'd the nut up, I then compared my settings to the original settings.

 

Cyl 1 - was backed off at 270'

Cyl 2 - was backed off at 210'

Cyl 3 - was backed off at 190'

 

This obviously looks where the fault lies and also suggests as though no protractor was used in it's original setting.

 

I then retested the compression

 

Cyl 1 - 450

Cyl 2 - 445

Cyl 3 - 450

 

I ran the engine with the torsion setting still retarded at -0.05, it started without hesitation with no shudder and ran a lot smoother and it felt more like it was running on 3 cylinders again.

 

I then reset the torsion value to 00.00 (00.00 is the official setting), then reset the ECU, where it still ran smooth but I felt it could be advanced a trifle more.

 

I then reset the torsion value to 00.06, went through the ECU reset procedure where it still ran smooth, I then left it set as is for a few days to see what the MPG figures looked like.

 

10 days later - The MPG was now back to it's original readings and certainly goes a lot better but not quite as good.

 

Although this has all been an annoying experience, it's worth noting that whoever assembled the cylinder head was not very methodical and their work should be checked at all times, I certainly hope this info is fed back to the assembler because on small engines the precise settings need to be adhered to, to gain every ounce of critical power.

 

.................

 

A 3rd party advised on the following.

 

The VAG literature also advises that the adjuster screw and the ball pin on the injector should be changed.

The procedure you describe with the dial gauge is exactly as recommended by VAG i.e. set the valve lever to the lowest point on the injector. Remove DTI and with the locking nut loose turn the setting screw (compressing the spring) until one feels a significant resistance (the unit is against the injector stop). Now turn the adjusting screw in the opposite direction 180° and tighten the lock nut to 30Nm.

Adjusting the injector settings should not affect the cylinder compressions. VAG recommend that the compression test is carried out with the oil temperature at 30° C or above. The compression readings should be between 25 – 31bar (365 – 450Psi) the permitted difference between cylinders is 5bar (72psi) 

 

DB.

What benefits/differences have you noticed after setting them?

 

Kev it allows, the engine to run that little bit smoother you can get the group 13 injectors setting with 0.5% of each other or ideally even closer, i also combine this with setting the torsion value to -0.6 - 1.0

this allows better spool and slightly better response when changing gear quickly (u can sacrifice a slight top end rpm performance) but unless your constantly in the 4k+ rpm you will see no ill effect

 

the last 3 sets i've done this, when either replace stock injectors for race injectors or replace the full units themselves (due to failure or worn camshafts or worn seals)

 

on my setup with the 2260 i've played about setting torsion values both ways i went as far as +3.0 it made it right laggy but reved like fuk then -3.0 awesome spool (added some amount of smoke) but lost the ability to really rev hard after 4k rpm

 

as the 2260 is all about 3000rpm - 5000 rpm i settled for the -0.6 value (which is near about stock) it one of those things you can fuk about ages messing with, but every time you have a map change or alteration done it just messes it all up and you have to go about setting it again

 

what i have found is if you monitor and log torsion value on a 4th gear log from 1500rpm as the turbo comes on boost and makes full torque power it will advance as much as 4.0deg, i changed the cambelt and waterpump for genuine new and this figure dropped 1.5deg (it was 20,000 miles old & none genuine) apon inspected the cambelt it had light cracking to the teeth & was obviously stretching under load!!! The way the car pulled afterwards it was smoother and seemed to rev faster.

 

So all those folk out there running big torque figures & bouncing off popcorn limiters/hardcuts, inspect your cambelt regularly and log the torsion values once in a while if you are seeing the figures into the 4.0-5.0deg when you car is making peak torque, check all is in spec and the cambelt tension is correct and in good condition if in doubt replace!

 

By no means is the above dangerous and i know folk will just not agree, but these were my finding from my own experience, if your doing a lot of mileage & running more power i'd be inclined to do a cambelt and pump change every 20,000-25,000 miles

 

I now await the onslaught of peeps who don't agree!!!!!

Can't say I don't agree. I've asked a few people what benefits can be had from playing with the torsion value and no one I knew said anything, they all said it's something that needs to be done on a dyno to see exactly what the changes do.

I'll be setting mine as close to zero as possible anyway.

Kev it allows, the engine to run that little bit smoother you can get the group 13 injectors setting with 0.5% of each other or ideally even closer, i also combine this with setting the torsion value to -0.6 - 1.0

this allows better spool and slightly better response when changing gear quickly (u can sacrifice a slight top end rpm performance) but unless your constantly in the 4k+ rpm you will see no ill effect

 

the last 3 sets i've done this, when either replace stock injectors for race injectors or replace the full units themselves (due to failure or worn camshafts or worn seals)

 

on my setup with the 2260 i've played about setting torsion values both ways i went as far as +3.0 it made it right laggy but reved like fuk then -3.0 awesome spool (added some amount of smoke) but lost the ability to really rev hard after 4k rpm

 

as the 2260 is all about 3000rpm - 5000 rpm i settled for the -0.6 value (which is near about stock) it one of those things you can fuk about ages messing with, but every time you have a map change or alteration done it just messes it all up and you have to go about setting it again

 

what i have found is if you monitor and log torsion value on a 4th gear log from 1500rpm as the turbo comes on boost and makes full torque power it will advance as much as 4.0deg, i changed the cambelt and waterpump for genuine new and this figure dropped 1.5deg (it was 20,000 miles old & none genuine) apon inspected the cambelt it had light cracking to the teeth & was obviously stretching under load!!! The way the car pulled afterwards it was smoother and seemed to rev faster.

 

So all those folk out there running big torque figures & bouncing off popcorn limiters/hardcuts, inspect your cambelt regularly and log the torsion values once in a while if you are seeing the figures into the 4.0-5.0deg when you car is making peak torque, check all is in spec and the cambelt tension is correct and in good condition if in doubt replace!

 

By no means is the above dangerous and i know folk will just not agree, but these were my finding from my own experience, if your doing a lot of mileage & running more power i'd be inclined to do a cambelt and pump change every 20,000-25,000 miles

 

I now await the onslaught of peeps who don't agree!!!!!

Ok cheers