Ok manifold off and cleaned, turbo is going to have to wait till next weekend, as its started to **** down :(

How much to rattle a set off for me

The pipework is the easy and cheap part.

Silicone bends and couplings add up the price, as does the boss needed to fit a map sensor.

I'd be happy with just the pipes could sort everything else my self would you use Ali.

No I'd use myself

So looking from the top the outlet hits right on the aircon pipe work, so i assume it is in the wrong position?

Yes very wrong.

Like I said in a other post.

Clock it till it's about 15mm away from the block.

But problem is clocking off the car/ to difficult and taking turbo and no car to a mechanic to clock :P

Mark it now then so you will know how much to clock it.

No I'd use myself

Does that mean your willing :lol:

Ok so update:

 

Ive removed the turbo, and i cant do it... i simply do not have anything in my tool box that can get that circlip off... so its going the mechanic on Monday.

 

Other related questions:

 

1. The exhaust outlet on the turbo is missing a bolt, its been snapped off (not by me) would you think its repairable? 

2. It looked like there where 2x turbo gaskets onto the block - normal? 

3. when removing the innlet manifold, all the bolts where previously rounded off.. anyone know the size of these or cheaper than Skoda replacements?

4. When fitting new gaskets should i use some kind of sealant, as there was loads on all the old ones?

Other related questions:

1. The exhaust outlet on the turbo is missing a bolt, its been snapped off (not by me) would you think its repairable?

- Easily repairable, get the garage to remove the snapped bit and replace the stud, even darkside sell them for 80p each. Hopefully abit of the stud is sticking out still?

2. It looked like there where 2x turbo gaskets onto the block - normal?

- Not normal for any I've replaced, but you can get multilayer metal gaskets. Clean the area up with some light stand paper or similar to get it all smooth and use one normal new gasket, will cost around £2 new.

3. when removing the innlet manifold, all the bolts where previously rounded off.. anyone know the size of these or cheaper than Skoda replacements?

- Never bought replacements for these but can't imagine them being a great deal new, might be worth giving them a ring to check the price.

4. When fitting new gaskets should i use some kind of sealant, as there was loads on all the old ones?

- No sealant needed for turbo gaskets, Vauxhall don't even have a gasket for the turbo to exhaust it's just face to face.

Thanks man very helpful.

 

1. Good i couldn't tell if it was a fix/ welded in bolt. Bolt has snapped around 2mm under level. Im sure machanic can weld on and get it out.

 

2. it could have been multi layered.

 

Thanks again.

1 - I'm sure it can be fixed,most things can. Get some pictures up.

2 - the exhaust gasket is made up of two thin pieces of metal stuck together.

3 - I'm sure there 5mm but someone will confirm that. Take them into a hard ware store and see what you can find or look online once you know the head size.

4 - no theres no need to use and other type of gasket other than the metal ones supplied.

Hope you get this sorted soon mate.

Edit - basically what hutchy said lol

2. not exhaust im on about, tis the turbo one onto the block. 

 

I need to sort all these replacement parts a.s.a.p, but struggle to phone my local  skoda due to my working times. Parts only open till 10am on Saturady, when i take my lad swimming ... is a ball ache!!

 

Just thought that the vnt rod seems very close to the end 1cm of threads left ... is this normal setup?

 

I was suffering symptoms somewhat like VNT blockage, but low down usually in 1st 2nd gear, seemed like boost leak (which i presumed it was) symptom was feeling like it blocked, pressure build up, then after you floor it, load of black smoke then back to full power.

 

 - Is this anything to do with over fuel/ VNT rod near the end.... bear in mind this turbo has been shoved on it the incorrect position, and pipe work bodged to reach ... its probable that the turbo has never been set-up properly ? 

Yep, could be why.

Do some checks once you've got it on and fitted, a few people have posted guides to adjusting the vnt now.

While the turbos off you might as well strip down the vnt side and clean it all out to make sure it's 100% free and smooth to rule it out.

Yep, could be why.

Do some checks once you've got it on and fitted, a few people have posted guides to adjusting the vnt now.

While the turbos off you might as well strip down the vnt side and clean it all out to make sure it's 100% free and smooth to rule it out.

yes this is a good guide http://www.hidden-power.co.uk/guides/vnt-turbocharger-setup/

 

But ive not looked into how to strip down the vnt and clean ... is it fiddly, able to break stuff?

Maybe 5 out of 10 for fiddley/difficulty.

On the exhaust side you should see the 10mm bolts all the way round the housing?

Remove then and split it. It's worth putting a mark on with tipex or something for when you put it back together it's 100% in the same place.

You will see a ring with small metal arms coming off it.

Remove the ring and clean it, use a small paint brush and part cleaner to rub all the exhaust soot that's built up off. Once it's all clean, put the ring back in place and line all the arms up so they sit inside it. Keep it in place and then put it back together lining up the one master arm (correct name? ) that's attached to the actuator.

To many pictures to post up, but Google "cleaning vnt vanes" and click images.

Hopefully you will see what I mean and it'll all make sence!

To many pictures to post up, but Google "cleaning vnt vanes" and click images.

Hopefully you will see what I mean and it'll all make sence!

Found this 

 

He mentions the borgwarner video, but i cant find it :(

They are all the same really.

They are all the same really.

ok can you tell me what this tool is called?  or suggest a alternative to get the dam circlip off? 

 

If im stripping it all, may as well have a go clocking .. sod the mechanic :p

Look like internal circlip pliers to me mate.

sent from my Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

Yeah, circlip pliers.

I've got snap-on ones so you can change all the attachments on the ends, I always need the biggest type and use the right angle type.

A small hammer and chisel with wd40 is usually needed to free it off first, the circlip will be seized solid in the housing.

I've done two KKK's now exactly the same as yours so not exactly an expert but they are a chew on. I had to put the turbo in the vice as well to hold it steady.

If you fully remove the circlip it's even more of a nightmare putting it back on, have some flat screwdrivers on hand ready

If you can get the clip compressed and held in place slowly knock the housing round into place.

Yeah, circlip pliers.

I've got snap-on ones so you can change all the attachments on the ends, I always need the biggest type and use the right angle type.

A small hammer and chisel with wd40 is usually needed to free it off first, the circlip will be seized solid in the housing.

I've done two KKK's now exactly the same as yours so not exactly an expert but they are a chew on. I had to put the turbo in the vice as well to hold it steady.

If you fully remove the circlip it's even more of a nightmare putting it back on, have some flat screwdrivers on hand ready

If you can get the clip compressed and held in place slowly knock the housing round into place.

Hmm ok no vice so maybe not :( but these are worth a try ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/300694678185?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

 

Also mate, is it right the exhaust side should be the same rotation on all these turbo? due to the alignment pin on the VNT's, so that being said does it sound right for the innet to be lined up above the oil return? Ive marked mine off around 15mm off the block and its basically right where the oil return is.

Yeah they are worth a try but might bend abit if they are flimsy.

I'm not 100% sure what you mean.

The insides will always line up, the oil feed and return are always 180° from each other.

You don't want to clock the exhaust side at all, so make sure it goes back in the same place you took it apart.

The boost side (usually shiny side) can be clocked and rotated basically as much as you want.