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Severe wobble at 25-30mph!

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Mechanic took my car in this evening. Stayed with him in his small workshop.

Did both shafts in less than 2 hours.

Wobble gone! :)

Near side shaft had been changed before. Offside was original.

He works for Audi during the week and has a side business where he does some of his own work on cars like ours in his own workshop.

Lives just across the road! Wish I had met him before I had my cam belts done. He can do them in less than an hour.

my "indy" mechanic is similar - except by day hes the head of service and parts dept in local skoda dealers :D

had 2new rear shocks, new drums shoes cylinders all done with a thermostst change and full service in 2 1/2 hrs with car back outside my house.

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  • Mechanic took my car in this evening. Stayed with him in his small workshop. Did both shafts in less than 2 hours.   Wobble gone!  Near side shaft had been changed before. Offside was original.

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:)

 

hmm started to hear a slight whirring noise when cornering last night! Can a wheel bearing fail very quickly like that (6 miles after shaft replacements)? First thing that comes to mind is that he knackered the wheel bearing

 

 

oh dear we have a trip planned for the weekend. I'll see how it goes in the next day or 2.  If it continues I'll get the mechanic back, luckily he lives just across the road.

If a bearing was getting towards its last legs pushing driveshafts in and out won't have helped. Also the newer joints will spread the load about properly so will increase the pressure on the hubs slightly (ie back to normal really) hard to say if it's something he actually did or is just an unfortunate consequence/coincidence. Like I say it could have been on its way out anyway. Funnily enough when I had a wheel bearing done the driveshaft inside joint went as well as my alignment. So one may effect the other, but just one of those things.

Getting the bearings out can be a timely job so is expensive that way, my mechanic reckons you can keep going for a good while once they've started going...but how long is a piece of string?

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I’ll order a new one just in case it does fail. As a spare. A hub nut also!

Just driven for 15-20 mins and felt the temperature, all was fine. Just the brakes had some warmth in them of course. Bearings cold.

Maybe just a different sound from the new CV joints. Time will tell on the trip to Wales this weekend.

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Might have been a good idea to get all done at the same time. Shafts wishbones and bearings. Bearings don't cost too much. Know for next time!

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wheel bearing kit ordered from amazon (Febi) and an extra hub nut just in case anything fails while out in Wales this weekend!

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Well you can see one of the inner cv bearings has a loose/broken part - no wonder it was wobbly!!

Also the other side which had no circlip has grease which has turned to liquidy light brown pulp.

Both needed attention afterall.

 


gaiter loose and grease turned to sloppy pulp


inner cv broken bearing

Edited by Brit24

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I've noticed quite a difference with these solid shafts compared to the original hollow shafts.

You can feel feedback when accelerating fast in first or second. Unwanted feedback of a vibration kind.

I guess the hollow ones absorb the vibrations much more efficiently.

What state is your dogbone mount in, the new shafts may be placing load on this now as you are free to drive more "confidently" now as the wobbles are gone

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What state is your dogbone mount in, the new shafts may be placing load on this now as you are free to drive more "confidently" now as the wobbles are gone

Not sure to be honest.

What's the best way of checking? Or is it easy and cheap just to replace?

I see there are a lot of bush replacements out there.

Edited by Brit24

On a manual there are as you say many options for bush replacements, but as yours is an auto, you may find some of the aftermarket bushes are just too harsh for the auto box and may transmit a lot of noise and harshness.

 

It could be worth checking the mk4 golf forums to see if there is a favoured bush for the auto box, as they are basically the same mechanicals under the skin.

 

To check them, just gently lever between the bracket and the alloy mount and see if there is a mass of movement there.

 

OE mount price is about £70 I think from dealers, but TPS can do them cheaper if your local branch will actually serve you as joe public

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On a manual there are as you say many options for bush replacements, but as yours is an auto, you may find some of the aftermarket bushes are just too harsh for the auto box and may transmit a lot of noise and harshness.

 

It could be worth checking the mk4 golf forums to see if there is a favoured bush for the auto box, as they are basically the same mechanicals under the skin.

 

To check them, just gently lever between the bracket and the alloy mount and see if there is a mass of movement there.

 

OE mount price is about £70 I think from dealers, but TPS can do them cheaper if your local branch will actually serve you as joe public

 

Thanks kentphil1. I will check them.

I assume after replacing wishbones and shafts it will have tightened up the front end and will show weaknesses in other areas.

Unfortunately, yes

As you may have found with your bearings indeed, how are you getting on with those?

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As you may have found with your bearings indeed, how are you getting on with those?

 

Bearings appear to be fine. Just done a round trip to Wales and no issues at all.

Whole front feels tighter due to the new wishbone bushings.

 

As Kent said it may be my engine mountings now. :(

 

Saw a Meyle dogbone for 29 quid on ebay. Have to look into that.

 

Edited by Brit24

Bearings appear to be fine. Just done a round trip to Wales and no issues at all.

Whole front feels tighter due to the new wishbone bushings.

 

As Kent said it may be my engine mountings now. :(

 

Saw a Meyle dogbone for 29 quid on ebay. Have to look into that.

When I was running mine I looked at getting one of those Meyle ones to fit polybushes in. Apparently the power flex diesel ones are a good option, a lot firmer but not too harsh. Could just try those in your existing dogbone. I wouldn't bother with the front bushing on the dogbone, probably vibration city, you can get poly inserts to go in there to assist your existing bush though which is probably the best option. Hit Google with 'polybush dogbone skoda' and a wealth of info will pop up from this forum.

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When I was running mine I looked at getting one of those Meyle ones to fit polybushes in. Apparently the power flex diesel ones are a good option, a lot firmer but not too harsh. Could just try those in your existing dogbone. I wouldn't bother with the front bushing on the dogbone, probably vibration city, you can get poly inserts to go in there to assist your existing bush though which is probably the best option. Hit Google with 'polybush dogbone skoda' and a wealth of info will pop up from this forum.

Wouldn't the power flex ones be harsher? i.e. cause more vibration for a daily ride?

Last thing I want really. The Meyle gives the same firmness as the original I assume.

 

I used a small bar between the box and rear mount this evening, it moved forward quite easily.

Yeah you'll get some vibration as they bed in (albeit of a different kind) you get the least with the diesel ones. But apparently what you gain in the mod pays off a bit of vibration for a few thousand miles. Yes the new Meyle would be oem type standard. I keep forgetting you're not in a vrs, still be a good improvement though. But if you want to keep it stock the Meyle is probably the best way, then you'll get a new front bone bush without having to dig your old one out. I think gen dogbones are about 55 a unit?

As you have a conventional auto that spends most of it's time at idle in a state of perpetual drive take up, vibration is going to be far more noticeable on an auto than a manual.

 

The Meyle or OEM are probably going to favourite for this reason alone, let alone any quality issues. As I said above, you could check out here http://forums.vwvortex.com/ to see if anyone has a good aftermarket option for the auto, as there are far more auto Golfs around than Octys, if not, keep it simple and stay standard.

 

Vibrations via an auto box are going to be far more unpleasant than even the worst manual, as you can't really fully disconnect the drive to stop the vibes like you can when you dip the clutch in a manual,

Change the wheel for the spare and see if the wobble goes. You might have heard a wheel weight get flung.

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Looking at engine mounts. Meyle do not have a good reputation.

Corteco appear to have very good reviews.

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Talking about rear trail arm bushings what is the difference between the hydro types and rubber metal bearing?

Which should I be using?

When you say trail arm bushings, are we talking rear subframe bushes or something different?.,

 

Bowders has a very good how to in the guides section for fitting Fabia solid bushes in place of the Octavia ones if you want to go OEM, or Superpro do a 2 piece replacement that is a little tighter in the handling department, but not quite as compliant on the road.

 

Whichever bush you choose, the how to is still valid to get to it in the first place.

 

If you mean rear bushes in the front wishbones, let me know and I'll give you some options,

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When you say trail arm bushings, are we talking rear subframe bushes or something different?.,

 

Bowders has a very good how to in the guides section for fitting Fabia solid bushes in place of the Octavia ones if you want to go OEM, or Superpro do a 2 piece replacement that is a little tighter in the handling department, but not quite as compliant on the road.

 

Whichever bush you choose, the how to is still valid to get to it in the first place.

 

If you mean rear bushes in the front wishbones, let me know and I'll give you some options,

 

Yes rearframe bushes. The 2 large bushes that support the rear frame. Was also tryng to find a cheapish device to remove them easily without drilling and sawing but hadn't had much luck.

 

After renewing the front bushes I realised how much of a difference it makes.

 

Thanks

Try checking out Sealey tools, they sell through outlets that have ebay shops that can be quite reasonable. get the tool number you need then put it in ebay search and see what you get.

 

I am off out for a while otherwise I would do it for you, but will have a look for you later tonight if you have not found it by then.

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