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Changing a Clutch Slave Cylinder - a Quick Guide


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So getting home from the garage (Fr Pads & Discs) just pulling to the driveway and I can't get first..hmm, engine off, select gear, start engine, move car into the drive. Pedal was fine so must so I deduced it'll be the slave. I'll grab one from work and throw it in.

 

Roll on 20hrs I've managed to drive her to my garage, (that was fun) and strip off the airbox and battery.

 

And find that the slave clyinder is held in by half a bolt, thast one bolt mostly unscrewed,

 

So quick fix would be bolt it back up, throw in another screw and wait for it to fail at a later date.

But that'd guarantee a side of the road, middle of nowhere breakdown

 

Very easy job, remove the airbox (one screw), battery (3 bolts) and tray (3bolts)

you can now see the cylinder on the top of the gearbox. The engine mount will need the

diagonal bar lossening to more it out of the way.

Unbolt the cylinder, manoeuvre the pipe out of the rubber grommet and bracket, and lift it up.

The slaves connector is just a flat blade screwdriver job, and a firm pull to separate the join.

If you have the new slave ready to go you'll not spill a drop of fluid.

 

Bleeding, I have a presure bleeder so used that, so can't comment on manual techniques

I did note that the reservoir di dneed to be near full to avoid air been blown through the pipe.

 

From a stiff wobbley rough pedal, to a smooth light prescise action.

I'm sure the car is driving smoother too.

 

 

 

 

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