Hi All,

 

Can anyone advise how the Consumption measuring block 015 in VCDS can be used to adjust the rear cam timing? I understand it should be 0.6l/h at tickover but mine is 2.5+

I know no-one has replied to this thread probably meaning no-one has any idea, but can someone check their PD170 measuring block for consumption and tell me if it drops to 0.6l/h ot so as soon as you drop the throttle.

Have you check the actual cam timing yet via the belt, if the timing has not been set up properly when the belt was changed / renewed then you are not going to be able to get you vehicle problem sorted.

This thread may be helpful

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/240186-all-pd170-tdi-vrs-owners-your-help-needed/page-2

Mine fluctuates between 0.4 and 0.6 but my torsion value is -3.4 so not correct.... Cambelt and water pump getting changed Thursday so hopefullythst sorts that part out!

Mine fluctuates between 0.4 and 0.6 but my torsion value is -3.4 so not correct.... Cambelt and water pump getting changed Thursday so hopefullythst sorts that part out!

Thanks Mike

Have you check the actual cam timing yet via the belt, if the timing has not been set up properly when the belt was changed / renewed then you are not going to be able to get you vehicle problem sorted.

 

Its in today being checked, so fingers crossed. I just wasnt sure if the rear cam value, i.e. conumprions, should fade or drop to a stone.

Front cam was .25 of a pin out rear cam .5 pin out. Is that much?

Front cam was .25 of a pin out rear cam .5 pin out. Is that much?

.25/.5 of a locking pin? If so I'd say thats a reasonable amount?

Yes of a locking pin im guessing .5of a pin is about 3 to 5 degrees depending on pitch

It is significant enough to cause a rough running engine.

 

What's it like now.  Please provide an update / recap of the work done so far so that I am able to make further suggestions.

Picking it up later, the garage are just going to go over it all again to double check. Aparrently it feels a bit flat but they havent taken it for a good road test yet. Once I get it I will report back.

It is significant enough to cause a rough running engine.

 

What's it like now.  Please provide an update / recap of the work done so far so that I am able to make further suggestions.

 

Right the car is back to driving OK again, no hiccups yet. But..... When I pull away from lights the car feels flat then its off and wheelspinning everywhere. The guy in the garage has checked and monitored a few bits and pieces and says his feeling is that everythign is working, the turbo is operating and the intake is getting ready to go but the fuelling isnt there. I need to drive it a bit to make sure this is the problem, but I will post back. I was thinking maybe the fuel pickup may be clogged but then at high revs I would feel the power dip and it would flag an error?

When was the fuel filter last changed. Also try moving the turbo actuator lever by hand to see if there are any sticky spots

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Aparrently its silky smooth, Its only 6 months old! The fuel filter was changed at engine rebuild I would hope, I have a spare in the garage, I will do this at the weekend for what it costs.

When you do try putting half an injector cleaner in the new filter and the rest in the tank.

When you do try putting half an injector cleaner in the new filter and the rest in the tank.

Any particular one? My cars off for new cambelt and waterpump tomorrow along with a fuel filter - I have some Millers ecomax stuff?

Any decent brand injector cleaner

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Any decent brand injector cleaner

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OK Radders will do shopping at lunchtime.

 

I plugged VCDs into the car this morning and the Torsion value is now -1.84 which is rather annoying and the consumption is 4.17 so the front is more out than it was! I was thinking everyone is banging on about using pins to do the timing, as dis the garage, but I guess you still need to fine tune it to get the torsion value as close to 0 as possible? I am used to fine tuning the timing on the single cam PD lumps can I do my front cam without using a pin if I use a feather touch?

OK Radders will do shopping at lunchtime.

 

I plugged VCDs into the car this morning and the Torsion value is now -1.84 which is rather annoying and the consumption is 4.17 so the front is more out than it was! I was thinking everyone is banging on about using pins to do the timing, as dis the garage, but I guess you still need to fine tune it to get the torsion value as close to 0 as possible? I am used to fine tuning the timing on the single cam PD lumps can I do my front cam without using a pin if I use a feather touch?

 

Keep this thread updated? Post cambelt my torsion value is the same  

Edited 17 September, 201510 yr by -mike-

Just to update, I fine tuned the Torsion back to -.35 tickover then when under load it goes to 0.0, rhich I figured it about as good as I will get. The fuel filter however was the wrong one... thanks Eurocarparts! Anyway I will fit the new one in the next day or so.

 

Th ecar definitley has a flas spot, when you throttle it like the boost builds in an exponential curve, its nothing... nothing... whoosh. Anyway might still be fuel filter the one in there is black and the fuel is a bit sooty at the bottom of the filter housing.

I have just reviewed the post and you say the actuator on the turbo is silky smooth - have you felt this yourself or is it a garage opinion?. Also is this car remapped?

 

As for the flat spot when was the last time you had the EGR valve off and looked at it and when was the last time the coolant temperature sensor was replaced or checked (measuring blocks with VCDS).

I have not felt it myself, but as the turbo is 6 months old, I guess it should be OK. I will have a feel when I do the filter. The car was remapped when I had the DPF erm upgraded, I had the map checked by a second company when I had problems way back then.

 

I have the EGR blanked so shuold this be a problem still? I have not replaced the coolant temperature All the temperatures on VCDS read OK but I am happy to do so regardless. Which one, where? I did the sensors on my old non PD engines but not sure were it is on this one. Is it as easy as the non PD? If so I will go get one at lunchtime. Im sure SEAT will have them as an on the shelf item. The leon FR is a PD170 right?

I'm just wondering if the Egr valve is clogged to an extent where it is restricting gas flow. With respect to the temp switch they can cause all sorts of weird and wonderful issues if they go pear shaped. It may be worth replacing.

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I'm just wondering if the Egr valve is clogged to an extent where it is restricting gas flow. With respect to the temp switch they can cause all sorts of weird and wonderful issues if they go pear shaped. It may be worth replacing.

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OK thanks Radders. I will look at both. Where is the temp sensor? The radiator or in the block like the older engines?