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Wet rear floor again....

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I'm thinking I might use the window seal, the P shape stuff (house Windows) around the carrier when it's removed and then seal completely with plumbers gold once fitted and tightly riveted.

This stuff, £4 for 4 meters.

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Wouldn't using that make the gap between the carrier and the door larger, meaning the rivets are not long enough? Thought about using riv-nuts?

 

I'd say plumbers gold was plenty, that stuff is like tar. others have recommended some Shell sealant stuff before which is like 20 quid a tube.

 

Let us know how you get on...i really need to get mine sorted before the ****ty weather starts in earnest.

 

 

There was a thread about a proper fix to the doors besides sealant, I never did get the conclusion of that and would be useful to follow that through

(part of the problem being it wasn't clearly documented with pics for the majority to have a clue what to do, I'd imagine)

 

Sounds like you are at least partway by actually taking out the rivets....might as well complete it properly if you have got that far with it ? Good luck anyway, and do pics !!

 

please elaborate...links? not seen any 'Proper Fix' other than whats on here.

 

 

I'll be taking my carriers off to replace the locks, so interested in this.

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You will see if you remove the carriers, it has a seal similar to this already fitted, obviously it needs somthing between the door and the carrier in the first place to stop water leaking in when they are new.

I think the smaller P shape seal will be a perfect cheap replacement and then plumbers gold over on top of that to make extra sure.

You will see if you remove the carriers, it has a seal similar to this already fitted, obviously it needs somthing between the door and the carrier in the first place to stop water leaking in when they are new.

I think the smaller P shape seal will be a perfect cheap replacement and then plumbers gold over on top of that to make extra sure.

Yeh, i've removed one before, then proceeded to scrape all remnants of that stuff off, i'd be wary of it going rank like the stuff fitted from new, but i suppose a coating of Plumbers gold should help prevent that.

  • Author

well its designed for ther job, water proof etc so should be ok, a perminant fix might not be possible, id imagine they have to be sealed every 5 years or so mainly due to the poor design of the door rather than a problem with the door seals.

  • Author

Going to get the P seal now.

Just picked up the 6.4mm rivets. - I looked into other methods such as rivet nuts etc but since they don't actually sit flush and leave a gap, it's sort of againstly the point really.

Shopping list.

- P seal x 4 meters

- 6.4mm rivets x 16 needed (got 18)

- Plumbers gold

Hopefully that will be all sorted for the weekend now :)

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I share Thisday's doubts about fitting anything other than sealant between carrier and door.  I don't know what your P-seal stuff looks like, but unless it's very thin and squishable like the factory foam, I think you'll end up distorting the sealing surface of the carrier edge. Where there is a rivet, it will get squished down to near nothing, in between rivets it'll cause the carrier panel to bow outwards?

  • Author

Well I've got the rivets, got a few extra so came to £8 for those.

Picked the seal up from tool station, was £6 for 15 meters. I double checked how much I expected to use and it works out around 2.1meters. It's £4 for 3.5 meters or £6 for 15 meters so thought I might as well get extra.

Plumbers gold was about £7 from tool station also.

image.jpg

As you can see it's just a water proof rubber/foam seal which is identical to the original seal, Im fairly confident it will be fine, it has a seal on from the factory which will be a few MM thick so removing that and fitting this should be fine.

It's self adhesive as well so will be perfect for the job IMO.

Edit: packaging says it seals 3mm gaps.

Noticed rain water lapping over the internal sill t'other day. When I investigated, it was running down inside the door seal rubber and then onto the door sill at the bottom, then into the car.

I wouldn't bother with the p shaped stuff, it's sponge, it'll wear on the edge as door carrier bounces about and you'll be back to leaky doors as quick as the originals wore out

Clear all the old foam out, seal it with plumbers mate or equivalent and forget about it

Well I've got the rivets, got a few extra so came to £8 for those.

Picked the seal up from tool station, was £6 for 15 meters. I double checked how much I expected to use and it works out around 2.1meters. It's £4 for 3.5 meters or £6 for 15 meters so thought I might as well get extra.

Plumbers gold was about £7 from tool station also.

image.jpg

As you can see it's just a water proof rubber/foam seal which is identical to the original seal, Im fairly confident it will be fine, it has a seal on from the factory which will be a few MM thick so removing that and fitting this should be fine.

It's self adhesive as well so will be perfect for the job IMO.

Edit: packaging says it seals 3mm gaps.

 

It might be a better seal but any seal (or sealant) can only do as good a job as the installation allows. In this case, liable to leak as the implementation allows water to sit above the seal in the recess between the carrier and door skin.

 

I would spray talc it and run with trim off to discover the source of the leaks, then plumbers-gold bomb it.... Or do the drill-holes-and-alu-tape-it method.

 

J.

 

J.

  • Author

Well it's done now anyway, pleased with it over all, I think the P shape seal will last a good while yet, it was applied with plumbers gold at the same time then sealed over again once fitted so should be good.

Will put some pictures up.

  • Author

So the usual, removed the trim, pulled off the door card.

Drilled the rivets, door handle cable and wiring for the door lock and removed the carrier.

image.jpg

image.jpg

The carrier removed

image.jpg

image.jpg

Part of the original seal, very similar to the P shape stuff I've fitted.

image.jpg

Applying the new seal

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

I then applied plumbers gold all over the seal, refitted the carrier making sure it's a tight fit with no gaps this time, then sealer all the way round as per the usual guide to be extra sure :D

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Nice.

Shoulda hurled that black plastic bracket with the three rivets as far as possible though. 

Photo of inside of carrier shows nicely how that bracket has been channelling water onto the carrier.  :devil:

  • Author

Yeah... I should have possibly said... It's gone!

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:thumbup::) 

  • Author

Might have to get the hose pipe out tomorrow and test it. It's been a right chew on overall....

I didn't use all the rivets, I just used my impact gun and 13mm bolts in places, worked perfectly to pull the carrier right up against the door. The rivits just hold it up against it but don't pull the carrier and squeeze it against the door.

Edit: I also drilled a new hole at the bottom of the carrier where it was leaking previously and put an extra bolt on so its better than before.

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