So would I. In my experience 99% of fuse (of all kinds) failures are as a result of them doing what they are designed to do, I.e. protecting the associated component from an overload. It is very unusual for fuses merely to fail in their own right.

Correct.

I went into the fuses because after fitting 1A LED bulbs above the rear seats in place of the 5A festoon bulbs caused the fuse to blow within 24 hours.

I got 2 LED festoon bulbs from Halfords for about £11 and was over the moon with their performance until they blew 2 fuses in a couple of days.

No CanBus warning problems on those lights and it seems strange to me that lights drawing one fifth of the power kept blowing the fuses after a long period of time.

Halfords gave me my money back with no problem and said that some cars do that.

It was when finding the blown fuse (in the dark) that I realised the manual was very confusing on fuse locations, I think everything else I have driven has had the fuse locations printed on the fuse box cover.

One reason Japanese cars are so popular ....apart from reliability ....it that they are made for RHD markets like Australia.

The indicators are on the CORRECT side for one

Mine has a label on the inside of the (removable) fuse box lid, which matches the layout of the fuses.

Mine has a label on the inside of the (removable) fuse box lid, which matches the layout of the fuses.

 

My 2015 Yeti only has manufacturing markings on.

So what number fuse is the front power socket?

So what number fuse is the front power socket?

30?

It most certainly does!!!!!!

It does get retained at one edge by the door seal, but it comes off with a bit of wiggling.

 

I have tried all sorts of ways, but mine is quite definitely always retained by the little tag. 

Correct.

I went into the fuses because after fitting 1A LED bulbs above the rear seats in place of the 5A festoon bulbs caused the fuse to blow within 24 hours.

I got 2 LED festoon bulbs from Halfords for about £11 and was over the moon with their performance until they blew 2 fuses in a couple of days.

No CanBus warning problems on those lights and it seems strange to me that lights drawing one fifth of the power kept blowing the fuses after a long period of time.

Halfords gave me my money back with no problem and said that some cars do that.

It was when finding the blown fuse (in the dark) that I realised the manual was very confusing on fuse locations, I think everything else I have driven has had the fuse locations printed on the fuse box cover.

 

Internal light bulbs aren't included in the bulb failure system.

I have tried all sorts of ways, but mine is quite definitely always retained by the little tag.

"We reserve the right to change specifications without notice" I seem to recall in the fine print......and I'm sure that doesn't help when you are using or quoting from the manual........at least for me.....it gives me a headache

It'd be interesting to know what you actually plugged in that blew the fuse in the first place......I've never had one blow either.

 

 

Been a bit busy recently with motorsport - so just to say it was a cheapo ceramic heater which someone gave me years ago.

 

It seemed to work well on the first day, then on the second day everything went very hot, feed cables etc and then it went phut.

 

Not the sort of thing I would normally use, just curious to see if it was effective to use in the winter to use while the engine warmed up. I find the engine warms up a lot faster if no heat is drawn via the "heater" in the first few miles, and this little fan assisted unit provided quiet a bit of heat blowing over me.

Anyway, now in the recycling.  

Wow!

No wonder it blew a fuse.

It'd take time but inevitable result.

Been a bit busy recently with motorsport - so just to say it was a cheapo ceramic heater which someone gave me years ago.

 

It seemed to work well on the first day, then on the second day everything went very hot, feed cables etc and then it went phut.

 

Not the sort of thing I would normally use, just curious to see if it was effective to use in the winter to use while the engine warmed up. I find the engine warms up a lot faster if no heat is drawn via the "heater" in the first few miles, and this little fan assisted unit provided quiet a bit of heat blowing over me.

Anyway, now in the recycling.  

 

Get the thermals out Jerry. It's easier in the long run!!

If I have to go out early on frosty mornings, I put a 2kw fan heater connected to one of the outside sockets, in the car about 10 mins before I go out. Car totally frost free and nice and warm ready to drive away.

My dream has always been a heated garage with the outlet directly under the sump.

Oh well, next life perhaps.

If I have to go out early on frosty mornings, I put a 2kw fan heater connected to one of the outside sockets, in the car about 10 mins before I go out. Car totally frost free and nice and warm ready to drive away.

 

It's a bit difficult doing that when you stuck in a forest, half way up a Welsh mountain whilst doing radio on the WRGB!

My dream has always been a heated garage with the outlet directly under the sump.

Oh well, next life perhaps.

Let me tell you where that can back fire... speaking from previous experience.

We have a warm dry integral garage, so it never gets down to outside temperatures.

So car starts easily in the morning. Excellent.

Car starts easily during the day, despite having to scrape ice of the windscreen.(warmish engine).

You have to leave the car outside overnight, visiting friends, or can't be bothered to put the car away.

Next morning the car won't start... as the battery is past it's best, and on the first cold start, it's when you first find out, as there are no indications that the battery was struggling days before.

So watch that.

Let me tell you where that can back fire... speaking from previous experience.

We have a warm dry integral garage, so it never gets down to outside temperatures.

So car starts easily in the morning. Excellent.

Car starts easily during the day, despite having to scrape ice of the windscreen.(warmish engine).

You have to leave the car outside overnight, visiting friends, or can't be bothered to put the car away.

Next morning the car won't start... as the battery is past it's best, and on the first cold start, it's when you first find out, as there are no indications that the battery was struggling days before.

So watch that.

I'm more into keeping the oil as warm as possible ....the anti wear additive 'packages' are activated by heat, from my understanding.

We could sure do with some rain .......if you can organise some we would certainly be grateful.