Are these 256mm brake callipers and will they fit the fabia? Thanks

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Edited 21 October, 201510 yr by AaronD95

No, won't fit without adaptors.

What are the adaptors? The 6mm ones? Can you buy them or do you make them yourself

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The 256mm rear brakes are a good upgrade, just not from a 4wd Quattro. Look out for Audi s3 or mk4 golf anniversary etc... They are a direct fit.

What are the adaptors? The 6mm ones? Can you buy them or do you make them yourself

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I've got a pair of adapters spare if you do get these calipers

I've got a pair of adapters spare if you do get these calipers

that would be feat great. Pm me. I'm only in Wrexham

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Does it really improve something? I mean...most of the force is distributed to the front end...IIRC, ~70%. Unless doing it for cosmetic reasons, are there any visible results after upgrading rear brake calipers ?  

My latest braking tests proved ~2200 Newtons on the front wheels and ~1200 Newtons on the rear ones. According the the weight distribution, which, in my case, it's 730kg on the front axle and 472kg on the rear one, rear brakes are already a little bit over 'powered'. If, for some reasons, after this upgrade your rear wheels will start locking (more often) due to the lack of weight on that axle, will affect your car's handling IMHO and more important, the safety level. If you want to play with the brake size, I'd say you must play a bit with the distributor as well (it is a double circuit braking system after all).

Edited 22 October, 201510 yr by Alexandru

Does it really improve something? I mean...most of the force is distributed to the front end...IIRC, ~70%. Unless doing it for cosmetic reasons, are there any visible results after upgrading rear brake calipers ?  

My latest braking tests proved ~2200 Newtons on the front wheels and ~1200 Newtons on the rear ones. According the the weight distribution, which, in my case, it's 730kg on the front axle and 472kg on the rear one, rear brakes are already a little bit over 'powered'. If, for some reasons, after this upgrade your rear wheels will start locking (more often) due to the lack of weight on that axle, will affect your car's handling IMHO and more important, the safety level. If you want to play with the brake size, I'd say you must play a bit with the distributor as well (it is a double circuit braking system after all).

Presuming the op has 312mm fronts fitted?

These then match perfectly,gives a much better braking balance than standard rears and 312mm fronts for sure.

This can be tested on a rolling road only and check out the figures.

They use the same size pads with slightly bigger discs. I think the main upgrade being the vented discs rather than the standard solid discs.

Other than street use, IMHO, a set of good discs with Yellowstuff pads would be the perfect match (and they lived happily ever after). Any other mods are just for the looks getting through the >=16 inches wheels. 

They use the same size pads with slightly bigger discs. I think the main upgrade being the vented discs rather than the standard solid discs.

So these would be a good upgrade if you are experiencing rear brake fade ?

This can be tested on a rolling road only and check out the figures.

 

What can be tested on a rolling road? Also, how have you conducted your 'braking tests'? I'm unsure how your calculated braking forces were generated, as the load transfer wont be that great as there is not much weight over the rear axle (which highlights your point about not needing massive brakes on the rear), just XXX amount of fuel mainly. The static axle loads are simple (as long as you know where the cog is for the car) but the dynamic axle loads are almost impossible to calculate by hand, which is why people spend many years building complex models to generate these (i built a basic, non assisted braking model in Simulink for my project a few years ago). A rolling road cannot show this as there is virtually no rolling resistance. 

 

Anyway, only worthwhile putting 256mm on rear if looks is important to the op. 

I've got 312mm front brakes and I'm running 17" spiders. It is partly for looks upgrading to 256mm rears. But also. Don't see the point in just doing the front and leaving the back standard

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What can be tested on a rolling road? Also, how have you conducted your 'braking tests'? I'm unsure how your calculated braking forces were generated, as the load transfer wont be that great as there is not much weight over the rear axle (which highlights your point about not needing massive brakes on the rear), just XXX amount of fuel mainly. The static axle loads are simple (as long as you know where the cog is for the car) but the dynamic axle loads are almost impossible to calculate by hand, which is why people spend many years building complex models to generate these (i built a basic, non assisted braking model in Simulink for my project a few years ago). A rolling road cannot show this as there is virtually no rolling resistance. 

 

Anyway, only worthwhile putting 256mm on rear if looks is important to the op. 

 

There is a special equipment which looks like a rolling road but instead of measuring the power of the car, it measures the braking efficiency of a car, including force (usually measured in N), balance ( left vs right, front vs rear) and it also has a scale to calculate the weight of the car. The computer is doing the maths and is printing the results. They person in the car which is testing the braking system is using a pedometer which is placed between the brake pedal and the floor, to get the force requried by the driver to make the car stop/slow down. The system itself is simulating the rolling resistance. By far, it's the most accurate way to know the condition of your car's brakes.

 

Later edit: You might find one of these rolling roads in MOT centres or car repair shops. As we all know, no car testing should be done on public roads (or maybe some of us have a private testing track and are willing to try it on so). Anyhow, the best way to do it is to get the car on one of these, compare the figures and then you or your mechanic will know what to do next. It isn't really rocket science, but I know you want your car to stay put when braking hard when in straight line or even when cornering.

Edited 22 October, 201510 yr by Alexandru

So these would be a good upgrade if you are experiencing rear brake fade ?

 

Yep, they would be ideal for that, giving overall better brake performance.

They use the same size pads with slightly bigger discs. I think the main upgrade being the vented discs rather than the standard solid discs.

  

Bigger pistons too iirc.

This can be tested on a rolling road only and check out the figures.

Why can it only be proved on a rolling road?

I've had standard rears with 312mm on the front,brake balance was no where near as good as when I went up to the 256mm rear set up.

I can feel the improvement in braking when driving the car,no need for a rolling road at all

 

That is all...

Why can it only be proved on a rolling road?

 

When tuning a car to increase it's power, you put it in a rolling road to make sure the new maps are working fine. You do the same when you're upgrading the brakes. Have in mind there is a proportion valve or brake pressure regulator, which has been designed to work with a specific setup. Having too much brake force on one of the axles it might not be so good. Also, some cars have traction control and that's using the car's brakes. It has a few presets according the the standard car's dynamics. Changing the way your car is braking might throw a few errors. This is just a minor example I can think of at this hour (it's almost 2am). Do it with the help of a pro and then you will notice an improvement. Other than that, it might be just a placebo effect. 

When tuning a car to increase it's power, you put it in a rolling road to make sure the new maps are working fine. You do the same when you're upgrading the brakes. Have in mind there is a proportion valve or brake pressure regulator, which has been designed to work with a specific setup. Having too much brake force on one of the axles it might not be so good. Also, some cars have traction control and that's using the car's brakes. It has a few presets according the the standard car's dynamics. Changing the way your car is braking might throw a few errors. This is just a minor example I can think of at this hour (it's almost 2am). Do it with the help of a pro and then you will notice an improvement. Other than that, it might be just a placebo effect.

Lol your way over thinking this.

I've got 6 pot Tarox calipers on the front,256mm vented rears,so by your reckoning my car should be dangerous to drive with the brake forces so different from standard as I've not altered the regulater etc?

Load of rubbish I'm afraid!

Oh yeah and the placebo effect from my Tarox 6 pots is awesome........

 

That is all...

Any one looking for a brake conversion done just for looks here you have it!!!

Car hasn't even moved out of his garage since he fitted them..........

Tart,that is all.........

Any one looking for a brake conversion done just for looks here you have it!!!

Car hasn't even moved out of his garage since he fitted them..........

Tart,that is all.........

 

Actually, you are wrong, I moved it out the other evening to sweep some leaves out that had blown in, then put it away again!!

 

You know it gets used Bev, ok it don't get used daily and is a very spoilt thing but I love it.

 

Plus the rear brakes now are in proportion with the fronts.

How much was that upgrade, it does look rather nice!

Now I've got the spacers. What rear discs do I run. Do they have to be Quattro ones or are all 256mm vented discs the same

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How much was that upgrade, it does look rather nice!

 

If you have to ask....

 

I did find the ECS tuning upgrades in the UK a few years back. Venom Motorsport offer them. £600 + £600 for both "ends" excluding calipers. You'd need "312" or "256" calipers in addition to the kits.

 

IMO if you really need this stuff, then cost/price won't be an issue as you'll be breaking many other bits of the car regularly.

 

J.