I installed my Parrot CK-3100 last week. All I can say is that it was a right royal pain in the **** but worth it.

I thought i'd share my experience with everyone while it's fresh in my mind and it might be of help to others.

Feel free to comment or rate the thread.

The kit performs well but here's the bad news. I remember Bengie pointed out that his Nokia kit had better sound quality than his Parrot CK-3100. I have to admit sadly that that also applies to my previous Sony Ericsson HCB-300 which had excellent sound quality. IMO the sound is a bit more tinny than the Sony but I think the additional functionality of the Parrot makes up for it.

(This guide should apply to any hands free kit with a line output).

NOTE:

Unfortunately kits that don't have a line output and use ISO connectors to link to the car speakers are not really suitable for the Octavia 2 as you would need mutiple adapters to break into the radio wiring loom via the Quadlok connector and there simply isn't sufficient space behind the head unit to accomodate all of this. Some kits including the Parrot provide both systems. If your kit doesn't have a line-out you can always stick with the dedicated speaker (if provided) but I don't rate them TBH.

Octavia II Hands Free Phone Installation Guide

Don't be put off by the length of this post. I've gone into detail to help others avoid the pitfalls and problems.

1. Parts required

- Parrot kit (Obviously)

- Skoda Part 3B7035447B (12 Pin Connector housing for Stream/Audience radio)

- Skoda Part 000979003A (Connector inserts for housing c/w cable)

- Cable connectors (Maplin crimped Butt Splices or soldered with heat shrink)

- 1 Pk Lucar spade connectors (Maplin Part no. HF11M)

- 1 Pk Ring terminals (MaplinPart No. JH62S)

- Cable ties

- Crimping tool for the above (Maplin)

- Multimeter or 12v test lamp (Maplin)

- Torx screwdriver bits (will fit any electric screwdriver and you only need 2 sizes but they are handy to have for the Octy so I bought a set (Maplin Part No. GU60Q)

- 1 m of 0.5mm2 standed PVC cable (not yellow)

The parts should cost about £30 excluding the Parrot kit. You can do it without the above but why risk destroying your head unit or starting an electrical fire for the sake of a few quid and your time. Sounds like a lot of money but consider the £20 or so worth of tools as an investment but you probably have them already

2. Turn off ignition and remove key

3. Remove head unit

This has been described on Briskoda before but in the interests of completeness here goes:

- Open the ashtray

- Grasp the underside of the trim covering the ventilation controls and radio and

pull it outwards to remove it

(it needs a good tug but be gentle and careful not to break it. I found the top of the facia hard to pull out and had to use a wide blade screwdriver with a bit of card behind to prise it out whilst protecting the dash)

- Pull out the four blanking covers on the front of the radio (by inserting a narrow blade screwdriver in the notch at the side of each and prising them out).

- Remove the 4 Torx screws (insert a piece of card below each while loosening them and use pliers to lift them out to prevent them falling into the head unit) (as they are difficult to get back out without opening the head unit up.)

- Withdraw the radio slowly and once you can reach behind it, carefully disconnect the aerial by pushing the tab at the bottom and sliding it away from the head unit. It breaks easily so be careful.

- The main radio connector is the Quadlok type. Push the tab at the bottom and pull up the lever to unlock it before pulling it out.

4. Connection to the Radio

- Familiarise yourself with the wiring diagram on the top of the radio. If you have the Stream with 6 disc external cd autochanger you will see a 12pin plug identical to the one you bought located in the head unit quadlok plug . You won't have one of these if you have the audience head unit.

-There is an identical space beside the autochanger plug position and this is where you connect the hands free line-in.

-Insert 2 of the Skoda connector inserts into the 2 receptacles on the Skoda connector housing corresponding to the + and - TEL line-in inputs on the head unit, then push the cable retainer into the housing and insert the whole thing into the Quadlock. Check the connections very carefully before proceeding.

(The cables on the connector inserts are all yellow so you may wish to put a black stripe on the -ve cable using a permenent marker to make it easier to identify when you go to connect to the hands free kit control unit)

- Check the diagram for the radio again and identify the Tel mute pin (It is adjacent to the can-bus connections on the quadlock plug. There is no cable in this position currently.

- Strip 10mm off one end of a 500mm length of 0.5mm2 PVC stranded cable (not yellow) and leave this ready for insertion in the TEL MUTE connection on the radio.

- Cable tie the 2 line-in wires to the loom and pass the 3 cables to below the glovebox (you will need to pull back the foam cover below the glovebox to get access to this area.)

- Re-attach the Quadlok connector to the radio and once in place double over the stripped copper strands on the 0.5mm2 cable and push as far as possible into the TEL MUTE pin position. A cable tie can then be applied to the loom to keep the mute cable in place. (Take care and do not insert the cable before the quadlok is locked in place as the exposed copper strands may short out with the other pins)

This connection method may appear a bit unconventional but hands free kit installers throughout the UK are using this means of connection to the radio mute connector. The correct pin and cable may be available from Skoda but I couldn’t identify it.

-Re-attach the aerial lead carefully and then slide the head unit back into the aperture in the dash. Don't put the screws back in until you are sure the hands free kit actually works.

5. The Parrot Control Box

I had originally planned to hide this behind the glovebox but there just wasn’t enough space with all the spare cabling I had tied together and hidden up there. Instead I ended up pushing the controller up behind the side panel of the centre console in the passenger’s footwell.

6. The Parrot display Unit

I wracked my brains over the positioning of this. If mounted it on the supplied stand on top of the dash it looked awful IMO and wasn’t in easy reach when driving. Eventually I opted for mounting it flat on the lid of the ashtray. I located it to the right side of the lid so I could still see the display in any gear and routed the cable over the back of the lid to the control unit where plugged it in. Doubled sided adhesive Pritt foam did the trick to keep the unit in place. I intend to install a charging cable where the ashtray insert was so I can charge my phone in there when i’m driving.

7. The Microphone

95% of car kit installers will position the mic at the top of the A Pillar pointed towards the driver with the argument that it is closer to the driver’s mouth than if it was mounted elsewhere. Well maybe so but in this position it also picks up every scrap of wind noise around the door and window seals and it’s also as close as possible to the car door speakers leading to feedback problems when in operation.

I put mine in the centre. I used the mic holder with the self adhesive strip and stuck it to the plastic bit running from the headlining to the back of the rear view mirror. I then angled the mic appropriately. Then I pushed the cabling carefully behind the headlining. I pulled back the A pillar cover on the passenger side to route the cable down behind it and removed the panel at the side of the dash on the passenger side (accessible when the door is open) to get the cable through to behind the glovebox and finally to the control unit. Then just plugged it into the control unit.

The only thing that annoys me is that the A pillar cover isn’t as tight a fit at the top any more. The cables don’t foul it but it still sits out a couple of mm. Most people wouldn’t notice it but I do. No big deal really and unavoidable regardless of which kit you go for and where you locate the microphone (except on the dash of course).

8. The Wiring

Connect the brown and green Parrot line-out cables to the Head Unit line-in cables you previously installed using the butt splices or similar connectors and crimps. The Parrot cables are very fine so it’s best to strip about 15mm of cable and double it over a couple of times to make sure the connector gets a good bite on the bare cable. Be sure to observe polarity. Then do the same with the mute cable. Then plug the wiring loom into the control box.

I picked up the power directly from the fuse box as there is no switched live at the back of the head unit and the ISO connector that comes with the kit to enable you to tap into the radio’s power cable isn’t compatible with the Quadlock connector that Skoda have used. You can access the fuse box by pulling off the cover on the side of the dash at the driver’s side (with the driver’s door open). I passed the power cable between the two footwells (behind the centre console) and pushed it up above the foam cover under the dash at the driver’s side and out through one of the spaces beside the fuse box.

I put the 2 in-line fuse holders here and connected them up to unused connections on the fuse box. There is an unused phone kit switched live in there and if you use the meter or test lamp you will find an unused permanent 12v connection too. To make the terminations I used a pair of wire snips to trim down a lucar connector blade so that it would fit the space designed for a fuse terminal. You also need to bend over the terminal at 90 degrees to ensure the fuse box cover goes back on ok. Ideally the earth connection should be close to the kit but I used a crimped eyelet, and put it behind one of the dash retaining screws above the fuse box.

Finally ensure all connections are secure and in place then turn on the ignition.

Go through the radio menu and turn on the hands free telephone option. (This enables the mute input and when the Head unit gets the mute signal from the hands free kit it switches the audio over to the hands free line-in)

The Parrot display and logo should be visible. If not check your power connections. If you turn the kn-ob the voice should announce your menu selection through the radio and PHONE should be displayed on the radio. If that doesn’t happen then there’s a problem with the mute connection. Carefully pull out the radio and make sure the mute cable is pushed fully home into the quadlock connector and secured with a cable tie.

If PHONE is displayed but the voice announcements are barely audible then the line-in/out connections need checked.

Next pair your phone by getting your phone to look for bluetooth devices and put the 1234 passcode in when prompted. Most phones then connect and take a couple of minutes to automatically synchronise your contacts.

Then make a call to ensure all is working. Finally tie up and hide all your cables etc behind the glove box (Don’t worry about volume levels etc apart from if you suspect your line-in/out connections are faulty as above).

There are various volume settings. The Parrot volume settings range 1 to 5. You will have to adjust them to find your optimum settings but I found the following best.

Mic Vol – 3

Telephone/Voice announcement Vol – 2 (any higher and you get distortion)

Ring Vol – As required

I also set the PHVOL (phone volume) in my radio audio menu to 24. It sounds high given that the maximum volume setting for the radio is 30 but with the low telephone/Voice volume above, you need it. To avoid speaker damage, set PHVOL whilst listening to something quiet or when your autochanger is changing disks. You’ll know what I mean when you get to that stage.

Good Luck

Nice one Johnny, glad you've had some success.

Any photo's?

Any photo's?

afraid not.Most of it was done in the dark. don't ask. Will take some photos of the finished installation though and post them.

Photos at last

Thanks very much for this guide. It gave me the courage I needed to do this job. It is always a bit worrying when tugging on bits of plastic & hoping that they are not going to break into pieces but your guide is very clear & also gives handy hints re. not losing screws in the radio etc.

It is all working fine apart from the voice announcements not working correctly (but these are so annoying that I had already decided to turn them off.)

Thanks again a very clear guide top marks!!

No bother mate.

There is a delay in the HU 'switching in' the audio from the hands free kit so the voice feedback is cut-off at the start. I think it's down to the HU TBH. I turned it off too.

I have an i-mate jam and a FSE-9 wired car kit installed. I took out my bluetooth Nokia CK-7W as the echo made it un-useable.

I took out the front internal light box and there is a grill in it. (two screws underneath the clear plastic bulb cover) On my car there is nothing behind the grill so I put the mic in there, there are some clips for something but they held the mic perfect even though it is round. It works a treat and is invisible to the eye....

On my car there is nothing behind the grill so I put the mic in there' date=' there are some clips for something but they held the mic perfect even though it is round. It works a treat and is invisible to the eye....[/quote']

Yeah i tried that but got a little bit of interferrence from somewhere and the performance suffered a bit too. Looks neat though

If you want an easier way to install any car kit you can choose the mute lead you need from the link below. I have fitted many leads to different vehicles and can vouch for the quality. They are

Just getting a few things figured out before I start.

I got these two parts (attached picture I hope)

Skoda Part 3B7035447B (12 Pin Connector housing for Stream/Audience radio)

Skoda Part 000979003A (Connector inserts for housing c/w cable)

I just wonder should there not be more then one wire for 000979003A (Connector inserts for housing c/w cable).

Or is it just the case that I will only need to connect two wires into this housing

(+ and - TEL line-in inputs ), in which case I can just cut the wire I got in half and use the ends to make two leads...

Cheers

I used the top adaptor cable shown here, http://www.parrot.biz/support/pdf/Pin%20out%20Skoda.pdf

Its available from a place called the Fone Factory in Ballymount Dublin. It cost about 22 Euro, and required very little modification to work.

Will have to go and have a look see... awesome unit....

Just getting a few things figured out before I start.

I got these two parts (attached picture I hope)

Skoda Part 3B7035447B (12 Pin Connector housing for Stream/Audience radio)

Skoda Part 000979003A (Connector inserts for housing c/w cable)

I just wonder should there not be more then one wire for 000979003A (Connector inserts for housing c/w cable).

Or is it just the case that I will only need to connect two wires into this housing

(+ and - TEL line-in inputs )' date=' in which case I can just cut the wire I got in half and use the ends to make two leads...

Cheers[/quote']

Exactomondo my friend

Super, Thanks Johnny

Johnny just read your installation guide which is excellant. Is there any chance that you can post a pic of the fuse box with the lucar blade in position, and also showing where you earthed it.

Many thanks

Archer

No and yes TBH. My crimpers were crap so i took off the lucar connectors and just wedged the cable ends straight in temporarily although it's a pretty good fit. I plan to redo the connections this week and take the opportunity to install my mp3 player and DAB gear too (i bought new crimpers) if i can although the motor is goin into the bodyshop for a partial respray (don't ask) so it may be after that. photos attached anyway. Hope it helps.

Great help many thanks:thumbup:

With the adaptor harness I got you only neet to take an Ign feed ie the top one in Johnny's pic. I also put another in-line fuse imediately after the connection point (only costs a couple of euro's).

With the adaptor harness I got you only neet to take an Ign feed ie the top one in Johnny's pic. I also put another in-line fuse imediately after the connection point (only costs a couple of euro's).

forgot to add. mine has in-line fuses too. immediately behind the fuse box.

forgot to add. mine has in-line fuses too. immediately behind the fuse box.

I forgot you did that, I just thought I'd point it out

All done now and working, i had already decided to put an inline fuse in on the live. Only took a couple of hours, a lot easier that i thought it would be.

Though I'd add some of pictures I took during install. Might be useful to someone.

The installation guide is spot on.

How did you manage to get the cable for the GPS mouse to the inside of the car?

I don't think that'll be the final position for the GPS antenna. Maybe it'll work under the bonnet. Havn't tried it yet though.

Basically there is space for the wire to pass down inside of the wing to where the hinges of the door are (no drilling required). From the area where the hinges are there is a large rubber gromet just to the right of the fuses and below the top hinge. I put a hole in this rubber gromet and passed the wire through it.

If you need me to take a few close up pictures I will.