The 1.2Tsi has a turbocharger, are there any special techniques to changing oil & filter to ensure there is enough oil in the turbo bearings on start-up?

Or am I worrying unnecessarily?

No & Yes.

The only thing I always do is fill the oil filter and let it stand, top it up and then screw it on.

Don't expect the 'official' servicing to be done that way though

Then min revs till oil pressure light goes out

Heat activates oil anti-wear properties so that's why you warm an engine before sweaty exercise

The only thing I always do is fill the oil filter and let it stand, top it up and then screw it on.

Don't expect the 'official' servicing to be done that way though

Then min revs till oil pressure light goes out

Heat activates oil anti-wear properties so that's why you warm an engine before sweaty exercise

bit difficult on the 1.2 cos you then have to turn it over the screw it on.

Yeah

They've been spin-ons in the past (non German)

There is some useful info below in SSP 485 - Audi 1.2l TFSI Engine - concerning the oil filter.

'As with the 1.4l TFSI engine, a filter module with oil filter cartridge is employed in the 1.2l TFSI engine.

The oil filter cartridge is accessible from above to allow easy servicing. To ensure that no oil runs down the engine when replacing the oil filter, a return channel in the timing case cover opens when the filter cartridge is released. This allows the oil to flow directly into the oil pan.

This channel is sealed by a spring-loaded seal when fastened. The valves inside the filter cartridge are sealed in such a way that no oil can escape after the cartridge has been removed.

Notes on filter changing:

• First unscrew the oil filter cartridge approx. 2 – 3 turns.

• Allow the contents of the filter to drain off (wait approx. 2 – 3 minutes).

• As a safety precaution, place a cleaning cloth below the filter module.'

Edited 7 December, 201510 yr by DGW

To ensure that no oil runs down the engine when replacing the oil filter, a return channel in the timing case cover opens when the filter cartridge is released.

......... place a cleaning cloth below the filter module.'

Sounds like they're not 100% confident it works though!

Jim

The alternator is just below the oil filter so it is good advice. :(

Edited 7 December, 201510 yr by DGW

Good advice however when I replaced mine I just screwed it off and no oil leaked. I will do it better next time however

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

Thanks for above advice, done the job. A few findings:- I jacked it on the offside sill to get better access to sump drain bolt and found more oil came out than when it was on the flat.

A bit concerning was that the annular neoprene ring from the top (bottom?) of the existing genuine filter had become detached ( possibly as I unscrewed it ) and lay in the recess after the old filter had been removed. Fortunately I spotted it before trying to fit the new filter. Maybe others ought to check that the ring has not been left behind before fitting the new one.

Has anyone else found this on a Yeti 1.2 Tsi or any other VAG cars with a similar engine.

Photos attached.

Thanks for above advice, done the job. A few findings:- I jacked it on the offside sill to get better access to sump drain bolt and found more oil came out than when it was on the flat

..........

That's why I preferred to do my own oil change.

I used to jack it in such a way that the drain hole was lower than the rest of the sump.

Dealer service won't bother doing that.

That's why I preferred to do my own oil change.

I used to jack it in such a way that the drain hole was lower than the rest of the sump.

Dealer service won't bother doing that.

It's not uncommon for dealers (of any brand) to extract the old oil via the dipstick tube and not remove the sump plug at all.

It's a method that fills me with dread, because any sludge or metal particles in the sump will never drain out.

The oil filter cartridge is accessible from above to allow easy servicing. To ensure that no oil runs down the engine when replacing the oil filter, a return channel in the timing case cover opens when the filter cartridge is released. This allows the oil to flow directly into the oil pan.

This channel is sealed by a spring-loaded seal when fastened. The valves inside the filter cartridge are sealed in such a way that no oil can escape after the cartridge has been removed.

 

 

The above is for the 1.2/1.4 EA111 engine (cam chain) . You also have to ensure you don't overtighten the oil filter when re-fitting

 

The later 1.2/1.4 EA211 (cam belt) is totally different - oil filter at the bottom of the engine