MOT fail on N/S lower suspension bush and advisory on O/S bush as well.

 

MOT tester advised to replace the arm rather than to remove the bush and to replace only the bush.

The car has been clattering on acceleration for the past 3-4 months so this is why, the MOT tester said the bush does not exist, it is gone. So the hole in the arm into which the bush fits may be damaged?

 

Looked at the parts diagram and the suspension arm is 1J0417151C.

(£70 for genuine part)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-FRONT-SUSPENSION-ARM-1J0407151C-/380999674292

 

Makes me wonder if it a good idea to replace the lower ball joint as well as they have not been done.

Guessing that they won't be too far behind as well.  1J0407365/6H.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-BEETLE-LEFT-FRONT-SUSPENSION-BALL-JOINT-1J0407365H-NEW-GENUINE-VW-PART-/141609997887?hash=item20f89d163f:g:U~EAAOSw34FVCttE

Also required is the plate into which the bolts securing the arm to the ball joint, 1J0407175B, this should come with the ball joint.

 

There must be a kit for doing the two together?

 

Not sure if I can do this myself, read that the ball joint to arm bolts need WD40 or similar as they are exposed to the elements.

 

I have axle stands but need a ball joint splitter.

 

Any advice or comments?

 

Arm and ball joint or just the arm?

Edited 15 December, 201510 yr by jackg

Stick a pair of arms on it, check ball joints, if they need replacing do them.

I wouldn't trust anyone who said that "ball joint bolts need Water Dispersant 40 to release them", because WD40 is NOT a dismantling lubricant.

I wouldn't trust anyone who said that "ball joint bolts need Water Dispersant 40 to release them", because WD40 is NOT a dismantling lubricant.

 

On the tin it says: 

 

• Loosens rusted parts

• Frees sticky mechanisms

I replaced both of mine with these 2 years ago and still going strong. £39.99 for the pair with ball joints attached.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-MK1-99-04-FRONT-2-LOWER-SUSPENSION-WISHBONE-CONTROL-ARMS-ARM-/161440065443?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AOctavia&hash=item259693e7a3:g:gOIAAMXQNo5TYjTK

Edited 15 December, 201510 yr by Guest

Thanks for the advice.

 

How hard is it to get a spanner onto the ball joint retaining nut on the hub?

 

The Haynes manual advises to undo the bolts securing the drive shaft to the inner (engine) flange. Undo the lower arm then slide the hub away from the driveshaft.

 

Just wondering if the bolt can be accessed without doing this?

Edited 15 December, 201510 yr by jackg

It's easy enough. A lot easier if you have an airgun to undo it though.

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On the tin it says: 

 

• Loosens rusted parts

• Frees sticky mechanisms

If you've believed 10 impossible things this morning, why not finish off with breakfast at Millyways, the restaurant at the end of the Universe?

Mate

Did the wishbone arms and the dogbone today.

I did it on the drive, put the car on axle stands and changed the dogbone, 10 minute job to change it. Taking my time

Then did each wishbone arm. Only issue I found was that once the nut was undone on the ball joint and I'd freed it with a tap from a hammer it just turned and turned. Tried mole grips but it just turned, even went and bought some new ones to no avail, so I chopped it off with a grinder   not much space to work with but it can be done. Really took my time with the 1st ball joint, just went for it on the 2nd.

Had a look at my ARB bushes whilst I was there and they look in good shape so I left them.

Pretty pleased with myself as the clunk on pulling away has gone and the car feels more stable.

The old dogbone could almost be turned 90 degrees by hand!

One of the bushes on the wishbone arm was ripped pretty much all the way across.

I will post up some happy snaps tommorrow after work.

I replaced both of mine with these 2 years ago and still going strong. £39.99 for the pair with ball joints attached.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-MK1-99-04-FRONT-2-LOWER-SUSPENSION-WISHBONE-CONTROL-ARMS-ARM-/161440065443?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AOctavia&hash=item259693e7a3:g:gOIAAMXQNo5TYjTK

 

Those are the ones I bought too

As promised:

Edited 17 December, 201510 yr by munster

Mine was advised on that on last mot soon as I took the arm off it fell out. 28 pound for a new one

 

Then did each wishbone arm. Only issue I found was that once the nut was undone on the ball joint and I'd freed it with a tap from a hammer it just turned and turned. Tried mole grips but it just turned, even went and bought some new ones to no avail, so I chopped it off with a grinder   not much space to work with but it can be done. Really took my time with the 1st ball joint, just went for it on the 2nd.

 

i did the same thing with my ball joint! what u described there was my job to a t!   ive read somewhere sticking a 2p ontop of the nut as you loosen it will push it down, also maybe leaving the wishbone bolted to the arm .

 

Thank folks, very useful info.

Forgot to say that prior to doing the job the steering wheel was off centre, so thinking it had been taken off and put back on off centre I adjusted it so it was straight.

Once I had done the job it became apparent that the steering wheel hadn't been moved until I did it and I had to put it back to the original position.

I can only put it down to how badly worn the bushes were!