I've asked Steve to disconnect the vacuum pipe from the actuator, connect the vacuum tester and apply full vacuum so the vanes are closed. Then go out and log group 11 doing a 3rd gear WOT run to 2700ish rpm. With the vanes fully closed the thing should boost. If it does then the white one has a vacuum issue. If it doesn't then the turbo's at fault. If the later then I wouldn't swap that over lol.

Does seem OTT to buy a new car when simple diagnostics will fix the white one.

Black one does look nice though. Just needs a rear wiper fitting

10 minute diagnosis it really doesn't get any simpler than that. Can't believe this audi tech couldn't do that lol..

10 minute diagnosis it really doesn't get any simpler than that. Can't believe this audi tech couldn't do that lol..

trust m8 we own a m.o.t centre and have been through it for months ur more than welcome to have a go and we'll see how good you are!

Take it to unit 18 Steve they'll find the problem.

Take it to unit 18 Steve they'll find the problem.

I'm going to try what faboka have said for me to do first then take it from there tbh I got big plans for the black 1 as its got cruise control, 3rd rear headrest, heated seats and factory xenon's

I think the black one is a better car to start from scratch on as a project, plenty of optional extras that make the finished product better

I think the black one is a better car to start from scratch on as a project, plenty of optional extras that make the finished product better

Just a shame it isn't blue...haha. It is a nice car though.

trust m8 we own a m.o.t centre and have been through it for months ur more than welcome to have a go and we'll see how good you are!

You have a garage but did the engine rebuild outside on your drive??

If I wasn't stuck in hospital having cancer treatment I would gladly take a look at it

trust m8 we own a m.o.t centre and have been through it for months ur more than welcome to have a go and we'll see how good you are!

Trust Jim he would find it, his local reputation is exceedingly good and highly recommend. If I ever found I couldn't sort a fault on a VAG car he'd be the first person I'd go to.

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Jim's a top block, very handy with the spanners. But sounds like he should be taking it easy for a good few months.

Haha docs orders guys.. it's been a year now since I picked up a spanner but hopefully now I'm sorted having spent the last 3 weeks up here in the qe. But I love a challenge and it gives me something to do lol..

If Steve wants to send a pm with ALL the details of why how and when I'll gladly pick thru it and see what I come up with .. no promises mind.

takes a proper 1 to know 1....

 

ah dear. 

 

ill get my ten year old brother to think of some comebacks for you if you like  

ah dear.

ill get my ten year old brother to think of some comebacks for you if you like

LOL

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Oh dear oh dear oh dear

Normal order resumed lol

Haha docs orders guys.. it's been a year now since I picked up a spanner but hopefully now I'm sorted having spent the last 3 weeks up here in the qe. But I love a challenge and it gives me something to do lol..

If Steve wants to send a pm with ALL the details of why how and when I'll gladly pick thru it and see what I come up with .. no promises mind.

did pm you m8 but you can receive new messages

 

Hi jim heres what happened car was mapped by derv tech 279.8bhp and 370 torque within a month headgasket failed (twice on this block) I had a spare head which I had all 4 exhaust ports machined out 2mm each along with new valve stem seals, I had a good bottom end same engine code asz I took the old lump out and fitted modified head to my spare bottom end with head stud kit along with clutch turbo dssr 90 injectors, while engine was out I painted the bays white to match rest of the car I then refitted the engine it started on the button but seemed sluggish I then took it for a drive and it wouldn't rev past say 3100rpm you can hear turbo sucking through cone filter but as it goes to boost its like limp mode ive checked all vacuum pipes for leaks, changed the n75 checked the timing twice changed them cam checked the actuator is working changed crank sensor changed fuel filter and tandom pump and changed whole engine loom vehicle has no fault codes.

OK not sure why pm not coming thru?

Same injectors as before but fitted to new ported head yes?

Did you use new seals on them?

Rockers set correctly etc

I am wondering if it's flowing past the seals as the heads do wear sometimes.

1 check output flow from in tank pump.can't remember off hand but Google should find the spec.

2) maybe first really. Pipes on bulkhead to filter the right way round. Black fitting is supply blue return.

3. If both above ok. Filter piped to engine correctly?

Filter not blocked. Especially if pipework been disconnected to paint bay.. Lots of dust etc

4. If above is all good. Check the tandem pump pressure and flow. Again Google will bring up what to aim for..

I'm on crappy 3g here so ain't going to do it lol

No boost gauge?

Sounds very much like either the pipes are swapped on bulkhead or the filter is piped wrong/blocked but I don't know if all that's been checked already

If it's not putting a fault code in then it's a supply or mechanical problem..

As an aside I'd be interested to see a back to back power run with the ported head and original.

Oh just thought. . You set the injector angles correctly measuring from the side of the head Yeh?

.as you can tell I'm not sleeping well today lol but hopefully I'm home later

OK some ramblings bear with me the chemo gives me the brain of a 5 yr old at times.

Do you have Launch enabled and if so at what rpm. Jus thinking as I had a similar problem on the rally car it had no speed signal to the ecu so didn't go out of launch map.

Does it rev in neutral

Have you logged boost and airflow.. if so what's it doing (maybe faboka can answer that??)

Maybe if John's willing..log crank speed and cam speed and send the logs to John to graph just to check all is good..

Oh and you've changed the cam since it ran fine.. definitely sure that's not your problem? It is the one thing that is different to before.

checked fuel lines checked fuel pressure, new fuel filter put standard and upgraded cam in yes has launch control whitch it revs to no problem on the spot 3k rpm but when drive it and put cluctch down won't rev past 3300rpm seems like its holding back

Cam will be timed wrong, check crank angle at 1 mm lift against the spec. from NPS.

Just check that your ecu is receiving a speed signal in measuring blocks then.. could be that

This is the other thread about it.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/379412-300bhp-fabia-wont-rev-past-3200rpm/?fromsearch=1

Cam will be timed wrong, check crank angle at 1 mm lift against the spec. from NPS.

put upgraded cam in and swapped back to standard cam as I thought that was a possibility timing is spot on

OK some ramblings bear with me the chemo gives me the brain of a 5 yr old at times.

Do you have Launch enabled and if so at what rpm. Jus thinking as I had a similar problem on the rally car it had no speed signal to the ecu so didn't go out of launch map.

Does it rev in neutral

Have you logged boost and airflow.. if so what's it doing (maybe faboka can answer that??)

Maybe if John's willing..log crank speed and cam speed and send the logs to John to graph just to check all is good..

Oh and you've changed the cam since it ran fine.. definitely sure that's not your problem? It is the one thing that is different to before.

 

car revs fine and starts on button launch is 3k and revs to that no problem when its going if you dip the clutch and rev it it revs out at 3500rpm max cams been put back to standard still the same

Sounds like my van when I killed the new turbo, boosted well then a few weeks later dropped to 3500k then totally ran out of puff,

On my pulsar if you disconnect the maf plug the engine won't rev past 3k it goes straight into limp mode it **** me up the first time it happened. How do you know it's not a fault with the ecu itself?