Was there any threads with a step by step guide?

I Remeber someone saying you need plumbers gold but any guide for doing it for noobs?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/226475-fabia-door-carrier-seal-repair-illustrated/

 

Although to do it properly you really need to remove the carrier and all the old seal and then just use a decent bathroom sealant round it but depending what year your car is it will probably be riveted on all the way round which makes it a pain in the a***!

I did mine properly over 5 years ago and its still watertight (I know this cos I sold the car to brother-in-law and hes not moaned yet!!)

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/226475-fabia-door-carrier-seal-repair-illustrated/

Although to do it properly you really need to remove the carrier and all the old seal and then just use a decent bathroom sealant round it but depending what year your car is it will probably be riveted on all the way round which makes it a pain in the a***!

I did mine properly over 5 years ago and its still watertight (I know this cos I sold the car to brother-in-law and hes not moaned yet!!)

So it's the actual door and not the rubber seal on the body of the car that the door closes on? Fml I hate taking things off like in that guide.

So it's the actual door and not the rubber seal on the body of the car that the door closes on? Fml I hate taking things off like in that guide.

Yeah its not great fun!!  Its a job for when the suns out if youve not got a big garage!!

No need to take the carrier off. The official tried and tested repair is to seal over it. If you bond the carrier to the door and your regulator breaks you are going to have a hell of job getting it off without wrecking the door.

It's also f'in difficult to get the old foam seal off the back of the carrier, except where it's been well soaked. The main advantage of unbolting or unrivetting the carrier is that you can then disconnect and bin the black plastic bracket that links the door lock to the carrier.

I think this is the primary pathway for water to get directed down the back of the carrier. If you look at a photo of the back of a used rear carrier, they always seem to have a water mark running down from there.

Having said that, one rear carrier on ours has never been off, and the Plumber's Gold is holding out well. Thorough cleaning of the surfaces before sealing is advisable, and sealing at least halfway up the rear edge is required.

Edited 1 January, 201610 yr by Wino

No need to take the carrier off. The official tried and tested repair is to seal over it. If you bond the carrier to the door and your regulator breaks you are going to have a hell of job getting it off without wrecking the door.

Thats a very good point!! What I should have explained was that when I did mine (At that time could find no comprehensive guides on here) I unbolted the carrier as it was an old 51 plate TDI Elegance and removed the bottom half of the seal and re-sealed just that half as I didnt think the water could go up and leak from the top. If it needed to come off again a stanley blade would soon go round the bottom half of it, if it would not prise off from the top. If it had been riveted I would have thought twice and tried to bodge it as I cant remember anyone mentioning doing it with plumbers gold back in those days.

Personally I don't use Plumbers gold. I use the proper kit from Skoda and use the original technical bulletin. But then I charge for doing them so they have to be right and look nice and tidy. I'll say after 14 or so years of doing them I've got pretty good lol

Personally I don't use Plumbers gold. I use the proper kit from Skoda and use the original technical bulletin. But then I charge for doing them so they have to be right and look nice and tidy. I'll say after 14 or so years of doing them I've got pretty good lol

How much and where are you?

Tbf just sealing over the top sounds good to me, I'm lazy and although an SE, my paintwork is bad etc it's not a beauty.

How much and where are you?

Tbf just sealing over the top sounds good to me, I'm lazy and although an SE, my paintwork is bad etc it's not a beauty.

He is Malvern area

@Tech1e

Personally I don't use Plumbers gold. I use the proper kit from Skoda and use the original technical bulletin. But then I charge for doing them so they have to be right and look nice and tidy. I'll say after 14 or so years of doing them I've got pretty good lol

I have this problem also with my front driverside door, are you near London at all? Would be happy to drive acouple of hours to fix this problem as no one near me has any idea how to fix it. What kind of price are talking?

I'm near Worcester, I usually seal all four doors as per bulletin.

I ripped it off last night and sealed it, had a dehumidifier and heater in my car for like 7 hours yesterday and it's heavily improved.

Still damp carpet but not really any water.

Leaving towels etc in there for now hopefully it worked though.

I ripped it off last night and sealed it, had a dehumidifier and heater in my car for like 7 hours yesterday and it's heavily improved.

Still damp carpet but not really any water.

Leaving towels etc in there for now hopefully it worked though.

 

Heater on max to floor with AC recirculating or windows open a bit with just heat while driving (for a decent run) does a lot to get the last of it out. 

If you've got a garage use a hairdryer as you can then direct the hot air to dry the carpet out. Or remove the sound proofing as that holds a fair bit of water, dry it in the house and then use a hairdryer. Carpet doesn't take long to dry out.

If you've got a garage use a hairdryer as you can then direct the hot air to dry the carpet out. Or remove the sound proofing as that holds a fair bit of water, dry it in the house and then use a hairdryer. Carpet doesn't take long to dry out.

Will be sure to do that FUBAR thanks mate.

As for taking carpet out I looked and you have to take off loads of interior and I Cba for that, bad weather and I'm very impatient, if it does it again in paying someone to do it properly lol.

The sound proofing is easy to get out from the backs, then dry that out. It's literally seats out think it's a hex 8 socket, anyway hope you sort it out soon, nothing worse than trying to clear windscreen when you need to be somewhere else.