Hi can anyone help me please

I have a skoda 1.9 Sdi 2002 and it will drive to the moon and back with no problems if I drive at low revs and don't push it much past 60mph but when I come to a steep or long hill and have to gun it a bit, after a couple of hundred meters it starts to judder as if it's running out of fuel. If I press the clutch at this point it will cut and takes a while to get started again, but if I just tickle the throttle and keep it going until I get to the top of the hill and then just drive like a 100 year old man it will start driving fine again. While I'm tickling the throttle it will keep going but the revs seem to be going up and down even though I am keeping the peddle in the same place, if that makes sense.

I have changed all the filters but that hasn't cured it and I have also tried taking the fuel cap off and on before each journey in case it's not having enough air.

Another thing I've noticed is if the car is left for long periods of time (couple of hours) it starts fine, but if I just turn it off for a couple of minutes to run in a shop or something it takes a little longer to start.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Del.

Water in the fuel filter was my first thought. You've changed that, maybe think about draining it into a jam jar and looking what comes out?

Other thought is your timing belt has skipped a few teeth.

The default suggestion always has to be get it's fault codes read.

Has it always been this way or is it something that's recently started happening?

Water in the fuel filter was my first thought. You've changed that, maybe think about draining it into a jam jar and looking what comes out?

Other thought is your timing belt has skipped a few teeth.

The default suggestion always has to be get it's fault codes read.

Has it always been this way or is it something that's recently started happening?

I've had the car about 4 months and it's only just started happening, I've had an OBD2 put on it and there's no fault codes showing.

don't know but do a search to see if there's a gauze at the pump inlet   there was on 2.7 ford and terranos which was not officially there but caused several distributor pumps to be conndemmed when in fact were blocked with "fluff"     start on a bosch tec site 

Yep sounds like the in tank swirl pot is full of gunk.

It's under the drivers side rear seat take note of the pipe position before you remove it too.

Carefully dismantle it without breaking too many plastic clips and make sure there is nothing in the outlet pipe as sludge will build up around the non return valve

Thank you very much for the suggestions guys I will give it a try over the next few days and keep you posted. I also wanted to mention, it may be a coincidence but I think this problem has only started occurring since I discovered the lid on fuel tank under the back seat was quite loose. I filled the tank recently and had fuel leaking from under the car. I checked and found out the lid was quite loos so I am now wondering if the previous owner had loosened it?

prob'ly they're pretty tight first time out

Sludge.... Anyone been running it on Bio-diesel or veg oil by any chance?

Thank you very much for the suggestions guys I will give it a try over the next few days and keep you posted. I also wanted to mention, it may be a coincidence but I think this problem has only started occurring since I discovered the lid on fuel tank under the back seat was quite loose. I filled the tank recently and had fuel leaking from under the car. I checked and found out the lid was quite loos so I am now wondering if the previous owner had loosened it?

Ah sounds like someone has been in there before then. Make sure the pipes aren't kinked and that the arrow on the top is facing the arrow on the tank too.

Ah sounds like someone has been in there before then. Make sure the pipes aren't kinked and that the arrow on the top is facing the arrow on the tank too.

I've taken the fuel pump out and I can't find any swirl pot or filters that seem blocked. I've found the arrows you mentioned but can't seem to grasp what you mean by lining them up, could you please elaborate a bit more.

regards.

I've found the arrows you mentioned but can't seem to grasp what you mean by lining them up, could you please elaborate a bit more.

regards.

 

The arrows on the pump and tank must line up like this...

 

Thank you so much for all the help people, I've had the fuel pump out of the tank and I can't see any other filters. As for the arrows (on the diagram anove) I found the one on the inside of the cap but can't find the one on the tank to line it up with. The only other arrow I can find is on the plastic cover that the wire goes through, which is labelled as number 1 on the diagram. As a result I have admitted defeat and booked the car in to soda for diagnostic testing. Once again thank you all for the suggestions.

Thank you so much for all the help people, I've had the fuel pump out of the tank and I can't see any other filters. As for the arrows (on the diagram anove) I found the one on the inside of the cap but can't find the one on the tank to line it up with. The only other arrow I can find is on the plastic cover that the wire goes through, which is labelled as number 1 on the diagram. As a result I have admitted defeat and booked the car in to soda for diagnostic testing. Once again thank you all for the suggestions.

I previously had the car checked with an OBD2 computer and it wasn't showing any fault codes. I had it really checked today and it is showing a fault for engine temperature coolant sensor. Could this possibly be the fault? Any suggestions?

I changed mine yesterday (sdi) and even when faulty I didn't get any cutting out but it can effect the engine.

Basically the ecu is told the engine is cold and compensates with additional fuel pressure.

In my case, this just meant an odd hot-start behaviour and high idle speed but even this was only occasional - all gone since new sensor.

For your symptoms I would think it is caused by something else though it cant hurt to fix the temp sensor and it isn't hard to do.

If it has been run on bio there may be residual muck in the fuel system as has been suggested and times of high flow may mean this starts to cause an impediment. Even the fuel injector pump can be effected - there are phots on the web. Short of a strip down I can only suggest use of a diesel cleaning agent run through the tank.

I previously had the car checked with an OBD2 computer and it wasn't showing any fault codes. I had it really checked today and it is showing a fault for engine temperature coolant sensor. Could this possibly be the fault? Any suggestions?

it could be even better if you can log it's values from cold and see a constant steady increase- as it warms up------you are sure it's coolant as there is, (I believe) a FUEL temp sensor in the pump which is replaceable without the expense of a complete pump

I took the car to skoda today for diagnosis and they were unable to find a fault as the battery was "worn out". I bought a new battery there and then but they were unable to retest as they said it had to be booked in again. I drove the car home and it is still the same, so at least i know the battery is not the issue. I have re-booked it now for next week and I have also ordered a new engine temp sensor to try in the mean time. Once again, Thank you all for the suggestions and I will keep you all posted.

I changed the engine temp sensor yesterday and the problem is still there. Im at a loss, It has to be the fuel pump doesn't it?

Another thing I've noticed is since I changed the battery, the driver window doesn't go up or down automatically with a flick of the switch. I now have to hold the switch until it is all the way up (or down)

Another thing I've noticed is since I changed the battery, the driver window doesn't go up or down automatically with a flick of the switch. I now have to hold the switch until it is all the way up (or down)

 

That is normal after disconnecting the battery. You just need to reset the one touch function as follows...

 

With the window in the fully up position pull and hold the window switch into the up position again, you should hear a small click from the motor.

One touch is now set for that window.

 

Edited 31 January, 201610 yr by TMB

It is looking like the pump unfortunately Yeh.

Would it be feasible to run fuel pipes from the inlet and return sides of the pump end of the bosch fuel injection pump to a conveniently located "petrol can" holding 5 litre of diesel so as to bypass virtually the whole pipe/filter/tank arrangement - just for a test run. Replacing the injection pump is not a trivial matter.