# # #     Including how to remove the door cards and the window regulator carrier     # # #

 

In order to get the best out of my speaker upgrade, I decided to apply sound deadening material to the door skins.  This entailed removing the door card and window carrier to gain access to the internals so whilst stripping down the doors, I took photos to create this step by step guide.  This guide shows the driver’s door but the front passenger door is the same expect for removing the grab handle (to be covered in a later post).

 

To remove the driver’s door card:

1 – To remove the door card, prise off door grab handle cover with a flat blade screwdriver inserted into the slot as shown below.

2 – Remove the door mirror control/tweeter cover with a trim removal tool (I used a 6” steel rule) then disconnect the electrical connector. 

3 – Release the electric window switch pack by inserting a flat blade screwdriver under the lip as shown below and gently pushing inwards to release the tab before lifting then disconnecting the electrical connector.

4 – Prise the red door open warning light out of the door card and release the electrical connector.

5 – Unscrew the various fixings: two T-30 screws in the grab handle, two T-15 torx screws along the lower edge of the door, one T-15 screw next to the tweeter.  The positions are shown below:

6 – Pull/lever the door card off starting at the lower corner next to the speaker.  The card is secured by three plastic clips along each side.  Before lifting the door card off the window sealing strip, reach behind and release the alarm flashing LED in line connector (covered by a foam sleeve).

7 - Lift the door card off the window strip, then reach behind to release the tweeter speaker connector (covered by a foam sleeve) and unclip the door opening cable by releasing the locking tab before sliding off.

 

To remove the window regulator carrier:

1 – To remove the door electronic control module, push the top fixing tab vertically down and unclip the unit off of the door then remove the two rubber covers.

2 – Reconnect the window switch pack, turn the ignition on and lower the window until the clamp screws are visible as shown:

3 – Unscrew the T-30 torx screws approximately 5 turns and raise the window to the closed position.  Holding the glass, press the lower window switch to release the glass from the clamps and fully lower the regulator then turn the ignition off.

4 – Either wedge or tape the glass in position so it does not fall.

5 – Disconnect the window motor connector and unscrew the six T-30 torx screws around the edge of the carrier then withdraw the carrier by pushing it inwards, rotating through 90 degrees and feeding it out through the aperture. 

 

Sound deadening:

To reduce door panel vibrations, I opted for Silent Coat 2mm thick damping mat and to absorb reflections from door panel behind the woofer speaker, I fitted Skinz Sound Wave Diffuser acoustic foam.  The advantage of the Skinz product is that it is a water resistant closed cell foam recommended for door cavities. 

As shown in the photo above, the two diagonal metal sections are the side impact bars which are bonded to the outer door panel.  It is necessary to work around these when applying the sound deadening mat and acoustic foam.

As I was installing new speakers, to make access easier for installing the damping mat, I removed the existing OEM speakers.

1 - Disconnect the electrical connector then drill out the pop rivets heads using a 5mm drill as shown and remove the speaker with its integral spacer (you may need to prise it off the rivet stubs).

2 – Use large pliers to squeeze the deformed rivets back to cylindrical and remove from the door frame.

3 – I made cardboard templates as cutting guides for the damping mat as the passenger door mats would be a mirror image.  Before installing the mats, ensure the panels are clean and dry – degrease with methylated spirits.  Once cut to size, gently warm both the door panel and adhesive side of the mat with a hot air gun (or hair drier) to improve adhesion.  Peel a short section of backing sheet from the mat, position and stick down.  Gently peel the backing sheet off whilst pushing the mat down to prevent air bubbles.  If available, use a wall paper edge roller to ensure good contact with the panel.

4 – To absorb sound reflected back off the door panel behind the woofer speaker, fix a sheet of acoustic foam to the outer panel directly behind the speaker. The Skinz Sound Wave Diffuser is a self adhesive 250mm square sheet but as the side impact bar crosses behind the speaker, I cut the foam into sections and slotted it either side of the bar and in the profiling.

5 – As shown in the photo above, I also applied the damping mat on the inner panel around the speaker. The photo also shows the Connects2 CT25VW07 speaker adaptors (lined with sound deadening material to improve rigidity) which are fixed to the door panel using 6mm screws and nyloc nuts through the existing mounting holes.  Fitting the adaptors before refitting the carrier is easier with improved access to the nuts.  Remember to cut a hole in the side of the adaptor for the speaker cable to pass through.

6 – For completeness I also applied sound deadening mat (a different material) to the inside surface of the window regulator carrier.

7 – Initially, I’m replacing the OEM speakers with a set of Infinity 6500cs components which have seen service in my previous cars.  The 165mm diameter woofer fixes into the speaker adaptors with self tapping screws and connected to the existing wiring with butt crimp sleeves after cutting off the OEM speaker connector.  I’m planning to install the Infinity tweeters (and cross-overs) in a different location to the OEM ones but more on that in a later post.

After refitting the carrier and door card by reversing the above instructions, the doors now close with a reassuring dull thud.  Even running the OEM tweeters without the cross-over, the sound is clearer with stronger bass.  I can turn the volume up much higher without distortion or the doors vibrating.  It can only improve when I add the Infinity tweeters and cross-overs.

 

Cheers,

Andrew

 

The first two pictures have proved very useful to me today. :clap:

 

Many thanks for the post.

 

 

 

Steve.

Just the job! I need to remove the drivers door card to repair the arm rest as it's cracked, now I know how to take the card off (and I may as well add sound deadening and new speakers while I'm in there!).

Thanks for the post!

Did you find a reasonable noise reduction after using the sound deadning material

On 2016-01-01 at 23:30, humsk said:

 

 

humsk

Like many on this forum I have broken wires in the drivers door hinge and need to remove the door card.

Thanks for your nice instructions on removing the front door card. I do, however, fail already on step 1. I feel that so much force is needed to prise off the handle that I am afraid breaking the thing and this is after releasing the locking mechanism with a screwdriver as you describe.

Could you please elaborate a bit on this step.

Thanks in advance

H

Hi Hakelm,

The handle does need a strong pull to remove it. Try warming the handle with a hot air gun/hair drier to make the plastic more flexible.  Whilst levering it also pull at the top of the handle directly away from the door.

 

Hope this helps ...

 

Cheers, 

Andrew

On 2016-01-01 at 23:30, humsk said:

 

 

Thanks a lot. Will try it tomorrow

Håkan

I am still stuck with my door card. With some hot air the handle came off nicely but I can't find the upper T-30 screw. There is only some kind of black plastic cap with a hole, see attached picture. The cap sits on some kind of hinge but can't be removed or moved up and down more than a few millimeters. I can't see or find any screw behind the hole.

Do you have any idea how to tackle this?

Håkan

The cap can be removed with a bit of hot air and some force. Behind the cap the missing T-30 can be found. I prised it from below with a screwdriver and a somewhat too large force so it broke. Some thermal glue healed it. If you are doing this prise from the top.

 

Im fixing the electric loom and found out how to get off the handle after braking a piece.

This is how to get it out without braking anything:

First you need to push on this tab (pic after removal):

 

 

Second pic on why you need to push in the tab:

 

 

This is where you pusch the tab:
 

 

This is what I broke bcause I didnt pcuh the tab:

 

Needed to take one more pic for clarity:

 

Thank you for this comprhensive post on removing the door cards. I particularly need help with item 3 for the window switch, but can't see any of the photos you say are included. Which end do I need to prise to get the switch out?

Thank you for this, very helpful